Ask Dave

Have a Question for an Expert Plumber?

Welcome to ASK DAVE, our exciting new question-and-answer column.

Do you have plumbing questions? Do you need plumbing advice? This is the place to get answers to plumbing questions, big or small.

Just post your questions here below on our ASK DAVE column, and David Parker, master plumber and president of ER Services, will answer questions and give advice.

Dave will be covering questions about:

  • Plumbing brands and products
  • Plumbing services
  • Plumbing maintenance issues
  • Who to hire to perform specific services
  • What kinds of plumbing jobs are safe to tackle on your own
  • Plumbing How-To questions and DIY plumbing projects

Feel free to ask questions about:

  • Hot water heaters
  • Water filtration systems
  • Garbage disposals
  • Washing machines
  • Dishwashers
  • Toilets, showers and bathtubs
  • Leak detection and repair
  • Drain clearing
  • Pipe work
  • Sewer and water line installation and repair
  • Gas logs installation

We want to answer your questions so you can make educated decisions as you tackle your plumbing projects and concerns.

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775 comments on “Ask Dave

    • David Parker on

      Hey Tracy, it's really not a difficult task to change a fill valve and you can find some great You Tube videos if trying to tackle yourself. The cost to do it would be dependent on who you call, model, and age of toilet, but you could save a bunch doing it yourself if a standard toilet.

      Reply
  1. Sherrie on

    I am writing from Canada so I am quite sure you won't be coming out to work on my plumbing problems. I have a spring that feeds my house, it's a concrete tank and a considerable drop from the tank to the house. When I run the cold water kitchen only on the coldest days the faucet whistles, it did it yesterday but nothing today as it is a little warmer. Could you please tell me what causes this. It's an older house so all the piping is copper. It's been doing it for years, even after I replaced the cartridges. Thank you for any suggestion you can give me.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Sherrie, If the whistling only happens in the colder weather, it may be partial freezing of the line if the sink backs up to an exterior wall. Often, the whistling occurs because water is not flowing freely through the aerator. This results in the whistling sound. To check the aerator, unscrew the piece from the spout. Look for any calcium or mineral build-up on the aerator. I would also make sure the washer in my angle stops which shut the water off and located under the cabinet are good working condition they tend to get brittle and can clog the water lines or travel into the cartridges causing obstructions or noises. I would think the noise would be present all the time so that why I'm wondering if something needs insulated better if only in cold weather. You can take the head off the faucet if single handle with spray and see if it makes noises just running water through the hose.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  2. Kimberly Lynch on

    We would like to have you replace 2 of our toilets as we would like them to be higher. What brand/type do you recommend and is elongated/round just a personal preference? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kimberly, I'm sorry for the late reply my system hasn't been alerting me when someone has a question. We like the Kohler Cimarron or Gerber Avalanche, and both toilets come in comfort height hope that helps.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Scott, I don't know anything about the Source One patch kit to offer any opinion sorry to say. We use the Perma Liner system for all our sewer line repairs/relining and very happy with the process.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  3. Jud White on

    Hello. My wife and I just retired and downsized to a 1500 sq. ft. 2 person 2 bath house built in 2008. It's on well water with a ph of 6.3 and hardness of 3.0 gpg. The water tastes good but there was a blue stain on floor from dripping faucet on one of the bathroom showers when we moved in. We cleaned it up and the faucet itself and the staining seems to be gone or reduced a lot as we don't let it drip. There are no other blue stains at other faucet areas in house sinks or toilets. I was told I have PEX plumbing throughout house. We have a house sediment filter (Culligan HF-360A, 10 inch) that has never been very dirty when I change it. I'm trying to decide on whether to replace the sediment filter with a 10 in. calcite drop in filter (AMI H-F2510CALCITE) I found online to reduce the ph. A local plumber has told me that the once blue stain could have come from brass fittings, but he also wanted me to consider a 4 ft. calcite container at a total cost of $3800. Should I try the 10 in. drop in calcite filter, or not really worry about all this. I'm just trying to be proactive. I'm considering a status quo. Thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jud,
      The plumber is right you could be having the stain from the possible brass fitting deterioration. The ph level is concerning and we would like to see a neutralizer on the house to get it back to a neutral reading to help prevent corrosion and the leaching of metals. The calcite would bring it up a point and help your fixtures and appliances from premature failures with your current acidic water. The neutralizer will probably raise the hardness, so we like to follow it up with a softener. I don't think the AMI H-F2510CALCITE filter is a long-term solution without buying multiple cartridges throughout the year. The average household usage for one person is 60-gallons a day so a family of three per year would put you at 65,700 and your capacity duration on the filter is 8,486 gallons.

      Hope this helps!
      Dave

      Reply
  4. Lee Gilman on

    This is Lee Gilman in Quail Hollow Estates. Steven Anderson and his assistant Sam visited 27 Apr 2023 to gather information for a quotation on replacing shut off valves. I paid the site visit fee of $95.45 using my personal credit card. I need a copy of the paid invoice for this to submit to our Homeowners Association to get reimbursed. Please email to lee.gilman@gmail.com. Thanks

    Reply
  5. Gary Nemec on

    Hello,

    I have a Rinnai tankless water heating. I wanted to know if I could have a recirculating pump installed and how much it would cost.

    Thanks,

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Gary, We can certainly help you, but would need some more information if you could give us a call. I have our number attached below.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  6. TOMMY W & REBECCA D MORRISON on

    I have low water pressure from my well system and i want to install booster pump. Do you handle this type of work? I was looking at a Grunfos EZ Boost system. Please call to discuss 704-572-3632. Thanks.

    Reply
  7. Jud White on

    Hello. I just bought and moved into a home built in 2008. It has a well water supply and there was a whole house filter being used to remove sediment (Culligan HF-360A). The house is only 1500 sq ft. I recently noticed there was blue stain below a shower faucet when dripping. This is the only faucet i see blue stain and I have run my bathroom faucets slowly for days during extreme cold and no blue stain. I did check my pH and it was around 6.5. I had thought copper pipes generally were replaced with some form of plastic years ago, but I want to be proactive and not end up with a pin hole leak in the future. I also don't like crawling under the house. I'm considering putting in a calcite filter cartridge in to replace the fine sediment one to increase the pH, which when last changed was not very dirty after 4 months. Do you recommend this and also I wonder why I get blue stain at only one faucet. Thanks, Jud

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jud,

      The water is slightly acidic at 6.5 with 7 being neutral. If you see green or blue stains in your fixtures, the culprit is probably corrosion of your plumbing, which is leaching copper into your water. Corroded copper turns blue/green. This problem is often caused by low pH water, which eats away at copper pipes and fittings. I would recommend a neutralizer like you said but may increase hardness so may want to follow that up with a water softener. I'm just guessing you are on a private well system.

      Dave

      Reply
  8. Wade Hobgood on

    I moved into a new home last August. I have discovered that the septic drain line was pitched in the wrong direction making one of the bathrooms unusable and the master bath toilet barely functional only when the septic drain line cap is removed. The house is on a concrete slab. Studer vents have been added to the sinks. Any suggestions other than tearing out the floor?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Wade,

      We would have to look at it to see if you have any other options and that would require running the camera. I don't know of anything you could do from your statement, but worth getting another opinion.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  9. bill williams on

    my house has cast iron pipe from 1964 , i had a clog in my sewer line had a company to come out and give me a quote. then it was 2 days before they got back to me . to do the job . they fixed the problem and the tells me that it needs to have more work done on it . they quoted me price that made me lay down $$$$. im looking for a quote for a reline and to fixes some other plumbing this for me . im not a plumber forsure. i live in lancaster sc and i hope to here for you soon
    Thanks Bill

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bill, We can certainly help you with that but would require us to camera the line. It would help to see what the other contractor is saying you need as well to see if we agree. I would call the office and ask to speak to Thomas who runs the pipe lining division. I have our number attached below for you.

      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  10. Meghan holloway on

    Hi,
    Do you install corro protec powered anode rods in lowboy warmer heater? We had a water heater installed by you in march 2022 and are interested in installing a powered anode, is this a service your staff will perform for us? What is the cost for this installation of powered rod?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Meghan,
      We can defiantly install this for you just not something we have in stock, and you would need power near for a plug within 12ft.

      Reply
  11. Timothy Goldbach on

    Dave,
    Thanks for the response. Your previous response was
    We do offer Tankless Service which includes a deep cleaning of exchanger, cleaning blower, igniter, incoming filter. I would call the office and talk to the customer service reps to get a ballpark by letting them know where it is installed.
    Unfortunately the person in the office would not provide any pricing. I understand the technician will provide a price before they do any work. However you must know the base price to do routine preventative maintenance as described above. Maybe once you are back in the office you will be able to advise. I'd rather not pay a trip charge and tie up a technician if the price is above what I am willing to pay.
    Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Timothy, I talked to my staff this morning. The average price is $335.00 for the Tankless Maintenance plus the $69.00 dispatch fee. The price is according to you having service valves on your unit already when the unit was installed and
      inspected.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  12. Timothy Goldbach on

    Dave,
    I called the office but they were unable to provide a base price. The only price they would provide was the trip charge. They stated the price would only be provided by the technician once they were at the house. Would you be able to provide base price information? Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Timothy, I hope you had a nice Thanksgiving! I'm out of town so don't have our pricing book, but its based on what's needed after the technician sees what he has to be performed. The tech will give the price upfront before doing anything and needs your approval before performing any task. I guess you could ask the customer service rep if you could talk to a tech or service manager just to see if that helps you with you issue before having us out?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  13. Susan Tovar on

    Dear Dave,
    I am with a condo association and we have very much appreciated your help on a number of ocassions. You are very efficient, knowledgeable, and professional in all aspects.
    We have 13 units. We are on well water. When one unit needs to turn off the water in their unit, all water must be turned off. This is just background information for my real question.
    When our electricity goes out, our septic system shuts down and the sewage begins to accumulate in the condo with the lowest elevation. It begins to fill the shower then toilet etc.
    I recently heard there is such a thing as a "Back Flow Valve" that can prevent such occurences.
    Is this true and can it work to stop this from happening? And would we need more than one Back Flow Valve or just for the unit at the lowest elevation?
    Any advice would be greatly appreicated and would like to know if you install these valves?
    Thank you.
    Susan Tovar
    Baraka Place Condominium Association

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Susan, The Backwater valve is something that is used to prevent the city backing up into the building if they had an issue in the street and you're at a lower level compared to the upstream manhole. I think what you have is a sewer lift station that when you lose power the pumps stop working which would overflow near the pit or get to a height that creates problems in the lower units. I would think a Building Generator would be a better long-term solution if on a lift station which would transfer in power outages but still work the station. The unit owners will probably still use water in case of an outage which still can cause backups when everything is tied in together on common lines or just seek another area to release the flow.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  14. R Boyd on

    Hello, we have a lowboy 30 year old (or more) old water heater in our attic that somehow we would like to have removed as it is just sitting and taking up limited space. There is about 1/2 to an inch we are lacking in trying to get it through the attic ladder door.

    Is there a way to get it out of there safely? Too scared to try and cut it up due to fire hazard...

    Do you guys do anything like removing old ones like this? If so, how and approx cost?

    Thank you!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Good morning,
      We have had to get contractors to remove and replace attic pull down doors at times to accommodate replacing or just plain removing. I don't have a price for that it's done based on other contractors getting involved which we have them bill homeowner. I agree on being careful when cutting it the attic if you attempt to remove the jacket of the heater.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  15. Timothy Goldbach on

    I have a Rinnai RL94i Tankless Water Heater that was put in service in January 2020. I am interested in a preventative maintenance service call. According to the Rinnai website you are a registered as a Ace Pro. Is this correct? Do you provide this service? Can you provide a list of what is included in preventative service for this unit. I am located in Indian Land. What would be the base charge to complete this work. Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Timothy,
      We do offer Tankless Service which includes a deep cleaning of exchanger, cleaning blower, igniter, incoming filter. I would call the office and talk to the customer service reps to get a ballpark by letting them know where it is installed.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  16. Jacqueline Levin on

    If a transformers goes on a mulligan water system who is responsible for the repair?? Who should pay?? I was under the impression that since it's their equipment then they should take care of it and maintain it. Am I correct?
    I'm an 80 year old woman who knows nothing about transformers but don't want to be taken by someone who knows I know nothing. Appreciate your help.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jacqueline,
      I'm not sure I understand the issue, but any parts would be warrantied up to a year on most occasions and labor as well if the part failed in that year. I would think the company would have a warranty rep that takes care of any manufacture defects.

      Dave

      Reply
  17. Cameron Johnson on

    Looking to see if you all are able to repair a pipe that is 4' underground that has collapse. Looking to see if you are able to use CIPP technology and could i possibly obtain a quote for scheduling of work. This pipe is about 30' long and 4" diameter. If there is anyway you guys could have someone come take a look before actually scheduling the work that would be great.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Cameron, I'm just seeing your question. We do offer CIPP repairs with our Perma Liner technology and would defiantly recommend a service call to see if you're a candidate if you haven't repaired already.

      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Sara, I would call the office at the below number and give them your specifics to better help you. I have our number attached below if your in the Charlotte area.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  18. Mike Anselmi on

    I'm changing a 2.5" x 10" sediment water filter for a combi boiler system. Water entering the combi can be shut off just prior to the filter housing. After the filter housing there's a "T" with one water line going to the DHW and the other line for the baseboard heat. Both lines have a ball valve shut off. The housing "cap" does have an ON OFF and BYPASS setting. The filter housing does not have a pressure relief valve. What is the proper sequence of closing these valves and opening a water line (i.e. kitchen faucet) to remove pressure from the system?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      I would hope you would have a hose bib on the system if no pressure relief is present but send a picture if you like for me to walk you through it.

      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Stephanie, I'm sorry for the late reply was having a hard time logging in from home. I would have the main sewer line looked at it may need to be snaked to clear the line and possibly have a camera ran to make sure the issue is resolved. The water you may be seeing in the backyard may be coming from a cleanout not sure if your on city or a septic system. If your on septic the tank may be full and overflowing?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  19. Jerry Moore on

    Hi Dave, I want to have the fixtures and shower head replaced in my tub.The job may require removing and replacing tile around the spout and control handles. Do your folks do that kind of job? I could send you a picture if you like. Thank you.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jerry, We can replace the fixtures but don't replace tile or drywall. We just stick to the plumbing portion and would love to help if you need us and local to the area.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  20. Alishia Malcolm on

    I replaced my hot water knob on my bathtub and now when I turn it on I get ok pressure in the middle but if I turn it all the way on It looses pressure.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Alishia, It sounds like the cartridge is acting up if the handle is on correctly? If you take the handle off and turn the stem cartridge does it still loose pressure. You may have to try this with a pair of pliers being careful to not strip anything this will tell you if its a handle or cartridge issue.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  21. Scott Kerns on

    Good morning.

    You came out yesterday to look at providing a smoke test at Clean Juice, in our Quail Corners plaza, and we have confirmation from the business owner for a Thursday 7AM visit to complete this test. Are you able to accommodate this request?

    Thank you

    Scott Kerns

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Scott, I need you to call the office and talk to the call center to schedule the appointment if you could. I have our number below for you.

      Thanks,
      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  22. Lyn Dresle on

    Hi Dave,
    Thanks for answering my inquiry. It's usually when we turn it on... so its cold. I notice when I tape over the overflow drain, I don't smell it as strongly. We have city water and sewer--no well. The water heater is only a year old, but the water in Florida is just crap---excuse my French---so anything is possible. Even after our water is purified, there are more solids in it in Florida, than where we START in Rhode Island--- before we purify the water there...unbelievable. They said they can only take out so much---as it depends on what you are putting in. The irritating thing is it's just this sink--- out of the 7 sinks in the house. Go figure.

    Reply
  23. Lyn Dresle on

    We've been complaining about sulfur smell in one of our 2 bathroom sinks since moving into our new home last winter. We've tried everything--filling the sink with hot water so the water flows into the the overflow--with and without bleach. Tried vinegar same thing. Poured bleach, vinegar and baking soda down the drain-not together! My husband took the entire drain assembly out and cleaned the inside of the p-trap, there wasn't anything there---still sulfur small in his sink and not mine. We have a whole house purification system, and this is the only sink with the problem.
    Water tests fine. Any ideas?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Lyn, I would want to know if the smell is more present in the hot or cold water line and only when your running the faucet or always? When you notice the smells only from the hot water faucets, it probably means the hot water tank is contaminated. You can flush and clean the tank yourself with hydrogen peroxide ; sometimes, the remedy involves replacing the anode rod. I am guessing you have a well water system and bacteria issue, but would think the smell would be from all fixtures and that doesn't appear to be the case.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  24. Richard on

    Looking for a plumber to replace pipes inside and outside of home while removing us from the septic system and hook up to the city sewer. I am submitting payment to Charlotte Water for a Water Tap. We have city water, just not city sewer.
    Costs?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Richard, I just got back from Florida visiting family for Easter. We would want to provide a site visit to provide an estimate! I have our number below for you to call and set up a date and time to walk it out with you.

      Thanks,
      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  25. bob whitaker on

    no hot water at kitchen sink i've changed both supply line valves, faucet cartridge the replaced kitchen faucet. hot water heater is at other end of house feeds first master bath then house bath then half bath then kitchen sink and dish washer , i let water run for 10 minutes or more then turned off cold water supply to faucet still had cold water i checked half bath very hot water when i did this i got luke warm water at kitchen faucet half bath is about 15' away. my wifes sister has lived here for about 18 months started having problems 6 months ago. renters in basement have no problem

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bob, It sounds like something is crossed in the water distribution system. I would shut the hot water valve off and see if water stops coming out of the hot side of any faucet. The water should stop flowing on that side if you shut the valve off and if it is continuing to run you need to trace down where its crossed or improperly connected. The thing here is if she had hot water and all of a sudden it stops what has taken place during those months? Any renovations from the renters?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  26. Walt Hauck on

    We have a 5 year old new home. Recently noticed significant scale buildup on the fittings of the hot water side of the Pex water manifold. Had the well water tested. PH is 7.1, calcium at 31 mg/l, hardness 109, things look as expected, not too hard. So what is the needed action? Install a water softener and replace the fittings?

    Thanks for taking the question. Happy to share pics and the water test report if that helps.

    Reply
  27. J. Young on

    After a toilet clog or two and a slow draining shower, a plumber sent a camera through the sewer line to the street. He said the cast iron sewer piping has tree roots invading them plus the pipe has developed a "belly" under the slab of my home and there is standing water in it. I've been told the entire sewer line needs to be replaced from the street to inside my home and that the floors need to be jackhammered since I'm on a slab and some walls and ceilings need to be removed as well. Can't this be done with a trenchless system, and is that something you do? Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Good Morning, I would personaly start with the tree root issue before doing anything else under the structure of the house and see how that goes. We dont have enough information to tell you where the stoppage is located, but if outside before it clears deal with the roots. In regards to the belly under the structure lining is not meant to remove it, but will smooth the pipe if cast-iron and would flow better. We personaly do not perform trenchless technologies at this time.

      Thanks

      Reply
  28. Kevin Hopkins on

    Dave, I've got a question about my gas fireplace logs in our condo. The condo was built in 2004 and we're the second owners.

    The propane gas supply line to our unvented logs enters the firebox on the right hand side, and has the appropriate shut-off valve installed on the wall by the fireplace. The log set is designed so that the gas input is on the left side. When installed, they ran a flexible gas line around the back wall of the firebox and then made a 180 degree turn into the log set. The tubing seems to be intact and not damaged from the heat of frequent fires in the fireplace over the years, but I'm wondering if this type of installation would be against code? I've got the original installation instructions for both the log set and the firebox and nothing is mentioned about this... any thoughts appreciated.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kevin, You can run a copper gas line to the appliance and done frequently in are area and up to code. I will say a gas flex connector is another connection highly used so can't go wrong with either.

      Reply
  29. Terry D King on

    Hi Dave
    In the article "Problems with PEX Pipes with Brass Fittings", related to "dezincification", the article says "the leaching of zinc causes a white residue to build up inside the pipes". I'm seeing white residue is my plumbing. My question is... If I test my white residue to determine it's chemical composition, and if the root cause is dezincification, what should the test results show?
    Thanks

    Reply
  30. Bob Austin on

    I have an Aqua comfort heat pump 11 years old. 30amps. Heats a 16x32 pool. It reads 95.5 but I know my water is around 85. It’s an electric pump. Any idea as to what it could be that is giving me a false reading. ?They are trying to sell me a new pump for around $3,200.

    Reply
  31. Eric Borden on

    Good Morning!

    I had just come across your company as we are looking to partner with a plumbing expert to take on new and existing plumbing work at commercial properties scattered throughout the Charlotte area.
    We have over 100 customers ranging from small retailers, department stores, banks, large warehouses and more.

    We are hopeful in finding a company who prides themselves in delivery efficient, quality service and who offers quick response time and strong communication.

    If you have any interest at all, please send me more information on the background of your company, your capabilities and rates to:

    eborden@broadwaynational.com
    631-737-3140 x 476

    Thank you,

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Eric, We perform quite a bit of facility maintenance so helping your organization would be what were accustomed to doing on a daily basis. I will send you an email

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  32. Howrd Affinito on

    I have air in my water line and can't seem to get rid if it even though I have purged the system 2 times and replaced all of the fill valves on the toilets. I have city water and have never had this problem before the last couple of weeks. Defiantly on the cold side and maybe on the hot. I have a gas water heater. Any suggestions

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Howrd,
      I would check and see if your municipality is working on your neighborhood’s water lines, it’s the same story. Air’s been introduced into the system. I would ask my neighbors if they are having the same issue to help pinpoint if this if your issue or city. If you have a well, a similar condition can occur, though wells introduce complexities that transcend the scope of this article, with issues ranging from pump interruptions to drought, and it’s best to consult a professional for instances like this.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  33. Phyllis Kluttz on

    I'm the store manager at Safenest storage in Stanfield NC. I'm in need of a quote for clearing a clogged storm water drain on the property if you service this area. I can send pictures if needed.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Phyllis, We service the area if within 25-30 miles of our office which you should be we are right at 485 and Albamarle. We have pressure jet trucks that help clear storm drains and would definatly like a pictuire if you wanted to send with all your information to. service@erplumbing.com

      Reply
  34. Robert Lepak on

    Dave,
    I'll be relocating down to Nc at the end of the month for family reasons. I do sales for a sewer line repair and replacement company in Pennsylvania. Sales exceeded $2M last year and most recently last month was $250K with over 40% close rate. Just in last 3 days I'm over $50K of new sales with an 83% close rate. Do you have any use for someone with my experience in sewer line repair/replacement within your company?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Robert, Please email me and give me more information than the numbers if you can to better understand your background. We have an application online or just use my email to submit. We definatly replace sewer lines and provide full plumbing service to our clients.

      dparker@erplumbing.com

      Reply
  35. Emily on

    Hi Dave,

    We just moved into a rental home and noticed that when we run the washing machine, the toilets gurgle and the water levels drop to almost empty in the toilet. The toilet flushed normally last night and early this morning, but now it will not fully flush. It fills with water but cannot flush all the way. We never had any issues the first few days we had moved in, only once we ran the washing machine (yesterday). How costly is the repair and how quickly can it be diagnosed?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Emily, It sounds like you have a main line stoppage and need a plumber to snake the line to clear an obstruction. The washer will usually make the issue more prominent because it is a pump discharge. The plumber may need to pull the toilet to clear the line unless you havea cleanout outside. I would look and see if you do and unscrew the plug to stop sewer from coming in the house if it backs up. I would also camera the line to make sure no roots or break are present so it does not happen again and can be quoted if a repair is needed.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  36. Leonardo Martinez on

    Hello Mr. David, hope you are doing great! My question is regarding a well water with low pressure and bad filtration system. The current filtering system seems not to be working anymore. This was installed about 4-5 years ago, but they did a bad job and never received any further maintenance since then. This is at my dad house which there is city water already but would like to know our best option if he made the decision to fix the current water system or switch to city water about $3000.00 for installation + start paying a monthly bill. Any help you can provide it will be really appreciate. God Bless!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Leonardo, The well water sounds as if its struggling with pressure and sediment. The thing with well water which i have as well is your responsable for your own system and should be tested every year. I would say well water can be more expensive in the long run if maintained properly. My water was at a 5.6 PH level which is very acidic and caused my system to deteriorate the previous homeowner never had a proper filtration installed for my paticular system. I have several things installed on mine which include neutralizers, carbon, softener, and uv bulb. I'm just stating you have to maintain all this and gets costly unless you have a perfect water and sediment is the only issue and the only way of knowing is a water quility test. I would probably steer you towards city water because you will would know what your getting especially if you have to pay a bunch to maintain or fix the well after testing should you decide..

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  37. Karn on

    Hello Dave,

    I'm using Schluter Kerdi presloped shower pan n drain, over concreted floor. The 2" pipe is there already. I ripped out an acrylic surround. Can I put the pan to tile directly on the concrete floor?

    Reply
  38. Wilhelmina Brewer on

    I had a leak in a pipe along my sewage pump and the pit need a cover, The leak was stopped but the cover that was replaced did not fit and now I hear a loud knocking noise when the pump comes on, The pump is working ok. Do you think a new lid would stop the knocking or do I need to have the entire pit?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Wilhelmina, The knocking sounds like the check valve on the discharge pipe. I do not feel the lid will stop the noise and would look more into the drain line leaving the pit with the check valve. I do however feel the pit cover should be replaced or the entire pit to be sealed properly.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  39. bob wolff on

    this will probably be a first time question....I live in Easton, Pa. Our house heating system is hot water baseboard with an oil fired boiler.....our hw is fed from the boiler.....our hw starts really hot then goes to warm while we shower (you've probably seen that already)....I could replace the entire boiler and add a separate hw tank with a circulator....however what would the issue be to add another hw heater (electric or propane) being fed from the current hw coil from the boiler? I believe I'd need to install an expansion tank between the coil and the new hw? I'd also add a temperature mixing valve to the outlet of the hw heater.....this should allow for reducing the initial super hot water coming from the boiler coil, and the new heater shouldn't need to do much work.
    any remarks? Thanks, Bob
    Stay Safe!!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bob, Thanks for your question, but this application is not in our wheelhouse of work we perform and want to make sure your being informed properly. I would reach out to your local plumber or heating and air company.
      Blessing,
      Dave

      Reply
  40. Cheri Arrington on

    We live in Stanfield, NC (about 15 miles east of Charlotte) off Albemarle Rd.in Stanly County.
    We have a septic tank that is on it's last leg. The town of Stanfield put in a sewer line about 20 years ago that we will now need to tie in to. The previous homeowners had the opportunity to take advantage of that option when the line was first installed, but sadly they did not. They could have tied in for $350. Now we're looking at spending $6000 just to tie in (not including a plumber's fee).
    We have been told that the pressure is to low for a gravity fed line. A grinder pump was installed when the sewer line was initially installed but was never used. We will have to have a plumber lay pipe from the existing pipe leading to the septic tank, to the grinder pump, and from there to the sewer line at the street. Is this something you can help us with, and if so, can we get someone to give us an estimate?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Cheri, We would love to provide an estimate for your sewer line. We would definatly need an onsite visit and guessing your in our area of service. Please give us a call and tell the staff you talked to Dave and he said we would provide a free estimate for you.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  41. Matthew Hestwood on

    Good evening,

    We are looking into receiving a quote to have a gas line installed for a gas range.

    We do not currently have gas at our residence.

    Thanks!
    Matthew Hestwood

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Matthew, I have no problem giving you a free estimate for that. We would definatly need an onsite visit and guessing your in our area of service. Please give us a call and tell the staff you talked to Dave and he said we would provide a free estimate for you.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey David, I have no problem giving you a free estimate for you water heater. We would definatly need an onsite visit and guessing your in our area of service. Please give us a call and tell the staff you talked to Dave and he said we would provide a free estimate for you.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  42. Kenneth Davila on

    Hi Dave:
    I have a house built in the fifties and have a hot and cold water line in the garage to the washing machine. There are two shutoff valves that have a very small pipe sticking out of the stem and was wondering what they are for. I replaced the lines today to the washer but when I cracked the line water started shooting out of the little pipe. I closed the line and the water seemed to drain out and then stop. Will the water stop if I open the valve all the way or is there something wrong that I should know about?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kenneth, It seems like it could be a drain down for freezing conditions if in a garage. I dont know for sure without seeing and don't know where you live, but if in a cold climate maybe set up to help from freezing in the winter time. I would have to see to totaly understand?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  43. Eileen Nicholson on

    I have a copper plumbing tee in the basement of my 1974 built house. The 1/2" pipe is tight against the concrete wall, and the vertical tee is cut off and open, and sitting on the top of the concrete sill, but it hangs off about an about 1/8" and is dripping water down the wall. The pipe looks like it had a cut out where the vertical open piece was inserted and sweated into the horizontal pipe. It's not a pre-made joint.

    I had to turn off the house water to address another issue earlier today, and I'm guessing the pressure from turning it back on blew out some makeshift plug inside. How do I fix such an issue? Is there some way to block that opening, which is only about the size and shape of a fingernail? Can it be soldered closed? I'm at a loss. Thanks, Dave.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Eileen, This definatly sounds like a professionals job. It sounds as if a solder joint has broken on a cap if it wasn't serving anything. I don't honestly know what you personaly could do without the right tools. It sounds like a plumber would solder an outside or inside plug to remedy this situation. If your tackling you need map gas torch, solder, wire brush, and sandcloth. I would aslo want to drain the system as low as possable before trying and don't have any quick or easy remedies with it being copper and on a fitting. Good Luck!

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  44. Raquel on

    Lost power here in North Texas for 10 hours at about -2. When power returned Rinnai code 65 which indicates we need to call a plumber but everyone seems to say nothing can be done until hot water returns which we don't think will happen until the system is restarted. Are we confused? We do have cold water.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      It sounds like the unit is frozen at the unit possibly at the water flow control or inlet to the heater, We use heat guns in extreme temperatures when were trying to regain water flow through the unit. If you have no hot water flow its defiantly frozen somewhere at the unit.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  45. Richard on

    Hi Dave, in a side room of the house with concrete slab walls, I have hot and cold copper water supply lines, I chipped away carefully all concrete in a 8 inch hole showing copper pipe with a elbow fitting with thread that is corroded. Well we have to keep water main off because water is gushing out of elbow fitting. How to cap it??? With corroded threads. There was a 1/2 pipe that was in there originally but busted off at threads. I want to tackle cutting copper pipe below fitting, soldering new fitting on and running a new supply line to washing machine. It's weird though, why is that plumbing pipe inside a solid concrete wall, where I had to chip away with a mini Jack hammer to expose pipe and elbow fitting.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Richard, This sounds like a tough repair even for the professionals when anything is embedded in concrete. I'm hoping you got it repaired, but nothing short of chipping away at it and exposing enough to work with will accomplish the job unless you have a way to re-route.

      Thanks, Dave

      Reply
  46. Adele Coyle on

    Dear Dave, We are in the DFW area and I know out of your range. I have an outside water turnoff in a small cistern out front. The cistern keeps filling with water from the valve. My grandson was told a pipe was bad. In the back of my mind I remember my husband telling me if you turned the handle one way, the water shut off. Turn it another and water would flow into the cistern but you would still have water in the house. Turn it a 3rd way and water is on but nothing flows in the cistern. I don't know why you would want the water to flow into the cistern, but I distinctly remember his telling me that. The house was built in 1964 and is slab. I hate to pay for new line if what I think I remember is accurate. Have you ever heard of such a thing? Thanks for the help.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Adele, Its really hard for me to say without knowing how it was piped, but sounds like you have a three-way valve which can be for filling, using, or shutting off. The only reason you would want it to flow into the cistern is if thats how it was piped to fill from whatever the source. I would think if the cistern is full you would have the valve in the position to serve what it is being used for. I guess the three way valve could be bad as well versus the piping and you may possably have a check valve not working which is meant to allow water in, but not out to prevent cross contamanation. I would have a profesional have a look and give you a better understanding of your design.

      A cistern is basically a water reservoir of any kind which is used to accumulate and store water for future use.

      Cisterns are usually constructed close to the building which will use their water, sometimes even inside it

      Water enters a cistern from an external source such as rainwater from a rooftop, pumped water from a spring or other supply, or even by delivery by water truck.

      Water from a cistern is typically pumped out by hand, drained by gravity, or it may be pumped by an electric pump such as a one line jet pump.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  47. Kirk Liska on

    I recently replaced my lead pipes with copper. Everything works fine, but now the water pressure to the upstairs bathroom has gone drastically down. Did I do something wrong and what can I do to fix this problem. The water pressure everywhere else is fine.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kirk, The lead pipe im assuming your referring to is probably galvenized piping and just guessing you did a partial re-pipe. If you could tell me what all you re-piped you may just have dibris that ran up into the faucets or angle stops. I would say if the entire pressure is low to that bathroom you have a blockage in the main feeder line serving that bathroom hot or cold side. I would narrow down if its both hot/cold so you know what your truly dealing with and make sure the aireators are clean at the faucets and shower heads. The may tub/shower cartridge may also need to be cleaned.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jeff, As a general rule, your tankless water heater should be flushed once per year to maintain efficiency. However, the hardness of your water plays a part in this, and you may find it better to flush two to three times per year if your home's water is especially poor quality

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  48. Deonn Leath on

    Good Evening,

    Looking to get an estimate for an commercial job in Harrisburg. Trying to find out a cost estimate to tie the water and sewer line for a site. The distance away tie into the sewer is 449 Feet and will have to cross Hwy 49 in Harrisburg. Also, would need a lift station for the site since it sits down hill.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Deonn, I was away for the New Year and had bad reception in the mountains so sorry for just seeing this. We would not be able to perform a bore across Hwy 49 not sure who would have the license to do so on such on a busy road. We could perform the work, but would need a sub for boring and sleeving. I think you may be a better off with a State utility contractor and have attached a link for you.

      https://sucontractors.com/

      Reply
  49. Veunca Dupont on

    Hi????Good Morning☀️How are you? Hope all is safe well and doing ok!! My name is Veunca Dupont and I’m writing you about my mom Diane DuPont and my father Franklyn Dupont! Yes we honestly do know 2020 has been has been a year of up’s and downs and also Blessings on top of Blessings! ????????.... I’m Reaching out and Writing You about my mom and dad... THEY HAVE BEEN THROUGH ALOT THIS YEAR AND LAST YEAR... my mom hasn’t been working for awhile before the pandemic, due to her cancer and been in the hospital and now with both of my parents been sick this year with the covid going on ... it has been kinda hard with been out of work to keep up with the bill payments , utilities etc... and to keep food and other needs and other essential Needs in the house !!! But God is continuing to Bless them with things that they need and want daily !!! They both are known very well throughout the community... and they both have & Always had Giving heart ❤️!!... if they have it , or don’t have it .. (they will try hard to get it)!... they don’t and never mind giving and helping others that might need their help !!... They will go above and beyond to help others !!! they have been doing this for years !!!.... and I have picked up their giving spirit as well !!! right now they have 10 children that they are raising and keeping !!! Some of the children parents of passed away or their parents just needed some help with them and trusted my parents to take them in to help raise them and take care of them... !! They know where their help and blessings come from!!! When you bless others, just know that your blessings is on they way!????????????
    THEY ARE LOOKING FOR ANY THANKSGIVING AND CHRISTMAS HELP THIS YEAR !! Even if it’s just a box of groceries and some household essential needs ( like towels blankets cleaning supplies food etc!) that’s all a blessing to them or just a gift card is a extra special blessing!!! They are not picky at all!!! ❤️ and Thank you in advance for helping them !!!
    This is the children gender and ages ...
    Jeremiah DuPont boy 17
    De’Montray Weddington boy 17
    Jmya Gause girl 15(twin)
    Jnya Gause girl 15 (twin )
    Alaiah dupont girl 10
    Alijah DuPont boy 6
    Nadia Robinson girl 6
    Simone DuPont girl 1
    Daniel DuPont baby boy 5 months old
    Kristina Knox girl 8
    And
    Elson DuPont boy 4

    ANYTHING WILL HELP!!! Even if it’s hand-me downs !!! Or gently used !! They are not picky at all!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!! WE APPRECIATE IT ALOT !!! Have a safe and blessed day!!!!

    7042872536 Veunca DuPont

    +1 (980) 598-0196 Diane DuPont
    Address
    1703 East Crest Drive apartment k Charlotte NC 28205

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Veunca, We would love to help you and your family out and would consider it a blessing. My wife and I are going to call you this week whats a good day or time? Lets surprise your sibllings and parents. You are certainly special reaching out and love your heart..

      Dave

      Reply
  50. Eileen L Nicholson on

    I installed a Sharkbite frost free sillcock, and have used other Sharkbite fittings as well. After installation, I tested it, and had great water flow with no leaks. A week or two later, I was using the hose when the water suddenly stopped flowing completely. I turned off the valve under the sink, but found no evidence of water damage. When I turn the supply valve, I hear no water at all, nor is water flowing from the hose.

    During original installation I put a shut off valve between the cold water supply valve (also Sharkbite) and the sillcock. I'd like to have some idea of what. Ould have gone wrong before I open the wall. I pushed all fittings fully in to the marked line, so I believe it is installed correctly. Any ideas?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Eileen, it sounds like the plunger on the frost free hydrant is stuck at the end of the stem. I would turn the water off and remove the valve stem and see if the plunger is in tact or stuck in the frost free hydrant.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  51. Ken Scott on

    I have low water pressure and have had Charlotte Water to come out and tests, however not the meter because they said if they test it and pull it could lock up the Pressure Valve. They looked at my valve and said it was a screw on? But in order to really confirm that it is the valve they need to do the test at the meter. I would have to have the plumber ready to come by at the same time so we can get this done.

    Can you advise approximate cost of replacing that valve as I need to get it done, but cost is always a factor.

    Thank you

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Ken, The item your referancing sounds like the pressure reducing valve and sounds like it's near the water meter. I would figure just shy of $480 if excavation is required with a new brass pressure reducing valve and box. We have a $79 dispatch fee if you live in Charlotte and in need of service.
      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  52. Frederick Wenderoth on

    Hi Dave,
    I am putting in a new electrical service for which I'm using 1 1/4" pipe for the weatherhead feed. I need to thread the 1 1/4" pipe manually where it meets the meter pan. What size die do I use.
    The 1 1/4" measurement is the NPS (nominal pipe size). The outer diameter is 1.66". I'm not sure what size die I need to thread this pipe. Thanks for any help.
    Fred

    Reply
  53. sandra allport on

    The water going into the jet bathtub is brownish and the two sinks and shower in that bathroom only have slight cold water coming out of the faucets. The tub never has been used and only occasionally is the water turned on. The sink faucets have been showing a decrease in water for several days. Do you know what could be going on?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Sandra, I would be asking if you had well city water to understand the system first. It the house has some age on it you may ave galvenized lines serving the fixtures which could cause discoloration, but so could a well system that has sediment and rust issues.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  54. Steve Glenn on

    I like your idea of the Dawn Dishwashing soap and Hot Water. Would you recommend pouring some Dawn in your toilet sometimes as a preventive maintenance step? Thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Steve, I don't think it would hurt for preventive maintenance, but most buildup would be kitchen related not sure the toilet would provide the same results.

      Reply
  55. Rolf on

    Hello,
    We have a thankless gas water heater. When we take a shower with hot water for several minutes, sometimes the hot water supply stops and only cold water comes. This happens also when nobody else uses any other bathrooms, and no dishwasher or washing machine is one. What could be done? Is this something one of your technician can fix?
    Thank you, Rolf

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Rolf, We can help you if you live in the Charlotte area. It may just need to be cleaned if you haven't serviced the unit in a while by cleaning the heat exchanger or filter on the cold water inlet. Give us a call if we can be of any help to you,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Dave, If your setting a prebricated fiberglass base we would set it in the morter mix we just made so it dries in place.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  56. Mel lane on

    Can a slab leak repair be done without tearing up the concrete can it be rerouted or re-pipe I have a slab leak under one of my duplexes do you guys do work in Kings Mountain North Carolina I need some advice badly thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Mel, We are able to re-route piping 80% of the time versus break up the concrete slab. The plumber would have to find the leaking line and trace it to locate what it serves than he would determine what it would require to accomplish the task. We dont actually serve your area, but hope you find the help you need.

      Dave

      Reply
  57. james on

    Hi Dave, I have one simple question for you. Why would my toilet tank be filling back up when the water to it is securely turned off?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey James, The angle stop valves can fail sometimes and allow water to pass through especially with age or new construction home debris. It sounds like you need to replace the valve or washer in the valve to get positive shut off.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  58. Jim DeGiorgio on

    Dear Mr. Parker,
    I’m writing today to thank you and one of your plumbers who found a leak on our water line. I’m the President of our Homeowner’s Association which has 82 townhomes that share water services. Over the last 5 years, our water expenses have doubled. I contacted Charlotte Water and a large water leak detection company, but no one was able to help. Then I called ER Plumbing and Brennan from your company came out and found a leak that has to be causing our problem. We weren’t even sure we had a leak. All we knew was that our water bills were increasing. Brennan did some investigative work and found the problem. I thanked Brennan personally, but wanted to let you know of his outstanding work. Yours Truly.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jim, We sure appreciate you reaching out and letting me know we were able to help your community. I will let Brennan know again just how happy you were. Let us know if we can do anything else for you or the community.

      Dave

      Reply
  59. Kim Lynch on

    Thank you for your reply Dave! Our home is 8 years old and we are on city water. I can’t say for sure if the rust is happening in the warm or cold cycle. I never use the hot setting. I’m thinking I should stick with cold no matter what to help minimize this from happening. So annoying!

    We are actually having you all install a tankless water heater and a whole house filtration system tomorrow so we are very excited about that.

    Thanks again for responding!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kim, The new water heater you have installed will definatly elimanate the issue being water heater related if keeps happening. I see your in the Mayfair community which the water quality should be fine. I would have an appliance man have a look at it if an isolated issue. The water filtration system is a big plus with any water coming in from the community being served by the city so if the community has a break your protecting what comes into your residence. If you ever need me to stop over just let me know.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  60. Kim Lynch on

    I was wondering if you could help me figure out why our clothes periodically come out of the washing machine with rust spots and what we can do to prevent that from happening. I do run the clean washer cycle once a month with bleach. Is this something to do with my machine or the pipes? Any information you could provide would be most appreciated. Thank you!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kim, The first thing I would want to ask is how old is the house and are you on city or well water? The older homes sometimes have galvenized piping which can contribute to rust spots. The other thing could be age of water heater and accumulation of sediment not sure if it discolers when on a hot or cold cycle but worth checking.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  61. Jim Turner on

    This is a follow up from my question yesterday concerning descaling a tankless hot water heater.

    Actually the vinegar came out of the hot water line and back into the bucket the entire time. The level in the bucket stayed the same for the first 20 minutes and then it starting going down until I had to turn the pump off. That is why I am so confused. It worked just like the video for the first 20 minutes and then the pump was pumping out more than was being returned.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jim, The only thing that would make since is the hot valve did not shut off all the way for a good seal.

      Reply
  62. Jim Turner on

    So after watching a few videos, I decided to descale my tankless hot water heater myself. I put 4 gallons of vinegar in the 5 gallon bucket with the pump and turned it on. After about 20 minutes there was only about an inch of vinegar in the bucket. I was expecting all 4 gallons of vinegar to continually circulate through the heater and back in the bucket like I saw in the videos.
    Any idea where all the vinegar might have gone and why?
    Thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jim, It sounds like you may not have closed the hot water line at the unit meaning when you had the pump running if it never returned to the bucket it went into the water supply system. The vinegar wont hurt you thats the good thing, but seems like it never returned which it should have.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  63. VINCENT COSTA on

    i have a kohler shower faucet i removed the plastic hand knob but under it is another chrome piece with a flange that is preventing me from getting to the valve body/cartridge

    Reply
  64. Elizabeth Sanders on

    I am thinking about a under the sink hot water heater. I don't know enough about it to make a decision. Can someone give me a call so I can explain and maybe help me make a decision?
    Phone number 704-222-1800. I have used you one time before. I'm not sure if it in my wifes name or mine. My name is Ken Sanders

    Reply
  65. Steve Miller on

    Hi Dave,
    I have a Rinnai water heater that developed a leak on the copper tubing supplying water to the unit. The company sent me another combustion chamber to correct the leak. Now, 3 years later I found another leak which is keeping the unit from working. A sensor is getting wet. I get an error code of 49 but can't find what that code means. Can you help?
    Steve

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      A 49 error code is caused by the pressure switch either not proving or a bad component. Check the hose attached from the plastic elbow located behind the heater going to a small square pressure switch found inside the heater. It may have come loose or a mouse may have taken a bite out of it. Also while you are behind the heater, pull off the hose that looks like a vacuum cleaner hose and run the heater with it unattached. If it runs, you have a blockage in the vent. If not, take a flashlight and go outside to the vent. Look down the center pipe for any obstructions. If it still does not work, you may need a new pressure switch.

      While the front panel is off the heater, cycle the heater to attempt a start. You want to make sure the blower turns. If it does not, check the wire connections to it. You may be looking at a bad blower. If it is turning but still does not start, we are looking at a bad pressure switch.

      Dave

      Reply
  66. Liz Ernst on

    Hi Dave,
    I'm in Tampa, FL. I have a bronze waterfall faucet in a bathroom that hasn't been used in months. I tried to turn the water on tonight but the faucet won't budge. Is there something I can do to lubricate it or whatever is needed to get it working again?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Liz, I would shut the water off to the house and remove the handels so you can pull the cartridges and grease. You may just need some new stems ordered if they have a considerable amount of age on them and you may want a professional for eithger one of these tasks. If you know the brand name you may be able to You Tube the issue and watch someone that has a similar problem. I would say an example would be my Moen tub valve handle wont turn,budge, or is stuck.

      Blessings,
      Dave

      Reply
  67. john olesky on

    I want to unsolder something off a copper pipe. The 3/4 copper pipe sticks our from the wall and then has an old valve that was previously soldered onto the pipe. i want to put a new valve onto the same pipe. If i unsolder the old valve is there any special way i need to treat the pipr. it still has solder on it after removing the old valve.
    Can i just clean it and treat it as if it were a new piece of pipe of is there something else i should do?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey John, I would heat the solder and have a rag close to wipe it off and remove. I would sand after removing and continue with the new installation of flux and solder.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  68. Cynthia on

    This is a shout out for, plumbing, starting with Jason Hunter, Thank you for introducing me to ER. A very kind, conscientious service professional. His considerate concern for my well being on the receiving end of the upstairs water heater leak lead me to use ER Restoration Services and Greg Guffy and Brian Schmidts, an awesome duo, in expertise, execution, information, kindness, great senses of humor and willingness to answer all my questions. They did an incredible job swiftly, carefully, and went above and beyond.
    When the insurance adjustor for the landlord upstairs came to survey the situation, he even was so impressed he asked for the ER info card...
    My curious neighbor, upon seeing the ER Restoration trucks parked outside, said, ..."yeah, Dave and Laura are the best..." and it sure shows in their business...
    Way to go, guys! You are the best. Stay safe, stay well and a thousand thanks...

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Cynthia, We are glad you called us and so appreciate your nice review. Let us know if you need anything else

      Blessings,
      Dave

      Reply
  69. Scott Smith on

    Message for Joe Small: Hi, Joe. This is Scott Smith, you helped us replace a bathtub faucet at Baraka Place in Waxhaw March 4. If you left a small JBL speaker there, call me at 704-843-8062 or go by Baraka & ask for manager, Sue Tovar.

    Reply
  70. Scott Ochsenreiter on

    Hi Dave, we have a Rinnai tankless water heater which seems to functioning normally. On occasion, and intermittently, my wife fills Jacuzzi tub and during fill the water runs cold. No faucet adjustments- just stops sending hot water. I was wondering if the tub had a "cartridge" as you mentioned in another post regarding a shower; or is that just with a single handle temperature control valve? The tub has separate hot/cold faucets but, when I try to duplicate, it works like a charm. The Rinnai is about 14 years old but was serviced recently...about 2 years ago.
    Thanks, Scott

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Scott sorry for the late reply could not access my Ask Dave area. The tubs can have large spouts which put out more gallons per minute than the water heater can handle sometimes. I would say test it while a washer or something else is pulling hot water and see if it fails? I would think if you have two levers and just turned hot on only you would not lose temps. You may have to throttle down meaning don't open the spout all the way if it cant handle flow fully? If that doesnt seem to be working the cleaning was definatly something needed of the unit and gas flow may need to be checked?
      Dave

      Reply
  71. John Feather on

    Good morning Dave, my master bath is on the second floor and we're planning this year upgrade it. We don't like the layout of the toilet and shower. Are you able to change the lines out so the shower is where the toilet is and shower for a toilet, if so do you do a free estimate?

    Thanks for your time.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      John, We dont perform plumbing renavations just stick with plumbin service. You can usually alter the waste and water lines but would require some drilling through the floor joists. The tub is usually a two-inch pipe the toilet being 3" so having an open floor or ceiling would be required for any renavation company to see what they are up against on the relocation.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  72. clarence schools on

    I am interested in finding the quickest way to interpret the label on a water heater. Trying to determine the age and life expectancy for a friend. I am looking at a Bradford White. Some info on the label :
    Model number: MI5036FBN
    S.N. HD 14797943 D/N
    ANSIZ21.10lb-2006 * CSA4,lb - 2006

    Bradford White's website did not have numbers to match model or serial number. Is there a book/manual or website I can go to interpret appliance labeling?

    Reply
  73. carol creque on

    My master toilet loses water when the guest bathroom toilet is flushed. I had a camera put down all vents no issues. Then the y put the camera down the sewer line no clogs , they did find a belly of water at the main tap and said this may be the problem. They want to tear up the whole sewer line in the front yard. Do you think this will fix the problem?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Carol, I dont think the outside sewer would have anything to do with a toilet siphoning pull the cleanout cap plug if you have one outside and test by flushing. I would need more information like are the toilets back to back or in completly different rooms? I always ask history like how old is the house and have you been in it very long this helps with diagnosis. I do feel it could be vent related? The system having a belly can cause eventual buildup and backups, but again have you lived at the house a long time and ever had a backup issue or lost water in the bowl? If the house is new we would question how it was piped

      Dave

      Reply
  74. Jamecia Guevara on

    We are replacing our counter tops and my husband has agreed to put in a farm house apron sink. Our current sink is you typical dual sided sink with a garbage disposal attached on one side. Would it be easier/ cheaper for a plumber to put in a dual sided farm house sink or put in a regular farm house sink and disconnect the garbage disposal? I can also supply photos of the pipes beneath the sink if needed. Thank you in advance.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Jamecia, I would say either way would cost about the same so get what you want cosmeticaly so your pleased. The biggist thing to be careful of is depth of bowl and waste arm height coming out of wall in order to make things work. If the arm is stubbed out of the wall to high it will complicate things and may not even work so verify before proceeding. I would say 18" from the floor to the center of the drain arm is the most common height and anything below that will be even better. I would say if above 18" to center you may have to lower the arm by re-piping either in wall or through crawlspace if you have one through bottom of cabinet versus wall. Hope this helps

      Dave

      Reply
  75. Debbie Miller on

    I have a lower condo unit in Branson west. When the tenants above me flush there toilet, the toilet in my master bath loses all the water in the bowl. Sometimes when we flush the water pops or bubbles up. This has been an ongoing issue for at least 4 months. Prior to that everything worked fine. Also, my drains in my kitchen sink make loud gurgling sounds when not in use? What is going on?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Debbie, I would have the main sewer line checked the gurggling bothers me and dont want you to have a backup! The venting should be checked to make sure its not clogged as well it could cause this type of issue. I do think you need a professional on this one.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  76. Steve Verrochi on

    I would like to get a quote to replace a 75 gal gas power vent water heater. It is currently a Rheem power vent 2 model 22VRP75 installed in 2005.

    We would like to either replace it with a comparable configuration or replace it with a tankless water heater.

    Since we will be out of town from 12/22 thru 12/27 I want to see if we can get a quote from pictures I could send of the current installation. We would then want to schedule installation between 12/30 to 1/2.

    If this is acceptable let me know where I can send the pictures.
    Thanks

    Address is Whiterock road, Mount Holly, NC

    Reply
  77. Marquitta Winfree on

    The plumber who installed my Rinnai tankless heaters is an Amish man who is accustomed to dealing with a different high quality brand.... he doesn’t know why the following is happening. Our water meter says we have a water leak, slow, slightly erratic, but constant since we moved into our new house. We have also been told by the propane company that we have used twice as much propane as they would have expected by this time. Granted, we have been enjoying not having to jump in and out, one after the other as we did in the trailer home; but it’s been a few months now, so we’re not in the “hotel shower” mode any longer. This has been very puzzling for the passed few months; then, we started working in the basement and noticed that the hot water heaters come on for a few seconds, then off, then on, then off, etc. when no one is using ANY waiter, cold or hot! Bingo! Could this be the constant propane and water trickle? But where is the water going? Or is this just the propane trickle? Or am I crazy and it just sounds like they’re firing up when they’re really not?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Marquitta, The first thing we would do is shut the cold water feed off at the water heaters and walk back out to the meter and see if the meter stopped spinning. It sounds like you have a hot water leak somewhere not sure if your on a concrete slab but could be leaking under the structure. The only reason the units should kick on is if you have a recurculation system or leak if gas bill is higher and meter spins when not in use. If you shut the hot water off and the meter stopped spinning you need to call a leak detection company to try and find the hot water leak.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  78. Evelyn on

    Hello Dave , My husband and I had brought a hot water heater thru, homedepot , it was be install but was too big for the space , So we had to order one taken two weeks , so it arrived heater and installers by a company they called ,the Rheem electric hot water heater has only been in the house for 7 days and the heater makes a terrible noise when using the hot water,Im scare in using the tub for shower cause of the sound , The Hot water heater sound likes it going to blow,it sound like a train.My understanding thru. my husband while watching the individual that worked on hot water heater he used a drill and sharkbites on the lines hot and cold to connect the lines on top.what they used did they damage the lines? what causing the noise? Thank you hope I could get some answers , We have put a lot of money into this water heater, Hope you can help.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Evelyn, The problem you having would be hard to say without being onsite. I would say if it pertains to hot water only you start at the incoming valve making sure it is on all the way. The next thing is did the plumber use flexable connections to the heater maybe something is kinked. The last items would be something in the line or the heat traps that may have come with the heater manufacture are causing a noise. The bottom line is the plumber needs to come back and address the noise which was not present until the new heater was installed and take care of you.

      Dave

      Reply
  79. Mary Bell on

    What are your thoughts on the Aquor House Hydrant? I've seen them online but I don't personally know anyone who has one. It's a sillcock that my husband wants installed on our home.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Mary, We have never been asked to install or service one. I did see the link you sent and love the concept its frost free and seems easy to install. I'm not a fan of plastic and would wonder if the connection would strip at some point but cant give any feedback not having seen or installed any. I would just read reviews and would also point out because the adapter is plastic when you pull on the hose thinking you have more will it shatter and break the plastic in the housing of the hydrant?

      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Rick, I would want to check the shower cartridge first if everything else is working in the house it sounds isolated. You may need a new cartride or yours may have dibris that needs to be clened out for the balancing spool to work properly.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  80. mark marzonie on

    On a general maintenance/inspection of a Rinnai Tankless WH, what exactly does that entail?
    that is, what is actually done to the unit in this service request?
    How long does this service usually take?
    Is a written detailed, report provided?
    In general, what are we looking at, as far as costs?
    thank you

    Reply
  81. Jacquie Bell on

    Mixer taps.
    Trying to replace mixer taps with hose, ones installed have 3 pipes coming from taps. New one has 2. How can I do this.

    Reply
  82. Len on

    On Monday our water meter was replaced. We opened all faucets to let the air out and any dirt that could have gotten in flush out and our water pressure was normal. Tuesday night a load of laundry was done and still no problem. Tuesday night the temperature dropped to 17 degrees. Wednesday another load of laundry was started around noon and the hoses on the washer started jumping around and finally stopped but the water pressure in the washer and the whole house dropped to almost zero. The night it was so cold we left a small stream of water in the bathroom and kitchen sink and put a small heater blowing on the washer. Any suggestions of what needs to be checked would be greatly appreciated. I am 67 years old and have been disabled for the last 9 years. We can get our son to repair but just need to know what to look for and where to start. Thank you so much and God bless you and your family.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Wayne, It sounds like whereever your water main is located froze so if you have an uninsulated area like garage, storage romm, or well system those are areas to have protected. The washer would be a concern if it was the only fixture that you lost pressure at but from your notes pressure dropped everywhere. I would be paying attention to the area where my house valve is located that shuts everything off as my starting point and make sure the piping is protected from freezing. The meter being replaced could have had air enter which would subside. The other thing could have been if dibris during the meter swapout ran up the line and clogged somethiing. The system would stay the same meaning clogged even when temps rose above freezing meaning nothing froze and the line is clogged which would require a professional.

      Blessings,
      Dave

      Reply
  83. Jeremy on

    I was wanting to contact you about Melissa Berry I no she had told me she had talked to you sum. I am one of her friends. I was wanting to see if you could help her with her trailer. She is living in her mom's trailer. I've tried to help her make it atleast live able. But it's not. It is in bad shape. She has three places where the rain comes thru the sides and ceiling. One if her bathrooms the leak has made the ceiling have black mold and come down sum . She tries to live there the best she can. I've tried to help her and put what I can into fixing it up. But we have done as much as we can. She has a lot of health problems also. She can't work at all. She stays in alot of pain all day and night. She is having a lot of problems with her back recently the doctor's say her spine is like a 80 year old woman's. She is going for a cat scan soon. She doesn't have insurance. All she has is charity care and what help her doctors can give. She doesn't get up or out of her bed most days. Like I said it was her mom's trailer. One thing tat bothers her and even gives her stress is her mom died in tat trailer. That would mess with anyone. Plus another woman that stayed with her mom died there as well. So it gives her stress and depression. But it's all she's got to live at. She has two sons they are grown and starting there own life's and her dad doesn't help her any. She has had a really rough life. More than she ever admits or tells anyone. That's why I've tried helping her with the trailer and make it. Do you know any programs or people that could help her with her trailer? I no sum times the community helps fix or rebuild homes for people that can't afford it. She needs that very badly. Would a go fund me help her I don't no. If she did get one she can't let her family no or they would look down on her. I no you no a lot of people that could help her PLEASE HELP HER also she doesn’t have heat or air as of last summer her system went down and she can’t afford to get it fixed

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jeremy, First of all thanks for helping her with whatever you have been able to do. I have know idea where she lives so need to know that first, but we have some great resources to reach out to through Share Charlotte see the attached link. We have organizations like Love Inc and others that may be of help just not sure about working with a the trailor. I do hope this helps if your local to our area.

      https://sharecharlotte.org/search/nonprofits

      Dave

      Reply
  84. Paul on

    I have a Crane toilet and have been informed that this is a good old unit.
    I am having problems with the flush and was told that I need to clean the jet in the toilet to help push the waste out. I have not been able to find what tools I might need and just how to do this job Will you be able to help me with getting this information as I really do not want to replace this unit?

    Thank you so much

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Paul, Cleaning the Bowl Siphon Jets:

      The siphon jets are small openings under the rim of the bowl.
      If these jets become clogged, your toilet will not flush properly.
      Flush the toilet and watch how the water flows, it should swirl.
      If it comes straight down, the holes need cleaning.
      Inspect the rim openings with a mirror. If they are clogged with mineral deposits, first empty the tank and bowl using the following procedure:
      Turn off the water to the tank (at the wall supply) and flush the toilet.
      Fill a large bucket with 1 gallon of water and pour that water into the toilet bowl.
      Use a hanger or a paper clip as a "pipe cleaner" to clean out the holes at the rim.
      If the scale that exists is too hard to remove, try this trick to soften things up:
      Fill the tank with 1 gallon of pure vinegar (any kind). The vinegar travels from the tank into the rim of the toilet. Let it sit there for as long as possible (24 hours is good enough to clean the rim holes).

      Dave

      Reply
  85. John Baker on

    We have two toilets in the house. One toilet works fine. The other toilet I’m assuming has a break in the pipe that goes to the outside. I’ve told roots out of it. At this point I cannot get even a snake to go in through the toilet I am a renter I am not going to pull the toilet off the floor is there a second blowout on the house on the side where the trouble toilet is

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey John, Not sure how to help on this one withour being onsite. It could be the toilet having the issue is close to an exterior wall and the roots are finding the moisture from a broken pie or leaking toilet flange. I would have a professional look at it and let the owner know the issue before damage occurs to the residence.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  86. James on

    Hello David,
    Had kitchen sink faucet replaced for it was leaking water around the bottom of the main neck on top. But, this new faucet [no leakage] when you turn off cold or hot waters val. the water continues to run for a quick/short moment before completely stopping it flow.
    What's causing this? And Can I get under there and correct this myself or should I have the installers come back out and do this themselves?
    Thank You,

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey James, If the faucet eventually stops dripping the cartridge is working properly and seems like a some sort of capilary action is taking place. I would have it looked at but may be the faucet itself and discussing with manufacture first would be the first step before calling your plumber. The water from the hose is probably what is dripping until it stops and if teflon or something like that was used it could be wicking causing the dripping?

      Thanks,
      dave

      Reply
  87. Bill Parke on

    I'm replacing the waterline from the sidewalk to the house, because right after the turnoff going towards the house, it's leaking. So I dug under the sidewalk , towards the turn off. There is 3quater inch pipe going into aalmost roundish looking fitting and then the turn on.I cut the3quarterpipe so I could turn it out. The fitting pieceis turning too and doesn't come off, what do I o.

    Reply
  88. Doug Miller on

    Hi Dave: I have a 35 year old house and the tub and shower fixtures have never been replaced. Moen

    I discovered an adapter by Moen that will allow me to use the existing valve. (The current screws being in the 5-7 position, and the new diagonal.) Would you recommend I continue? In addition, do all of the shower head pipes screw on the plumbing behind the wall? I don't want to try removing it, in case mine isn't.
    Thank you.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Doug, The Moen valve is an easy retrofit when changing trim. The connections in the wall regarding the water lines and shower riser you won't have to touch. The shower head and gooseneck can be done from the bathroom side. I would change the trim and look for some you tube videoes on retrofitting your Moen valve trim.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxoOelg7ah8

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Tim, That would not help you. The stem or cartridge is your issue and can sometimes just need a washer but it's all internally in the faucet body itself.

      Dave

      Reply
  89. veronica weiss on

    plumber came 3 x in 2 years same problem clogg sink was told to pour hot water once a week ,still clogg .Im tired paying this plumber for the same problem last call was just 3 months ago, to think that i dont even use my disposal. 2nd time im posting my dilemma and i havent got a reply

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Veronica, Not sure how old your plumbing is but you may ask for it to be pressure jetted. Its really hard to determine without being onsite could be vent related or just buildup within the walls of the pipe a cable machine will never clear. I would use something that eats waste like enzymes versus hot water that way your cleaning the walls of the pipe because they multiply.

      http://www.bio-clean.com/bioclean/

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  90. Steve Dean on

    Dave: For the purpose of communication, I like to use the right terms. I typically her the word "toilet". I hear some people call it "the commode" once in a blue moon. Of course I've also heard "stool", "john", "potty", and "throne". In the horse/buggy days, I hear it was called "the water closet". In England, it is called "the loo". What name would you say is most appropriate. Or does it even matter?

    Thanks,
    Steve

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Steve, I have grown up calling it a water closet or toilet but personally for communication they are all correct answers where most will know what your talking about. Lol
      Dave

      Reply
  91. Kathy McKee on

    I have a toilet that I was told had been over tightened..what is required to fix this...the plumber that told me that apparently has no interest in fixing it..its been months

    Reply
    • E.R. Services on

      Hey Kathy, It sounds like the toilet flange may be broke so nothing short of pulling the toilet and replacing the flange will work.

      Reply
  92. Bob on

    I have a leaky outside water faucet that I am trying to repair. I live in a split foyer duplex built In 1964. I removed the handle and packing nut but can’t budge the value stem. The plumbing for the outside runs between the upper unit’s floor and the lower’s ceiling and it not accessible without tearing up the floor and want to avoid that if at all possible. What I am concerned about is busting something that would necessitate that action. My questions are:

    1) If there is a packing nut should it be possible to remove the value stem from the outside or are there other things to consider? Not sure how things might have been plumbed back in the 60s.
    2) If I should be able to remove the value stem what other actions should I take to remove it?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bob, If you could send me a picture of your spicket it would be helpful. The bib should have a nut behind the packing on the body but really depends on brand? I have my email attached feel free to shoot me a picture.

      Thanks,
      Dave
      dparker@erplumbing.com

      Reply
  93. Jason Barlow on

    I moved into a new house about three months ago and Everytime I do dishes or wash a load of clothes the floor drain in the basement laundry room backs up. They are on a separate drain than the rest of the house. I was told that it is a grey water drain it goes into a 2" iron pipe in the concrete floor and I can't find the discharge end of the pipe. I can't find any where that looks like water is draining on the outside. But, it does drain just very slow and since it's flooding my shop I have to try and make sure all of my tools are up but I have a lot of tools. Also, it is about 15 feet lower than the main drain line going to the septic was wondering what I could try to do to fix clog or to try and find the end of the pipe

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jason, If the line is metal you can have a private locater trace the line to the outside termination point or have a plumber use a camera which may be a good starting point. If the line is 2" a plumbing camera should be able to tell you all you need. I'm guessing you have a drywell and French drain of some sort outside.
      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  94. Bibi on

    I got my bathroom redone 2 yrs ago. Currently, there is no hot water coming into the sink or shower, and the shower pressure is low, but goes higher if I turn the sink faucet on. No hot water in either. Contractor says it's a clogged pipe and wants to replace piping. This is a second floor washroom, main floor hot water is fine. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bibi, I don't know the age of house but do you have galvanized piping? I would first think its related to old corroded piping from the sound of things maybe you have pictures of the renovation that may help determine what and how things were installed.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  95. Paul ANloague on

    I have a question about relocating my tub facet. I want to turn my tub, for more room, but was told I couldn't relocate the facet on the wall, because the water lines can't go around a corner. If this is correct, then why?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Paul, I don't understand why not you may have to notch the corner and add plate guards but should be able to work.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  96. Troy on

    Okay i live in a trailer and the matience man said the neighbors house was cloged up with wipes in the system saying we only have kids its are fault. We dont flush wipes how could this be us are plumbing works fine. could it be us? i only done small water lines so im asking a professional i don't like having to pay for something thats not my fault.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Troy, I'm not sure how a neighbors house would be connected to yours. Is your system on septic or city sewer either way you should have your own connection and may share the main trunk line. I feel this would be hard to prove without knowing how the line is ran and how many are connected to the main sewer line. If you are the only one with kids or grandchildren they are probably pointing things your way. I would say adults use wipes as well from cleaning counter tops to sanitizing hands and more.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  97. Janet Garrity on

    Inquiring about removing a toilet on the second floor and replacing it with a newer model with stronger suction when flushed . You serviced our home last year and sent your professional employee , Nick H. He was very thorough and provided great customer service .
    Please advise if you do toilet removal and installation of a new toilet . Also , what is the average price range for this service ?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Janet, We defiantly supply and install toilets and Nick can help you if you like. The toilet prices very on make and model we like Toto and would probably suggest the Comfort height model which is what most homeowners pick. If you call the office when you get a chance the girls should be able to help with price or connect you with Nick if you like.

      Dave

      Reply
  98. Timothy Ryan on

    I have a R75LS and it is set for 120 degrees. It's just not hot enough. I've looked at it but can't find a way to adjust the temperature up.

    Reply
  99. Mark Fitzgerald on

    I have very poor water pressure in my shower...and that is one place I don't want to skimp...I took the handle off the valve and it has "ECO" engraved on the stem. What does this mean in terms of gpm? and what can I do to increase my gpm?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Marc, Have you removed the water restriction device from the shower head that would be the first thing we would do?

      Dave

      Reply
  100. Aaron on

    Hi Dave,
    So I have what I believe/ researched is to be a blower vented water heater that came with my townhouse purchase 2.5 years ago. I was fixing my furnace today and just happened to notice by chance that a PVC pipe coming out of the blower, that goes about 45 degree vertical into another PVC pipe that’s sticking out of my wall next to furnace/ AC vent, had disconnected.

    I banged the ends back together and stuck the far end back into the water heater blower. Later I returned home to hear a bubbling noise coming from the little room my furnace and water heater. The noise was coming from a clear tube that’s looped in a circle, with a little bit of water in the loop, that’s coming out of my water heater and runs into a drain pipe in the concreate floor.

    Then I washed my hands and my kitchen sink and the hot water came out literally steaming hot. It’s never done that.. so now I’m left with 2 questions for you...

    1. What’s the PVC pipe called that’s coming out of the blower and what is the function of that pipe? Now that I reconnected it this morning it’s now very hot to the touch.

    2. What’s this clear looped tube coming out the heater and making a bubbly noise and draining into the floor?

    What I believe is happening..
    When I reconnected that separated PVC, it created steam pressure that built up in the tank and that clear tube is possibly venting the steam.

    The PVC pipe coming out the blower is steam also.. therefor making the water super super hot (kitchen sink).

    I turned the water thermostat down, now the bubbling noise stopped. Not sure if I “fixed it”. What can you tell me about this situation?? Ty kindly!

    Aaron,

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Aaron, It sounds like you have a power vented water heater. The pvc line is for exhaust and should be vented to outside so very important it stays connected. The plastic tubing is for condensate this is a high efficiency water heater and the loop is to stay as well so it traps water and no gases leave the tubing. I would check your thermostat and see if someone has adjusted or hit it accidently? I would also make sure the vent is clear with no obstruction preventing venting to outside. I would hire a professional if you cant seem to figure it out the thermostat may be acting up and don't want any scalding with personal use.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  101. Bill Payne on

    Had to disassemble the kitchen sinks/garbage disposal due to a clog.

    In re-assembling, inserting the 1½" pipe from the P-trap into the externally threaded galvanized pipe has a leak, even tho I replaced the teflon? seal which goes around the plastic pipe & the nut is as tight as it was.

    What alternative sealants are available? The leak is not significant, but keeping a pan under the leak is not a long-term solution.

    Thanks for your assistance. I've spent A LOT of time reading your solutions, you can tell your better half I appreciate her allowing you to do this.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bill, WE see this happen frequently and probably related the metal threads. We usually try and replace the galvanized arm coming out of the wall but takes a good size wrench and sealant when threading new arm back into wall. The other option is a tubular fernco adapter just explain to your local box store plumbing rep that works that isle. The pipe coming from the wall will be iron pipe size and the trap tubular so you will have some difference in pipe size so you know.

      https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/residential-plumbing/tubular-drain-pipe-connector

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jan, If you are saying the water heater relief valve is leaking outside you should be fine until a service man can come out. If it's a condensate line for air conditioning system it depends on whether it's the primary or secondary line leaking. I would check the pans any appliances sit in and make sure no water is present in them.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  102. Michelle Heise on

    Plumbers put outgoing pipe on our side of duplex. We can hear when they use water. Am I now paying for their bill?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Michelle, If you have your own meter you should be fine. If you are concerned about it look at the meter when you hear it running and see if it spins. It is not out of the norm to hear others plumbing system if the walls between units have plastic versus cast-iron pipe on the waste or if the walls aren't insulated very well.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  103. Jay Moore on

    Hey Dave!
    I have a two-handle bathroom faucet. When the cold tap is turned on, water leaks out of the stem of the hot water tap. I don't notice any leak when only the hot tap is on. Do I need to replace the stem of the hot water side, or can I just replace the outer O-ring? There is no leak with both taps turned off.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jay, It would depend on brand and most cartridges come all in one piece so would consider replacing everything but doesn't hurt trying the outer O-ring first from what it sounds like is happening and make sure it's in tight and not loose.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  104. Jay on

    i live upstairs of 2 story apartment unit, if my double kitchen sink was clogged on both sides and the pipes didnt connect to each other but led into wall separately, is it possible the clog was from me? or is it from the main line? Below my kitchen sink is my neighbors garage. When my sinks were backed up and i tried using a plunger, a lot of water came pouring down door of garage into driveway.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jay, I'm sorry for the late reply. The arms for each sink will lead to the same stack in the wall and drain down to the lower floors so yes it is possible that it was your individual backup if the neighbor below wasn't having the same issue?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  105. Ken Sullivan on

    Hi Dave,
    I have to install a new water valve for my dishwasher which happens to be an Accor Valve. What is the best valve to replace it with and when I turn the water off to the house to replace it do I have to do anything special to the Hot Water Heater?

    Reply
  106. Debi on

    Hi again Dave....I had ask about uneven water pressure in my mobile home and just to give you an update...it was the pressure switch needing replaced...it was about 16 years old but didn't use the pump until 8 months ago after moving on the property....hope this helps someone...we replaced it ourselves....of course now the pressure control valve needs replaced....so we will be working on that next because it is leaking...we hope to be able to relax after that.Thanks for being here for us.

    Reply
  107. Kevin Bumgardner on

    Just installed a new electric tankless hot water heater and I get hot water everywhere but my tub. I disconnected the hot water line going to the tub and turned water back on and it was luke warm what would cause this to happen

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kevin, I'm not a big fan of electric tankless units especially with higher flow fixtures like a tub which uses more volume or multiple fixtures ran at the same time. If you think about it the higher flow is hard to heat fast enough as the water runs past the elements. I would say if this has been an issue since inception and worked fine before with the last heater you had the issue is it can't keep up?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  108. Debi on

    After checking the pressure switch it looks good but Sparks when it comes on and shuts off real fast. I thought a pump should run for a few minutes to pump water in the tank. The pump is in the ground for our well water. I don't know anything about pumps so excuse me if I sound stupid.The water pressure is uneven when I turn on faucet.Tried running every faucet at once.Doesnt help clear any air out if that's the problem.What do you think?

    Reply
  109. steven on

    I have a marey eco 180 instant waterheater .... i need to bypass a circuit board internally so the unit will run is this a possibility ?

    Reply
  110. Debi on

    Please help....our new mobile home has well water. After living in it for about 8 months now we've noticed our water is having uneven water pressure and we hear thumping noises as it changes in pressure.What can be the problem?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Debi, It sounds like the well tank pressure switch area possibly the check valve. I would have a well technician have a look at it you may even have an issue at the well casing area maybe leak on the water pipe riser?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  111. SCOTT Bokoski on

    I recently changed over some plumbing from galvanized to pex in my bathroom remolding job. I turned the main water shut off to the house while installing the new plumbing. Now when the main is turned back on that bathroom and my washing machine really don’t have hot water like the kitchen and the other bathroom in the house and I can’t figure out what could be going on . I don’t have a basement and that bathroom and washing machine hook ups run off of the same line .

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Scott, It sounds like more galvanized piping is installed on the branch to those locations or small particles may have gotten in the fixtures and need to be blown out. If you can access all the piping you may have to install more to replace the old metal lines. I would want to start at the hot connection where the new pipes were run and see if you have proper flow and temps at that area.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  112. carolyn pitlock on

    We just had our m. bathroom redone. The plumber installed a Moen rain shower head and removed the water saver devise without our consent and told us after he was finished. I was furious, I did not want it removed. Is that legal what he did?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Carolyn, Any plumbing fixtures and faucets are made to conserve water under the water conservation act. We do see them removed quite a bit but usually at the request of a client not sure about the legality of removing? I would have him reinstall if you didn't specifically ask it be removed he should take care of you by putting it back in the shower head at his expense if tossed out.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  113. Tim Theesfeld on

    How do you keep the dain in the bathroom from smelling? This has room has been remodeled and the drain smelled before. Is this due to the shavin cream?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Tim, I would use some form of friendly bacteria like Bio Clean on the sink but pay attention to how its vented as well? The builders are using Studer Vents now days which are mechanical vents versus fresh air if you have one it could be under the sink and needs to be replaced. It may be vented properly but needs cleaning that's where treating it should help.
      http://www.bio-clean.com/bioclean/
      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  114. barbara laughlin on

    My ice maker has been in place for 18 years and works perfectly except for the slowness. Believe the problem is insufficient water flow because the tube that connects to the ice maker is partially clogged. Can it be cleaned or replaced?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Barbara, I would have to see your unit but surely anything impeding flow could be the cause of being slow. I would think the water supply could be replaced to the unit versus cleaning but would also consider replacing at that age it's due.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  115. Adrienne on

    Hi Dave,
    I am a part of a small Non-Profit called "A Giving Heart Project". We do a project once a month in Charlotte and the surrounding areas. We would love to partner with you on some of your Do Good With Dave events. How can we connect with you? We recently warmed the homeless in uptown Charlotte and plan to feed March 9. Please let me know how we can come and support one of your events.

    Reply
  116. Christy on

    Hi Dave, We are having problems with choosing the correct additive for the water tank. We are currently using a salt that is supposed to take care of iron in the water. Yes, the water is soft, BUT all the shower heads are clogged AND I still have those annoying brown rings in the toilet I cannot scrub out! What do we do? Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Christy, I would have a water quality report done to make sure you getting what you need for the water supply system. I have a link attached that can help you test and identify your issues for quotes to be submitted for you specific needs. If you look under the dropdown for consumer products you will find testing for particular system.

      https://watercheck.com/

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  117. E.R. Services on

    Hi Trista,

    It’s hard to say what the other valve is without seeing but may be the house shut off valve? If it looks like the other two valves it could be something that use to serve a humidifier or something in the attic?

    Reply
  118. Trista White on

    Under my bathroom sink I have three shut off valves. One for hot water to faucet, one for cold water to faucet, and one without a supply line. I initially thought maybe it was the shut off for my stall shower, but that’s not the case. Nor is it for the toilet. WHAT IS IT FOR? #confused

    Reply
  119. Bill Easby on

    Hi Dave, we need your help. We live in a 2 storey house and we are having problems with water in the basement! It appears we have a leak in the 3” abs coming from upstairs inside the wall. The water can be seen on the floor and on the foundation wall! Once l find the leak what’s the best way to repair leak? I have punched several holes in the wall in the kitchen and have determined the leak must be behind the lower kitchen cupboards! Just wondering if it could just be a bad glue joint? What’s your thoughts?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bill, I don't know how long you have lived in the house or age but would think a glue joint would hold if it has for years. Have you hung anything or do you think the baseboards or cabinets had nails shot into the pipe which has finally rusted out. We actually see that all the time your just going to need to trace it and hope that the issue is accessible form the basement and the leak isn't dripping from above. You could also have a cleanout plug in the wall down low not sealed and threaded in very well. I would say if it's not constantly leaking it probably would not be the water supply if only leaks when sink is draining.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  120. Jennifer Mayer on

    Dave: That's just what we did! My son-in-law came over & turned off the hot water heater & valve by the overflow tank. He said it was just going to keep trying to fill back up & keep running. The stores were closed, but he's coming over tomorrow & replace the overflow tank for me ( since it sprang a leak). The water quit running in the basement now. He doesn't think anything's wrong with my water heater, so that is a huge relief. THANK YOU for your quick response & Help! MUCH APPRECIATED!

    Reply
  121. Jennifer Mayer on

    Hi Dave: I'm having a problem with my hot water heater overfill tank. It has sprung a leak on the side of it ( small hole) but it really seems to be under LOTS of pressure. Hot (Very warm) water is squirting out of the hole. My basement floor is somewhat wet & my basement ceiling has water dripping from it & it's steamy in the basement. I haven't used the hot water for hours. So I thought the pressure in the overflow tank would die down, but its still spraying out like CRAZY!. It's the weekend, so I couldn't get ahold of any plumbers for answers on what to do. Is there someway I can get the hot water to quite blasting out of the tank & relieve this pressure, until I can get a plumber here? Why would it be doing this??? Is my hot water heater going bad? I don't want anything to explode! I also noticed earlier, when doing dishes, that the hot water was EXTREMELY hot. I haven't used any since then, just to be safe. Can I use just cold water until I get this looked at or use NO water ( hot or cold) at all? I don't know if this has anything to do with this, but my neighbor said sewage backed up into his basement this morning & they came to rotoroot ( snake) out his pipes. I know we have old city pipes that get root problems frequently. But I don't think this has anything to do with my hot water heater overflow tank problem. If there is a spigot or valve I can shut off to stop this pressure, please tell me exactly where it would be, because I'm not very plumbing savvy. THANK YOU for any help or ideas!

    Reply
  122. Miranda on

    We have noticed decreased water pressure in our showers and sinks. Husband checked some valve and said it wasn’t that (we are on well water). Our ice maker is barely making any ice and the water from the fridge comes out very slowly. When we flush the toilets they slowly fill back up with water. Could these all be separate issues or are we missing a much bigger problem? Where do we start?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Miranda, It sounds like a well issue possibly with the pressure switch or bladder tank. The problem would be at the source if all fixtures are having issues as stated and would have the system looked at by a professional.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  123. Margaret Sprinkle on

    Hi heres what going on , I have cold water but no hot in bath tub. . Its an old tub, its a daul tub with shower lift in spout. What do i need do do

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Margaret, I would want to check the type of piping you have and the cartridge for the hot line supply. I don't feel it would be something you would want to tackle and would get a professional to look at this for you. If you have hot water to the sink its defiantly in the valve itself or piping to that specific fixture.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Martha, I would say look out for several things.
      1. Pay attention to the tub spout when diverted to shower does it spray backwards towards the wall where the hole was drilled for the pipe that comes out and spout fits on.

      2. Make sure the shower arm the comes out of the wall and the head attaches to is properly sealed and not loose.

      3. The trim plates on the wall are sealed so water doesn't spray off your body and trickle behind the plate.

      4. The tub waste overflow is tight some times the washer is not sealed properly to check the screw and tighten on the plate if needed to draw the washer in.

      5. Make sure when someone is showering the water is not getting outside of it when it sprays off your body because it could end up outside of the tub and dripping downstairs the corners are the worst for this.

      6. I would fill the tub from the spout as a test not the shower head and up to the overflow. I would drain it and see if it leaks? If it doesn't try the shower without someone in it and if it leaks concentrate on the spout and head area and possably the valve itself.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  124. David on

    I’m moving my shower supply lines to the opposite side of existing. Is it wrong to cross the lines in an X pattern to get hot to left and cold to right

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      David, That is no problem at all the only thing that matters is that hot is on left and cold on right no matter how it gets to the fixture your piping.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  125. Myrna Bancroft on

    Hi Dave, I just replaced the air valves of 2 of my baseboard radiators located on the lower level of my home that were leaking, and water is still leaking out of the air vents of the new valve's I replaced. I have turned off the radiator and open up the air vent fully hoping all the water will drain out before I close it back, but it has been over half an hour and water is still spouting out. Any suggestions. Thank you!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Myrna, We don't actually work on radiators that's more on the HVAC side of things. I don't know how to answer your question on this one sorry to say.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  126. Kathi Bloom on

    Thanks, that's great. I see why now. The single handle anti scald that's in there now with no volume control is less expensive and I suppose the contractor assumed it was generally acceptable and didn't ask me before putting it in, and I just assumed I would be getting equal to what I had. Well, I've learned something, about tub fixtures and to pay attention to all the details of the process and never assume anything - thanks so much!

    Reply
  127. Harold Green on

    having a little problem in my back yard. i notice two little air bubbles bubbling from the ground causing a small stream of water to flow downward. also this particular area have a smell of a gaseous odor coming from it and the water is very clear. What could this be?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Harold, It sounds like you may have a full septic system and perking well from all the rain? I'm just guessing but are you on a septic system.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Chris, Your not suppose to but cant say we haven't before. I would say give it a try and see if it helps the fixture your still having an issue with and if doesn't just remove it. You may also just want to change where the current one is located to see if it works any better. We always try the furthest fixture but sometimes have to move them around because how the house is piped.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  128. Kathi Bloom on

    Thanks Dave, yes this helps - I need to have a fixture with volume control. I find it very strange that the majority of homes would have this type of thing with no volume control. There are so many things wrong with that - such as, the hot water runs out too quickly- you use more water than you need- you can't slowly adjust the temperature of the bath when you're in it- you can't give a small child a light shower, you can't leave the tub alone to fill slowly. To me this is a downgrade, not an upgrade, not good for a new bathroom that had volume control before the renovation. So, I will need to insist on a fixture with volume control and possibly need to find a plumber to do it depending on what the contractor can or can't do.

    Reply
  129. Kathi Bloom on

    I'm remodeling the bathroom. The contractor put in a new tub and the fixture that turns the water on/off doesn't allow the water to run at a slow speed, iow, it's a circular fixture with a palm-size handle that points down. To turn the water on, the handle is moved counterclockwise. So if I move it a tiny bit cold water comes moderately fast but as I move the handle further up to get hot water, there is no way to control how much water comes out, it just rushes out at full speed. And also the handle only moves 180 degrees, or, from south to north, even though it is on a circular base that would seem to be made to turn 325 degrees around at least. So there's no flow control and the handle only moves half-way around the fixture.
    So the only way I can get hot water, to fill the tub, or to shower, is to have it gushing out at full throttle, and I was told by my contractor that the fixture apparatus, according to code, had to have "scorch-protection". I said I'm not talking about that, Scorch protection, code or not, is less important to me than being able to choose what kind of water flow I want, slow, medium, high and/or in between. He shrugged.
    So I found this column and realized it is a perfect place to find some helpful information. It's a question about whether I need to insist on a better quality fixture, or if it has to do with how the faucet fixture is set up, such as the water mixer I've seen mentioned here. And what do I need to say to the contractor to have him understand (if applicable based on your answer) that there needs to be a fix for this. Especially any specifics I can relate so the contractor knows I have the right information and can't be hoodwinked on this.
    Thank you so much, I appreciate any help you might have and I hope you can answer my questions without too much trouble.
    Sincerely,
    K. Bloom

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kathi, The single handle anti scald pressure balanced valves do not have volume control options. The shower would need a thermostatic valve set at your desired temperature and a volume control to perform like your wanting or purchase a valve with separate handles. The majority of homes now all have the same valve your contractor installed hope this helps.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  130. cathy m knight on

    I have a problem with clear water coming in under my toilet when I flush or use my shower and bath and kitchen sinks. I don't think I have any clogs. I actually think the problem is drainage from my property. My septic tank is not backing up and I've had my tank pumped twice and it is full of water again. I live in Clover, S.C. With all the rain we have had I think the water has nowhere to go. What do you think I need to do or who to talk to about this issue. This is going on the third week I have been dealing with this. I am a 67 yr. old widow living on Social Security.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Cathy, I would say with all the weather the yard may not be perking very well if tank is full again. I'm not sure if you have the ability to connect to the city but that would be one option. The septic company pumping the system ay also be able to provide a solution especially with your record of pumping in such a short amount of time. I would call whoever has been servicing the system and ask if they have someone that can provide a solution. We don't work on septic systems but with all this rain which seems to be a record amount surely others may be having the same issue the ground is extremely soaked. I see no immediate fix besides pumping again and getting an assessment of your system from a qualified professional.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  131. Terry Winters on

    Hi Dave,

    I bought one side of a twin-home, or duplex, where the homes are only joined by the garage wall. During the Summer heat, I get very hot water coming out of the cold tap, but only during the hot months so I know it's not hot pipes being too close to cold pipes. Due to my trusted home inspector during the purchase process, I know my pipes that can be seen are all insulated properly. Could this be from the twin side and if so, what do I do? For the last two Summers, I just run my water until it feels tolerable as soon as I got home from work so it doesn't do any damage to my fridge ice/water outlets, toilets, or clothes washer. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Terry, The first thing I would do is make sure nothing is crossed by shutting the hot water valve off at the top of the water heater. If you turn that valve off you should not have any water coming out of any hot side faucet once system is drained down. If the water continues to flow you may have a crossed line. The other thing to think about is the temperature setting on the heater and thermal expansion do you have and expansion tank and is the heater temp set to high. I would also want to know if you have a recirculating system installed at the water heater for quicker hot water at point of use. I would make sure the heater set temperature is at 120 for safety and seek a professional especially if you can be scalded.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  132. Gerald on

    Id like to ask a possibly crazy question but here goes, I regularly flush thing down my toilet like cereal, foods, chocolates, I try to avoid wet wipes and things that ould block the toilet almost immediately but put things that will block it if I didnt take action soon I think, I mean create a block somewhere where I cannot access to unblock it in the drain or between drain and toilet, Ive flushed things like, orbeez, small toys even, kinetic sand, bananas etc anyway I know this is crazy but how can I avoid blocking the toilet and still carry on doing what Im doing?
    I thought maybe after a few weird flushes I call them, I can put some caustic soda down to make sure nothing is accumulating down there, maybe detergent and hot water another time, you know alternate between the two.
    Please dont ask why I do it but I do daily, it kind of experiment for kids and I get paid for it but not much, now if the toilet keeps getting blocked then it would cost me a bomb calling out a plumber each time, maybe I could get insured for my crazy activity?
    Or make a deal with a local plumber and explain about the high call outs and he/she may give me a very reasonable rate, or finally just learn about toilet plumbing myself, guys sorry about the strange question but what advice can you give me in my situation? Thank you.
    Gerald
    ps Please forgive the strange question, and Happy CHRISTmas to you all, and pray 2019 will keep you well and safe and happy.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Gerald, You have to figure a way to stop this or it will cost you a major amount of money for repairs. It will get even worse cost wise if your home is on a concrete slab and have to cut floors to remove objects. I have no way of helping you with this its going to have to be something you try and stop before flooding the house with sewage and having to deal with bigger issues. The items your putting down the toilet are not made for the pipes to carry or move and the city utilities to treat.

      Blessings,
      Dave

      Reply
  133. Ron on

    We just had a new Rheem water heater installed about two weeks ago. In the last three days or so we have experienced an odor of eggs when our hot water is running. HELP. Christmas guests on their way. Any suggestions or thoughts?

    Reply
  134. Grant Marquardt on

    Merry Christmas Dave!
    I installed brand new faucets, supply lines and valves for our kitchen (downstairs) and 3 bathrooms (2 bathrooms upstairs). The main line had to be turned off for the installation of the water valves. Once these installations were complete, the kitchen and downstairs bathroom have perfect water pressure. The two upstairs faucets have no pressure, only a trickle. The aerators were removed with no change in pressure (we though they could be clogged once the main line valve was turned on). The toilets and showers have perfect water pressure in these upstairs bathrooms, yet these brand new sink faucets are have no pressure. We find no leaks anywhere in the house.
    Is there air in the lines going upstairs? Are the brand new faucets defective (not likely)? I plan on unhooking the valve connection to each faucet and test the pressure. Any ideas? thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Happy Jesus Birthday Grant! The part you said about disconnecting the supply lines and running them into a bucket is something we would do as well. We have found pressures changes will very with different types of faucets. I would find it hard to believe two sets of faucets are doing the same thing and can't imagine four angle stops going bad. I would make sure the supply lines are not kinked but sounds like your on top of everything simple to test. The other thing you could do after the supply line to bucket test if low pressure still is a problem is turn the water off to the house and take the packing nuts off the angle stops to check for debris.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  135. Roberta and David on

    Hi Dave,
    I had to replace my drain hose to my dishwasher, My husband laid it on it's back to do this but now it won't stay running, it cuts on and off kinda. Well not quite on and off but starts and stops. Can you give me advice?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Roberta, Make sure the hose is not clear and hasn't been kinked during installation. The hose also needs to be looped up high before connecting under the sink. It may need to be looked at by an appliance man could be something electronic acting up? I would say if it was working before the new hose installation hopefully its something simple and related to what the hubby did.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  136. Christine R on

    Hi Dave,
    Curious to hear your opinion regarding a problem with my shower.
    Shower was functioning properly on Sunday, then Monday morning when my husband turned it on, it ran for about 10-15 seconds, then sputtered out, and no water has ran from it since. All of the other sinks and toilets in the house are functioning normally.
    We’ve never previously had issues with pipes freezing, but I suppose it’s possible.
    Our shower has a rain shower head and a hand-held attachment, both of which are not working.
    The shower is on an exterior wall of the 2nd story so I can’t access the pipes easily.
    Any tips/ideas before I call a professional?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Christine, I'm sorry for the late reply was out of town without access to my system. I would say if the weather was below freezing the day this happened and on an exterior wall as you said it has a high probability that it froze. I would say chances of insulating better would be hard now because you have no access behind the tile or enclosure. I would make it a point to run this fixture with a stream of water in extreme weather conditions to reduce the chance of freezing if no access can be obtained to insulate better. It doesn't sound like the plumber protected the piping on the exterior wall very well and running the water while your trying to sleep will drive you crazy but not much you can do without getting into the wall. If you could look outside or have access underneath area and see anything that could cause a draft in the wall try and seal it.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  137. Ela on

    Hello, I live in a townhouse, that is part of an entire complex . Almost every month the plastic pipes in the ground break, and they turn off the water for everyone. But my question is if the "regulator" for the one pipe outside of one unit needs to be changed, because water is leaking. Will the water for everyone also needs to be turned off ?
    Thank you!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Ela, If the pressure reducing valve needs to be replaced on the individual unit service line and doesn't have a valve in front of it you would have to shut the water main off to the community in order to install a new one.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  138. Gary Moran on

    About 4-5 times a day, I hear a sound that resembles someone turning water on or a tank filling but it only lasts for about 10 seconds. Could it be a leak? Toilet tank partially re-filling? It has been occurring for a long time but seems more frequent recently

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Gary, It defiantly sounds like a toilet issue. I would put die like food coloring in the toilet tank not the bowl and see if it ends up in the bowl. If you see die after putting in the tank come into the bowl you have an issue with the flapper or flush valve that needs service.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  139. Sal Pastino on

    Hi Dave,
    Thanks for your response.....The pressure throughout the house is normal. I haven't checked it with a pressure gauge but it seems to be the same without noticing an increase.

    The shower faucet seems to be the only area where the water is coming out at a high rate. I was figuring maybe a part in the valve (cartridge?) needs to be replaced?

    What do you think?
    Thanks again for your input.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Sal, The water pressure should be the same throughout the house its all interconnected. I don't know if you have two showers but is the other the same pressure or is the shower head r valve different? I would try a new shower head with a water saver yours might have been removed during installation. The new shower heads or any faucets come with water saving parts to conserve. The cartridge should not cause an increase in pressure and all fixtures are served from the same source but faucets and flow rates can change depending on brand and type. I would ask has this always been an issue or just started that's important to know as well.

      Reply
  140. Sal Pastino on

    Hi Dave,
    I have a Moen single lever shower faucet and when I pull the handle out I get too much water coming out of the shower head. I push the handle slightly in and the water decreases but it starts to make noise and I have to adjust it again.

    How do I repair what I just described above?
    Thanks in advance for your help.
    Sal Pastino

    Reply
  141. Kellie Handley on

    Hey Dave, This morning I noticed water bubbling ( a small waterfall) in my backyard. After digging around it (not very deep) I found It's from a black plastic pipe (6" maybe) that has a cap on the end. About 2" from the cap the pipe has sprung 2 leaks. What is this pipe for and who do I call...a plumber or the water company? Thanks so much!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kelly, The back yard is not usually where water would enter the house but maybe you have a well system. If you have a small black pipe leaking it could be the water service and you would need a plumber not the city because its private property. The pipe if water would not be any larger than 3/4 or 1" and is very common to leak when black poly. If the pipe is larger you may have something else going on? The water line should be buried deeper if you live in a cold climate than what you have stated on approxamate depth.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  142. Jen Panaro on

    Hi Dave,
    I was in my crawl space last week and I noticed water dripping from my floor joists. Since these particular joists are located next to where the gas line enters my house for the stove I was able to easily locate the leak. I opened up my wall to find that the sewer pipe is leaking. The pipe runs from my upstairs down to the crawl space and it is leaking at floor level, at the seam, where the pipe sits into the elbow joint. Obviously the area around the pipe is wet, but it does not smell. I also put my hand up in the wall to make sure there wasn't a leak coming from above. There is no purple primer around the pipe, I don't know if this is because they didn't use any or because they did things differently when my house was built (1989 and I am in Charlotte). I did find it odd that water was leaking from here because the pipe sits in the joint and the water/sewage drains down. This led me to think there could be a blockage, but I have no gurgling toilets and there is no sewage backing up in places it shouldn't be. Do you think clogged sewer lines are my problem or does this portion of pipe just need to be replaced?

    Thank you,
    Jen

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jen, It sounds like you have already diagnosed the problem. I would say if the line was stopped up you would hear gurgling like you said or water will rise in the lowest fixture rim. I think you may have a bad glue joint like you said if you have no water coming down the vertical pipe. We find nails or screws in pipes all the time where things like cabinets, pictures, crown or base boards are located so make sure the riser is not leaking and check the backside with a mirror if needed. I think from what your saying you will need to change the elbow to solve the issue but just verify again try filling tubs or sinks than dumping so you have a greater amount of flow to test.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  143. Kathleen on

    Thank you for your reply Dave. Good Information.
    I looked at a couple of valves at Home Depot and found the below one. Does the 1/2 inch in the description refer to the pipe size.

    1/2 in. Brass MPT x MHT Front Operated Dual Washing Machine Valve at Home Depot:
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Brass-MPT-x-MHT-Front-Operated-Dual-Washing-Machine-Valve-VWMDUAF3EB/205812092

    And this one does look just like mine but was not sure if they were all the same size. I tried to reply to your message using the "reply" but I could not get that feature to work.

    In the video it does look simple so I will consider doing it myself or I will contact your company to get a quote to do the install since it sounds like in your below message this is not a part you have in stock. Thank you for your help. This is a great feature to have on your website.

    Reply
  144. Kathleen on

    Hi Dave,
    My washing machine's one lever shut off valve is dripping right below the lever. It has two big screws on each side basically like the one shown being replaced in the below Youtube video. Mine is also set inside a box behind the washer.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyTN83SrlY8

    I live in the Charlotte area and wanted to know how much your company would charge to put in a new shut off valve behind my washer. I had another plumber look at it but he talked about cutting into the wall and based on the video, it seem you just need to unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. Is that correct and would your company do that type of work?

    Thank you, Kathleen

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Kathleen, The plumber probably didn't know you could replace from above. I would say order it the tsk seems very simple and user friendly. It seems so simple anyone could do it with a screw driver and all you need is to be able to shut the house down to work on it. We can surely help you if you want to order the part and have it onsite it works with several manufactures. Just give us a call if you want our help? I would keep the video handy to show anyone you choose this will be an easy installation and should work just as the video shows if you have the same box as one of the three they work with which are prominently used in our area. The majority of homes have the old two handle style so that's why the plumber didn't know and honestly not sure my guys would have. I will use the video in training to see if my guys new this as well.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  145. Linda Dorrill on

    Hi Dave,
    My shower faucet used to be off at 6:00 and fully on at 12:00. I heard a "tap" (kind of like a hammer hitting a piece of wood once.) Now, the faucet is still fully on at 12:00, but is off at 4:00. And, the hot water doesn't get as hot. Could you tell me please what is wrong and if I should call a plumber?
    Thanks. Linda

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Linda, It sounds like the limit stop broke that fits on the handle and cartridge. I don't know your brand of faucet but sounds like a simple repair and you may be able to goggle it or find a You Tube video for repair before calling a professional. The valve may have a lifetime warranty if you call the manufacture and they could ship the part.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  146. Stuart sinfield on

    I had new taps fixed that had a bad leak. That's fixed but we now get a bad smell when we turn on the radiators. It is not there long but i can't work out if it's the radiators. I checked the floor it was a little wet but it's now dried out.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Stuart, The smell could be from several things most during initial start up of new heating season. I have a link attached with some possibilities but seek a professional if it the smell doesn't go away.

      If your radiator gives off a very bad smell of bad eggs or similar when you are bleeding it (removing air via the air vent) it is probably a build up of hydrogen sulphide in the water that you can smell.

      https://www.networx.com/article/bad-smell-radiator

      Reply
  147. Gloria on

    If the hot water fixture under the sink is turned off will that guarantee pressure enough to make a pipe burst or is it more likely that the pipe would burst due to being faulty?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Gloria, A pipe can burst for many reasons. If you turn off the valves under the sink it will avoid damage to the actual faucet and supply lines. If a valve bursts it would be from freezing, poor piping, or installation related.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  148. James Bennett on

    In ref.tomy hot water comeing out the cold side, I have lived here 12 years and it just started about 3 months ago I dont have a recircuclation system. I just dont know what is causeing it I am almost 87 years
    old and I cant do what I used to. Thanks for any other help you can give me.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey James, Do you live in the Charlotte NC area? If you did we would gladly have a look at no charge just to help you out. I really would have to get my eyes on things to help you anymore with this issue. How about turning off your washer machine valves and seeing if it makes a difference just to eliminate that area?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  149. James Bennett on

    all of a sudden my cold water side has started to be hot for a little bit then turns cold I mean real hot even outside hose bibs. every one says not possiable but it is doing it help

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey James, Do you have a recirculation system on the hot water system. If you shut the hot water valve off at the water heater does water continue to run out of the hot side faucets? If that answer is yes something is crossed in the plumbing system clearly and you have to figure out what.

      Crossover Common Problems:
      1. Bad check valve on recirculation system
      2. Tub/Shower cartridge failure
      3. Washer machine
      4. Recent plumbing renavation that crossed lines

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  150. Lauren on

    Hi i leave in a apartment i dropped my bag of jewelry an i accidentally flushed it down is there any way i can save it pls let me know thank you so much highly appreciate it

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Lauren, The chances could be slim but worth trying. I would pull the toilet and see if it made it through the trap first. If you don't see anything after turning the toilet over than proceed to have a drain vision camera ran to see if the jewelry is in the line and never made it to the city tap? I know you will need a professional for this service and we have had success in the past but could go either way.

      Good Luck,
      Dave

      Reply
  151. Renee on

    Dear Dave,
    My husband and I live in a 106 year old, 900 sq. ft. home with 1 bathroom. We recently moved back in, after having renters in our home, and while we didn't initially have any issues, that is starting to change. We have what I'm guessing is the sewer drainage pipe that runs directly down the middle of out back yard. When we moved in, we noticed that there was an opening into the pipe that didn't have a cap and when we would flush the toilet, run the shower, or do laundry there would be water over flowing from that opening. My stepdad blew air down into the pipe and added a cap. We had had torrential downpours, so the crawlspace below our house was extremely wet, but my husband claims that he noticed waste below our house. Since then, there is gurgling when we run a larger load of laundry with soapy water backing up into the shower. We are worried that there is waste coming our under our house, though there doesn't seem to be a strong sewage odor. We are nervous of the extent of damage there may be, cost, and any health hazards that could occur.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Good Morning, You have a main line stoppage. If you remove the cap your Dad installed any waste would overflow out of that pipe like it was which was a sign of a stoppage. I would hire a plumber for several reasons like is your system age and things like where it drains to city or septic. The other thing is what type of pipe you have this is a very old house. I would remove the cap that was installed until you have the stoppage fixed which will run on the ground outside like it was and the stoppage is between that cap and whatever connection you have meaning city or septic which may need to be pumped if septic. If he noticed waste under the house its concerning because you must have a pipe opened otherwise the stoppage would surface at the lowest fixture rim in the house like a shower, tub, or toilet. It was overflowing outside now the cap that was installed is making it come towards the house and wont relieve itself because of the stoppage that needs to be addressed.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  152. Christina McMillen on

    Dear Dave
    Recently my husband and I bought a home. The lovely couple we bought it from and just replace the septic tank. however after living in the house for a couple of days a smell has started radiating in our bathroom only in the evening time. The smell starts around 6 in the evening and diminishes around 7 or 8 in the morning.we've found the exhaust pipe busted and not venting out through the roof so we fix that the smell went away for a couple of days but now it's back what could this possibly be. It almost smells like rotten over cooked cabbage.
    Desperately looking for answers Christina and Dave from My.

    Reply
  153. Michael on

    How much to install slop sink in garage? Drain line is on same wall as the location of sink and hot water tank is to the right on same wall but with a doorway seperating. There is 2’ above doorway to ceiling.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Michael, I would think you would have water right where the drain line is usually a plumber will loop water to the plumbing stacks that feed fixtures or upstairs bathrooms. We would want to have pictures if a field visit isn't possible before pricing. We would also want to know what type of plumbing system you have for waste and water lines and if your suppling the sink and faucet.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  154. Vicky on

    My hot water heater (gas) is leaking. I turned off the gas/cold supply to it and mopped up for days. But it seems like it is still filling. When I open the bathtub faucet which mixes streams I get a dribble from both hot and cold. Could water be working it's way back in the tank from this? I tried to turn handle on hot water pipe to this bathroom but it seems stuck. I resorted to finally shutting the main off to see what happens.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Vicky, It sounds like the valve to the water heater was not shutting off completely which can happen if a gate valve. The only other way the water heater can fill is if something is crossed in the house plumbing system. If you turn the main water back on and shut the water heater valve off only and you open any faucet does water come out of the hot side only? If the answer is yes water keeps flowing we would want to replace the heater valve first. If we do that and turn the water off at the heater and it is still flowing something is defiantly crossed in the house or a mixing valve like a shower cartridge is bad?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  155. bo on

    Hi,
    I bought an ECO 450S Rinnai tankless water heater less than one year in Thailand to install it in France.
    Since yesterday, it doesn't heat water anymore, the water is still cold.
    The heater is correctly supplied.
    What is wrong with it ?
    Thank you very much.

    Reply
  156. Angela on

    Firefighters were down the street. Just went to take a bath now there's dirt and red gunk coming out of my pipes and water. Is it due to them using the fire hydrant for the house down the street. All my other water is running clear but not the ones in the upstairs part should I be worried?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Angela, The water should get better after running it for a while. The hydrant when being tested or used if shared with domestic water does not get turned on often so a rusty look and possible debris running to the fixtures will happen and should subside. I would be worried about it but would not drink any till it clears up.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  157. Vicki Snedeker on

    My tub clogs once a week. I finally got it to drain, slowly. I looked in the drain and it has a metal plate covering the hole. It must drain towards the pipes. What should I do to see whats clogging it?

    Reply
  158. Bev on

    There is NO SHUT OFF VALVE in my home. There is a leak somewhere, because the water bill has doubled. My home insurance will not help me (pay) until there is a shut-off valve installed. Why is there no shut-off, and why/how can I find the leak ... and them have the insurance do what it should do and pay for this fix?

    No wet yard
    concrete slab - they say there is a spaghetti junction directly from the main.
    What can I do?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Bev, You have to install a main water valve first to test the line from the street to the house. I would also want a valve at the water heater so we can shut it off and see if the meter still spins when the hot water is off. I feel those are your first steps and insurance will usually pay for leak detection. The company may have to find the line as it enters the home and trace it into the structure to know where to find or install a valve for the first phase of work.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  159. Janette on

    Hi Dave. I posted back on Aug. 2 about a funky smell coming from my toilets. We were going to replace the toilets. Called in a local plumber and he suggested first replacing the wax seal. He found some seepage there, nothing was coming through the caulking, however. That was the cause of the smell. Replaced one of the toilets wax seal and no more smell. Calling him back to do the other toilet. We lived in 2 older homes before custom building this house 16 years ago. No one in our families ever had to replace a toilet or a wax seal, are they making them cheaper these days? Unreal!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Janette, The thing with wax seals is not that they are made any cheaper but the flange it sits on is at the right height and the floor is level.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  160. Brian S. on

    Hi Dave! I recently moved into a house that my father owns and had the utilities cut on in July. I know the house has galvanized pipes that need to be replaced and I plan on doing so. However in the mean time I received a notice before the first bill that the city's water meter reading was high and to expect a higher than normal bill. (The history shows that the water bill for this property is usually between $20-40). When I received the bill the water portion was a little over $1500. I had a plumber come out and he noticed no leaks under the house or any pooling of water in the yard where the main runs from the street. He recommended that I replace all pipes but can I get by with just locating the major leak (hopefully in the main) and holding off on replacing all plumbing? I also had the city shut off the water until I can get the problem fixed so do I need to have the water cut back on before a plumber comes out to locate and fix the problem? Thanks in advance.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Brian, Sorry for the late response I was in an accident. The leak may be on the service line outside but the plumber should have a valve inside he can shut off to test the service and that would be the starting point. I would say to leak can defiantly be found by means of leak detection and they can turn in on when testing. The thing with galvanized is its hard to work with and can cause more leaks down the line when worked on. I would defiantly re-pipe when you can fit in in your budget.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  161. Janice Clark on

    I am thinking about replacing all copper water lines , since I've had a couple of leaks recently. I keep getting 2 opinions about whether to replace lines that are in the wall. Some say definitely replace them others say the vertical don't hold water like horizonal ones so won't likely leak .

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Janice, I'm not sure whether you are on city or well but private systems can have low PH levels that deteriorate piping faster and would have to be addressed with a neutralizer? I know if it was my house and the copper water distribution piping has had known pinhole leaks and thinned out over the years we would re-pipe the entire house for piece of mind. The water travels through the entire system so vertical or horizontal piping all has the same water quality running through it. I would say one significant water damage would pay for a re-pipe and certainly not fun to have to go through for any homeowner.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  162. Nellie on

    Hello I just had a new sink and faucet put in. When I open the faucet there is no leak, but when i wash my face or hands and water splashes around the faucet area, water starts to drip underneath the cabinets. What do you think is the problem? How can I fix it?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Nellie, I would have to see if water is splashing near the trim plate that is where the faucet mounts to the top. I have no idea what type of top you have but we use putty or silicone when sealing the faucet to the top to prevent water from dripping down in the cabinet. I would look under the cabinet on my back up to the faucet where it was mounted and see if it is dripping from that area while running first?

      https://youtu.be/fivs6lYYd-U

      Reply
  163. Amanda on

    I live in an older home and have a leak coming from hot water supply line under kitchen sink. There isn't a valve to shut off the hot water. I have to turn it off at the hot water heater. The pipe looks cooper to me. It seems to keep coming loose. I hand tighten it at the top where it connects to the faucet. Sometimes I just push it up and that stops the leak but only for a few days then it does the same and leaks again. It's a bad leak hot water spews out flooding the cabinet and floor before I get to the water heater to shut it off. I have to keep the hot water turned off when I leave home for fear of it flooding when I'm not there. Does them seem like something I can fix myself?

    Reply
  164. Linzi on

    I have a friend who had someone add a basement bathroom for her. When it was all done and she turns on the water for the basement bathroom all of her water upstairs stops working. What do u think her problem may be?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Linzi, I wonder if she has an old house and galvanized piping if so she may need to replace some piping? She may have a bad pressure regulator as well but those would be the two things we would check for starters. I would say anytime you are running something and pressure drops as you use another fixture at the same time the two things above are most common problems.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  165. susan duffy on

    Just discovered a leaking pipe that leads into my house. It is dripping on the outside of our house at a rate of 8 ounces an hour. I do not know how long it has been leaking. Do you think it will be alright to leave it till tues. as no one will return my calls except answering service that says they can come over but will charge twice the service call ($320 per hour) for emergency call. All others are booked untill Tues.
    Thanks,
    Sue

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Sue, I'm sorry for the late reply my Dad had open heart surgery. The leak is very small and outside so your fine waiting!

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  166. Peter D McCabe on

    Had a new air conditioner transformer installed 3 weeks ago but had to go into my walk in closet to get a shirt and shorts and felt drops of water dripping from the new trandformer which was replaced, it stopped after the water in washer stopped. What is leaking?
    Appreciate Your help in advance.
    Peter D

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Peter, I'm not sure I totally understand what your saying? The washer machine should have nothing to do with the air conditioner unless the line is draining to the washer box. The only other thing is you may have a an automatic trap primer which drips when water is used to prime traps year round to prevent methane gas from entering the home through a trap.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  167. Ned on

    Upstairs neighbor and I share pipe top to bottom. The neighbors put eggshells down the garbage deposal and clogged our pipes. Call plumber her used a long snake unclogged. But two days later I noticed a lot of water under my sink. My sink stainer was knocked loose and leaking. No problem b4... Matter of fact, my new kitchen and internal walls are just 1yr 6months old. Did the snaking knock it loose?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Ned, I could see pipes possibly leaking from back pressure just like a sewer main stoppage with a wax seal leaking after it backs up. I don't see it knocking loose a basket strainer that would be going the opposite way of downstream where the stoppage was located and a cable has to go to clear the line. I guess if they worked underneath your sink and hit something with their body while working on the line under the sink but not sure where they performed work from your unit or upstairs.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  168. Julie Cabou on

    We discovered some small (1/4" diameter approx) plastic tubing protruding from our garage floor where the wall meets the floor. Clear liquid (presumably water) comes out of the tube from time to time (about enough to soak a paper towel in 2 days. But we have lived here a year now and did not notice it for the last 11 months. We just noticed it last month. Do you know why there would be this tube and where the *water* might be coming from? Thank you.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Julie, That's a tough one! I can't offer much to help with this one does your neighbors have anything like this? I wonder if it's just a dead end pipe and you have moisture wicking up from under the slab? If you can sleeve something down the pipe see how far it will travel?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  169. Jennifer Gutierrez on

    I live in a duplex, well my neighbor called our landlord and said he has a leak and ot seems to be coming from my tub,they checked my tub it had hair in it i have a trap over tge drain in my tub but anyway my tub was draining well before they took the hair out and that still didnt fix the issue well now he calls the landlord again a day later and says his tub has nasty water backing up in it like water with food and grease they fix the issue tge plumber says the plumbing is old and needs to be fixed my landlord tell me whh am i dumping food and grease down my sink now my kitchen sink has the x on the drain where barely any food can get through and i dump my cooking oil outside it had to be from what was left from a pan but even then i let my water run hot for a long while but now my landlord is charging me for the plumbing on my neighbors unit and mine whuch i think is not right...can you give me your advise please on my issue!?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Jennifer, If water is backing up into a tub the main line was clogged if food or waste was present. If the neighbor was draining fine and only yours was clogged the stoppage was with your unit only and the cause could have been buildup, roots, or anything even corrosion from an old line like cast iron? I really don't know the circumstances but sewer coming up in a tub is usually a sign of the entire line being clogged if you were not using the tub and just walked in the bathroom and found it full. The leak is concerning and probably from the backup which could have been a bad wax seal under the toilet or some thing that connects to the tub drain area.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  170. Laura on

    Hi there I have a cement slab with copper pipes for my plumbing whoever came up with this idea is stupid however I also have a circulating pump on my hot water heater so I can get instant hot water I have been told that that is a bad move to disconnect it because it will just make my copper pipes leaking again is this true should I not have a circulating pump with copper piping in a cement slab let me know please thank you

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Laura, I have installed recirculation loops underground for a long time. I see no reason to worry if Type L copper was used and insulated properly this saves water and who doesn't want hot water faster. I would be happy with a return system most builders never even give the option.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  171. Lily on

    Hi. I got rid of my old washer, but the hot water valve will not shut off the water, even though it's turned all the way off. I have to keep the main off at ALL times, or the water will come rushing out with such force that it will overflow a 5-gallon bucket in less than a minute (why doesn't my shower have such power??). Anyway, I'm planning on selling the house soon, so I'm not replacing the washer. Whoever buys the house will replace it.

    So is there a way to solve this problem without a plumber, considering I don't need to replace the valve? I've heard you can just "cap it off." How would that work? Even if I need a plumber, would it save me substantially if I requested that instead of a valve replacement? I just need my water back ASAP. I can't even turn it on for a second, because it floods my utility room. Thanks for your help!

    Reply
  172. Sally on

    Hi Dave,
    Four times in the past year, for several weeks at a time, the cold water intake filter on my washing machine clogs up with white, gelatinous goo. We have to keep cleaning the filter after every load for there to be any cold water coming into the machine. We have changed the hoses as well. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sally, I'm not sure of what your water source is but if a private well the below information may help. You may need some water filtering system to help with your issue but at least have your water tested. We use National Testing Laboratories.

      https://watercheck.com/collections/well-water-tests

      Iron Bacteria presents many problems, so an accurate determination of its presence is crucial to appropriate treatment. Iron Reducing Bacteria (IRB) cause aesthetic problems with the water such as taste, odor and staining of laundry and fixtures. The most common indication of iron bacteria in the water supply is a reddish-brown or yellowish gelatinous slime in water tanks, faucets, toilet tanks, and plumbing. These nuisance bacteria may cause corrosion to treatment equipment, clog screens and pipes, and have a foul odor. Here are a few of the common problems associated with Iron Reducing Bacteria: RED SLIMY DEPOSITS – Iron bacteria produce a sticky slime which is typically rusty in color, but may be yellow, brown, or grey. A “feathery,” or filamentous growth may also be seen, particularly in standing water such as a toilet tank.

      Reply
  173. Janette on

    Thanks so much for your reply, Dave. No, odor is not coming from anywhere else. Will take your advice and replace the toilets. And not pumice ever again.

    Reply
  174. Janette on

    I have well water that is treated with a Culligan softening system. I scrub my toilets weekly. Some years back, I pumiced the inside of my toilet bowls due to rings forming. Now, some years later, the toilet bowls smell. I used an immersion pump and pumped bleach throughout the underside of the bowl, thinking mold was growing inside the rim. I cleaned the tank with bleach. The smell is still there. Could the smell be from the porcelain worn away from the pumice stone, and bacteria is growing on the toilet bowl itself? At my wits end to find the source of the smell. Probably going to replace the two toilets. : (

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Janette, Are you getting a smell from anywhere else like the sinks? If not and its isolated to the toilets I'm in agreement to go ahead and replace them that was its all new and so is the wax seal underneath them.

      Reply
  175. Sarah Glindon on

    I have a combi boiler on my caravan the overflow pipe points straight down under the decking. It's had a slow drip since Eastereading but since the hot weather its been constant. When we put the shower on its Runs quickly. Please advise before I go to the plumber on site and get a large bill. Thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sarah, It may be leaking from thermal expansion or the relief valve just needs to be replaced and the spring is weak? I still think you should have a professional look at it when you talking about a boiler.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  176. I'm becca on

    Hey so we just moved into our single wife and haven't gotten electricity yet seeing as where in the mountains, but our water got hooked up . The only problem is sometimes the water smells terrible and leaves things smelling terrible like feces. Other times it's completely fine , what should I do ?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Becca, It sounds like you have a sulfur issue defiantly would recommend getting the water tested to know your water quality to address any needs. I have a link where you can purchase a testing kit and send back to the company for results. I would than consider having a professional tell you what you need to help with you smell or anything else pertaing to water quality.

      https://watercheck.com/collections/well-water-tests

      Reply
  177. April light on

    We have a delta bath faucet with a single control knob that has a separate temp control and pressure control both on the same knob. Now if we take the cartridge out of the control and turn the water on we get great water pressure and flow coming out of the faucet pipe to where it hits the back wall of the tub. But if we put the cartridge in we barely have any pressure and flow out of the faucet at all. We had fine pressure for years then just all of a sudden it got less and less only in our tub. So we replaced the cartridge and that didn’t do anything to change the pressure or flow. We get great pressure to the sinks in that same bathroom but just not to the tub with the cartridge in. Any ideas?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      April, The cartridge you have is pressure balanced when you pull the cartridge and turn it on do you feel hot water as well as cold. The cartridge has to have equal pressure but you may also have some clogged ports and can set up an air compressor from the tub spout and shower riser to clear things possably. If you had pressure before it will more than likely be some dibris. I have attached a thread in regards to your issure that may be helpful.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      https://www.plumbingzone.com/f7/delta-shower-valve-has-no-pressure-79849/

      Reply
  178. Tommy on

    Hello Dave,
    I am looking for a 'more flexible' kitchen sink sprayer. Current sprayer hose is very stiff, especially spraying cold water in the winter. I am afraid I am going to pull something loose. The only way I can get it to flex is to run hot water thru it to soften it up, then spray only tepid water, not cold. If I have to replace the entire faucet assembly, that is OK. Plastic hose or metal hose - whatever might work, I will try. Local hardware people look at me like I am crazy when I explain my problem to them. What do they use in North Dakota or Montana? Thank you so much 🙂

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Tommy, We are located in Charlotte NC so not sure what they use in North Dakota or Montana? I do feel like you can get a new faucet that would meet your needs. The hardware stores where we live have them on display so you can pay attention to the hose type. I like Moen faucets and they have a lifetime warranty!

      https://www.moen.com/kitchen/faucets

      Reply
  179. Tera on

    Hello Dave.i have some push self stoppage tap,can u advise me how to adjust the water flow on the tap please ? At the moment plumbers left it at too fast speed so need to decrease the flow

    Reply
  180. Janeen Fairchild on

    Help! Leak detection in drains...
    How can you locate slow drain leak seeping under flooring, and probably inside the wall behind kitchen cabinets!
    Can you locate without tearing the house up?
    Then can it be replaced with a bypass to avoid inner wall drain work? (The vent pipe is basically inaccessible.)

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Janeen, We have this happen quite often on cast-iron and galvanized arms the run from the vent into the sink. We find the waste arm rots out from sugar and grease mostly on the bottom of the arm. The way we fix this depends on the house structure. If you have a crawlspace or basement we just re-pipe the drain by drilling through the cabinet and installing a air admittance valve under the sink and disconnecting the old system by capping below. If your on a slab it's more difficult to access and repair but if the vent is on the dishwasher side we would pull the appliance and cut the drywall to try and provide repairs and sometimes back of cabinet.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  181. michelle davies on

    I have just moved into a flat I have only got a hot tap plumbed in to fill my washing machine, but only have a cold water pipe, can I use this cold pipe to hot tap? If not how do I fit a cold water tape,? I live in a council property, they won't fund it so need some advice, I only ever used it on a cold water fill in my old house?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Michelle, Not sure I'm totally understanding your question may want to call me on this?

      Thanks,
      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  182. Carolyn on

    Wow, thank You for the very quick response! I am now on the phone to see what stores have this in my area. Again thank you so much for this service.

    Reply
  183. Carolyn on

    Hi sure hope y/can help! Problem: kitchen sink/DW not draining. Drain pipe in basement runs on side of beam (attached w/Straps) 65 feet to the back main drain line. We tried everything, bladder, snake, etc. Finally had to cut the pipe 1/2 way and took it outside and cleaned All the disgusting gump out. We are a going to now reattach pipe and readjust pitch w/straps to hopefully not have this problem. Question is there such a thing as spraying silicone spray in pipe so gump does not stick again? Also final question can I put ridex down pipe once a month? Thanks for any help. Have a great summer

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Carolyn, We don't have anything you can spray in the pipe but would suggest pvc pipe versus cast iron when replacing the section. We would recommend Bio Clean or something similar used on a regular basis that eats waste and friendly on the system.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      http://www.bio-clean.com/bioclean/

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Beth, I would pull the shower head back off and check the water saver. We pull them out when we have pressure or flow problems sometimes just depends on how it's performing and you can also turn the valve on without the head installed to see if adequate flow is at point of use.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  184. Thomas I Pickens on

    Is it possible to install a propane water heater inline with my preexisting electric unit? Should I use a bypass, or is it okay to let the hot water run through it while not in use? Was slightly worried about dissolved solids. I have a 5 micron pre-filter.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Thomas, I would defiantly install a bypass you don't want to run the gas heater and have water travel through something just storing and not heating. If you are just wanting a back up heater if the gas fails don't let water travel through it just valve it off and drain it for future use if needed but only if not full of sediment. I would not want an old heater just sitting and than turn it on later for fear of sediment getting into the fixtures.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  185. Sherry on

    Just installed new 1/2 hp jetpump/tank combo and new 30g hot water tank...no air, lots of water, better pressure, but pump doesn’t shut off until water is turned off!!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Sherry, Have you installed a new pressure switch sounds like you have a new bladder installed with the jet pump?

      Reply
  186. Al on

    My mom’s outside water valve hookup is leaking. It is hard pipe/black pipe set up with a “t” pipe set up. Can I use a brass gate valve type? I am in central New York where it gets quite cold in the winter. She has always used an insulated piece that fits over shutoff valve in winter

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Al, A brass fitting or valve is fine to use and works well with dissimilar metals without causing electrolysis. I would defiantly insulate and possibly heat tape if exposed to environment.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  187. Cindy on

    Thanks Dave, really appreciate your fast response. I was hoping it was a minor problem with a small price tag to repair but now I know. Just have to start looking for a reasonably priced leak detection company in Dunedin, Fl. 34698

    Reply
  188. Cindy on

    Water heater makes running water noise when no faucets are on. Same noise in shower (only 1 of 2 showers has the noise) Shut off the water heater valve (top of heater) & breaker switch. Of course, no noise no hot water. My husband thinks maybe it's a broken pipe/leak coming from under the house. We had a broken pipe 10 yrs ago but we had hot water. (Major water bills made us aware of that problem.) What to do? Who to call? Please really need help. Thanks, Cindy

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Cindy, I agree with your husband it sounds like a leak on the hot water distribution system. If you have a water meter go see if its spinning when your not using anything and if it is spinning turn the hot water heater valve off go back to the meter and see if it stopped spinning. I would say if your hearing it while the hot water valve is on and don't when turning it off you have high probability of a hot waterline leak and would need a leak detection company to pinpoint so a repair can be made. We reroute lines sometimes versus chipping up the slab for repairs and remember you have already had a leak in the past so if achievable we would recommend re-piping affected line if at all possible.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  189. Jamie on

    Hello I just had my roof replaced and the guy said there is a crack in the water heater exauste flu pipe he said it's a double sleeve are these fairly easy to replace he didn't feel comfortable doing it.

    Reply
    • E.R. Services on

      Jamie,

      The vent pipe can be changed from below in the attic most occasions just depends on your roof line. It’s not a complicated procedure but need the roofer present if steep pitched otherwise the plumber or heating man can handle it.

      Reply
  190. Kathy & Kumar Das on

    Dave,

    We are planning to replace Gas water heater. This is a 40 gallons "State Select". The location of the tank is in the garage (Easy access). This tank is 13 years old and still functioning. We plan to use same hot water heater type perhaps the same capacity..

    What we need from you is the cost to replace which includes installation and removal of old tank. Also draw a permit for city to inspect. This might not be norm in North Carolina insception but it is requirement in SC. I didn't see any free estimate in your website. That is why I gave you specifications of the job. Please let me know.

    This is Located in Fort Mill SC

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kathy, I'm on vacation this week so don't have our pricing book. If you can call the office they can help with a price just make sure to give them the make and model and whether it vents through the roof or side of house. The office number is attached below and let them know you need permits and inspection being in SC location area. Any pictures would help as well..

      Thanks,
      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  191. Robert Thomas on

    Dave, within the past week we've replaced the American Standard diverter in our kitchen sink, but we're having problems.

    After repairing the leakage from the base of the swing spout with new o-rings, the old diverter began to send only a very small amount of water through the side sprayer nozzle. The pressure through the swing spout was now very strong; even after cleaning it, the old diverter continued to malfunction. We found and replaced the old diverter with an identical, new American Standard diverter. NOW, we have almost no pressure through the swing spout, hot or cold taps, but plenty through the sprayer nozzle... WTF??!! Help!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Robert, I'm sorry for the late response the backside of my site was down for security updates and could not access to answer. It really sounds like the diverter that's the only thing that could prevent transfer. I know you have already replaced so pay attention the cartridge as well that no obstruction exist. If you have water to spray water is at faucet level so these are the areas of concentration needed. I would also make sure the aerator is clean at spout.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  192. James Taylor on

    Can "not using" a water filtration system cause it to leak from the filter? I'm a renter and have not used the tap for the Culligan water system on the sink and the homeowner is trying to say its because we didn't use it that caused it to leak and cause water damage in the basement below the kitchen.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey James, I don't see this being your issue at all. The water lines should hold if installed properly and the drain connections as well even if an R.O System. You could also call the manufacture direct but that's like saying if you hade a guest bathroom and no one used the fixtures it would be your fault as well. I would personally fight it but would have to see what failed on it to give a certain diagnosis.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  193. Tracy on

    I have a slow drip coming from the tub in the guest bathroom. It was not high on my priorities to fix being that I recently purchased the house and have many other things to be repaired. Then I noticed that anytime another source of water in the house was being used, including simply flushing the toilet, a steady stream of water comes out of the tub faucet...which is in the off position. I'm not sure what the problem could be. I'm also concerned with the pool of water in the crawl space directly under that area! Help, I don't have a lot of money for repairs being I just spent my savings on purchasing the house. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Tracey, I would take care of the valve cartridge on the drippy faucet which should solve everything except why you have a pool of water under the crawl which would need to be looked at by a professional. If someone is hired for the valve have them look into the crawlspace leak at the same time so they can price what needs to be done.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  194. Andrea Olver on

    We recently had sewage backing up in our basement shower. We learned that the horizontal drainage pipe has "3 90's" causing multiple sites for soft clogs to happen. The plumber cleared the clog, but what is involved in replacing those 90's so as not to have this happen again?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Andrea, Any change of direction is better to have a combination fitting with a cleanout. I like using two 45's with make up a 90 and can be made with a longer radius turn. If you have accessibility the plumber should be able to change but make sure the pitch in the pipe is right which should be an 1/8 per foot. The problem must be on your main line heading to the city if the sewage was coming up in the lowest fixture in the basement. The fittings if under concrete would require cutting the basement floor or if outside excavating and hopefully proper fall can be achieved.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Chuck, I would start by replacing my shower valve cartridge but also make sure the head doesn't have a bunch of sediment in it slowing down the drain down when turned off?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  195. George Higgs on

    we had a leak in the outside water faucet on the side of the house , in order to shut off the water the company replacing the broken pipe had to locate the shut off valve which had been covered over when we had finished the basement , they cut into the wall and eventually found it but befire that they already found the main shutoff in the utility room . the problem is that they did fix the problem , however when they turned back on from the main shutoff the water returned to every area in the house except we had no water in the master bedroom bathroom toilet water worked in the sinks , tub , and shower i called them back to report it . that was at 8am this morning and its 2 pm and still no pressure or water to the toilet , can you give meany suggestions about what to do the plumber says it may be the fixture thats inside the toilet that clogged HElP

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey George, I would first check the individual fixture in this case the toilet. The water supply tube could be disconnected from the tank and tested from the angle stop to bucket or Tupperware to see if water is even getting through the supply line and to the fixture. You could also have a clogged angle stop so sometimes we have to make sure that's not the case and requires the house to be shut off and the packing nut removed on the valve? I feel like it should be isolated to the toilet by your statement above but who knows how it was plumbed if all the piping is in a wall or ceiling. The easiest thing is starting at the fixture first.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  196. Unknown on

    Hi the little white plastic thing behind the shower handle (price Pfister) is stripped. My handle fell off and I cant even use pliers to turn on shower. How can I replace that lil white piece?

    Reply
  197. Bob on

    I have a Roman Tub in the master bath upstairs it has a 2 handle faucett and a spout
    when both hot and cold handles have equal water pressure but the hot water side does not get hot only lukewarm after running for 10 minutes or longer. The shower which is right next to the tub has hot water as well as the 2 sinks. there is only one water heater to feed the whole hous. This stated afew months ago and the house is about 8 years old
    Any help would be greatly appreciated
    Bob

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Bob, If you only run hot water by itself does it ever get hot at all? If it doesn't it may be a piping issue. I would also check and see if anything is crossed in the house. The way to check is shut the hot water valve off at the water heater and go to the faucets. The fixtures should have no flow from hot side if still flowing from tub or any other fixture something is crossed in the house. You will have some drain down when performing the test but will subside and nothing should flow for any hot side faucet. The faucet may need a cartridge replacement or the handle checked to make sure its performing properly as well. The good thing is if it worked before its probably something to do with faucet itself unless you haave done some sort of renavation and plumbing was done?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  198. Gary Mandrell on

    I have a 4", schedule 35 lateral sewer line, connecting to the public main sewer.
    NO septic field. Just one 4' pipe.
    It is buried about 20" deep.
    Can I safely place an above ground swimming pool over this lateral line.
    The pool is 27' x 15' x 52"

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Gary, That's pretty shallow so worries me a bit can you offset the sewer line so its not underneath the structure? I would not feel comfortable with the weight of all that water with that shallow depth for fear the line would settle and belly?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  199. Alicia on

    Hi Dave, Looking for some guidance in troubleshooting a cold water faucet problem. In two of our sinks: one upstairs kitchen (with a one handle faucet) and one downstairs bathroom sink (two handle faucet) there is no cold water. In every other faucet, bathroom sink and outdoor shower there is both hot and cold water.
    Wondering if it’s just coincidental or a shared problem. Where should we look first? (Have replaced valve on one handle kitchen sink) Thank you!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Alicia, I don't know how old the house is but could be galvanized piping really depends when it was built? The line sounds as if its shares a branch to those particular fixtures are you able to see the piping and trace the line maybe in the crawlspace or basement. If your on a slab and everything is finished have these particular fixtures always had a problem or did this just start. I would turn the water main off and check the angle stops before connecting to the faucets and maybe point the supply tube in a bucket to see what the pressure is like before it reaches the faucet. If you have galvanized piping you may need to do some re-piping or if you have hard water and some fittings are clogged not sure if your on city or well but sediment could be an issue. It defiantly seems like you should hire a professional.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  200. Merry Sheehan on

    Thank you for your reply. You answered my question perfectly. The fact the Plumber didn't make sure the main stack was clear before pressurizing it is the caused the water exited by way of my drain pipe. The clog had gotten pushed right below where my drain pipes hook up to the main. Each unit has it's own pipes like legs off of a spider. After the incident is when I observed the Plumber in the hallway at an access hatch to the main stack snaking it to remove the clog.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Your Welcome! It makes since that he had to snake the main stack to clear which again means it's shared at some point and not your fault but an HOA issue in most cases. We perform a ton of management work and that's how most would look at this issue. You just happen to be the in a lower unit where everything ends up draining from the floors above.

      Reply
  201. Merry Sheehan on

    Hello, I own a condo on the 2nd flr of a 6 story high rise building. A unit on the 5th floor directly above mine was having a plumber trying to unclog the kitchen sink. Apparently he snaked the clog out of the unit's pipe into the waste main stack as far down as his snake would reach which was right below where my sink hook up is in the waste stack. My sink pipe was shut off and capped because I had removed my kitchen sink and counter to have a new one installed. All of a sudden I heard this loud rumbling inside the wall as if it was a volcano getting ready to explode which it did shooting water out at high force through my plumbing pipe. I freaked out and went running through the building on the floors above mine and found the Plumber running the faucet at full blast in the Unit. I asked him to shut the faucet off because he was flooding my unit. What did the Plumber do wrong and was he negligent and responsible for the damage that was caused in my unit? His insurance carrier said I have to prove he was the originator of the damage in order to cover the claim. I do have neighbors as Witnesses of the water bursting into my unit but that doesn’t make them an expert at proving it was caused by the Plumber working in the Unit above mine. What would be the proper wording with their written explanation supporting my claim and me proving the Plumber was at fault causing damage to my unit? Thanks, Flooded Unit Owner.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Merry, It sounds like the sink line was shared meaning a common line not an individual line. If the plumber was snaking the unit to unclog whether it was him or any other plumber we would have done probably the same thing ran a cable down the stack to clear. I think when it cleared it surged down the pipe and of course it had head height which creates the pressure. I feel your cap on the waste line must have blown off but you would have been able to tell that by looking under the sink after all this occurred. I'm not sure I'm stating all this right but if that cap was on properly it would have just came up to sink level and possibly avoided damages? I know you say you went upstairs and he was running water but all sinks should handle the flow and he would have had no idea something was going on below in all fairness in regards to a renovation or improperly glued or threaded drain arm that connects the sink. He probably just showed up to clear a simple sink stoppage never knowing you had a renovation going on below or whether the drain was capped properly as he only was concentrating on the task at hand. I would say if no one else below was having a stoppage or slow drain once that units stoppage cleared the shear force of it freeing and possibly being air locked caused quite a bit of water to flow all at once. I would tackle this a HOA issue meaning go the route of it being a common line and causing damage in your lower unit as it's shared. Yes, you were in the midst of a renovation but even without it being capped properly if that's the case things would not have happened if the line was in good shape below you. I always think of it like an artery after years of use and grease buildup can only handle so much volume at once and the building probably needs to treat the stacks with friendly bacteria enzymes that helps restore pipe diameter. The lower the unit the more chance of having an issue on a shared line as everything above drains to this area. I hope this brings some clarity and really don't feel the plumber did anything different than someone else would have? I say this was a building issue and the line is shared meaning the cost should be shared you were not doing anything in your unit at the time nor did anything break you were just the unit that sustained the water damage. So the shared pipe below your sink level was not handling a high volume of flow very well..

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  202. Ben Gutierrez on

    I have a Whirlpool water heater in the attic 40g. There is no cut off valve to the heater only incoming to the home. Tried to drain but only some water came out. The spigot is plastic and you have to use a screw driver to open it up. I tried using a hanger to move some sediment around but to no avail. My guess is to cut off the water to the house and drain all the water out however long it takes and then replace the drain valve?

    My house was made so that no one could do DIYs. I'm making progress though. Thnx and have a great day.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Ben, Be carful with the plastic drain valve especially in the attic. I sometimes have to pump the water from the top of the heater to be safe if your not comfortable call a professional on this one as you do not want any water damage from a bad or clogged valve drain. I will say when trying to drain make sure the home water is off because you don't have a heater valve and open the relief valve as flushing the unit so it's not getting air locked and that's why it's not draining well?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  203. Dave B on

    Have an important question please. My gas boiler knobs are in the correct open position. However, there are times when i see a small flood on the basement floor. This happens when the water in the sight glass goes all the way up. I do not understand why the water goes all the way up and then overflows. I thought if that happens, then the excess water would come out of the relief valve where my bucket is to catch any excess water. Thank you in advance for your assistance with my issue.
    Wednesday, April 25, 2018
    4:56 PM

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Dave, We aren't in the Boiler repair business our license cover installs only you need an HVAC contractor with proper credentials to answer or work on your system. I would not want to tell you something that's wrong but sounds as if it's over heating or expanding in some manner. I would call someone on the mechanical side of things in your area and ask for someone who knows boilers.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  204. Randy Clement on

    Hi Dave! I am wondering if my tub/shower valve can be converted to a shower only valve. I.e. eliminate the diverter so I can tile the wall and not have an unused diverter valve sticking out. Any input you may have will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your anticipated response!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Randy, When changing a valve from Tub to Shower the height is usually something changed and access needed through back of wall preferably but through tile wall works as well if replacing anyway? It sounds like you may have three handles because some diverters are built into the tub spout itself to transfer. I would suggest sending a picture but feel pretty sure you will need to replace the valve rough body in the wall and raise the height of valve to accommodate the proper height for shower only. If you were able to plug the diverter it would have to be deep enough in the wall to tile over once plugged and the threads of the valve would be hard to find a plug for they are usually fine and not iron pipe size. I hope this helps?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  205. Shirley on

    Hi Dave, I have a 40 gallon gas hot water heater that needs to be replaced. It is located in the garage on a metal box. It is a direct vent unit. Can you give me an all-in estimate of what it might cost to replace.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Het Shirley, I'm out of the office a few weeks had a back surgery. I would figure the $2,200 range supplied and installed with expansion tank but feel free to firm up the price by calling the office number below.

      Thanks,
      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  206. Marri on

    We have a tankless hot water heater. The hot water is coming out yellow (not the cold). We have been traveling and have had the water turned off and back on over the last year (away for a month, return, etc.). We do not smell anything, just yellow that will not go away. Any ideas?

    Thanks Dave!

    Reply
  207. Francis H OBrien on

    I have 2 vessel sinks with no overflow s they both have one touch popups the problem is very slow draining The u tube movies recommend the popup drains to solve the problem but I still have slow drainage can you recommend a solution?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Francis, The Vessel sinks are nice but can cause flow issues depending how they are casted. You don't want to loose the nice look of a vessel with a pop up and again that's not a for sure fix they have to handle the flow the steeper the drop the harder to maintain drainage. I would recommend lowering the house pressure or getting a lower flow faucet..

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  208. Dianne Gioia on

    Hi Dave
    I have hot water in tub & shower but not always in kit or bath sink unless I run hot water in tub. Hot water heater is almost years old (10 year warranty)with no leaks or rusty water.

    Reply
  209. Terry rose on

    Hello Dave I plugged my new hot water heater drain pan into my shop sink which they sit side-by-side with a downspout dishwasher hook up before the sink trap and I keep getting soap bubbles back up into my drain pan when I wash my hands in the shop sink what can I do without putting a check valve in there I don't think that will work

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Terry, The water heater drain pan connection should be one-inch in size and never reduced or directly connected with a dishwasher tailpiece it would never handle the load. If your worried about the water heater leaking and can't get the drain pan line to an outside termination point think about draining it into a condensate pump and having it pumped up to the sink if it ever leaked. You can also purchase a water cop alarm system that will automatically shut the heater down if it senses a leak.

      http://www.watercop.com/

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  210. Jim on

    Hello,

    I was looking at the water heater in a 50-year old home we purchased. The wh is about 8 years old and works well. It is in the basement laundry room. But, there seems to be excessive lines looping together and coming together before entering the cold side.

    A line drops from the ceiling 18", makes a short 90 (1st), then 90 again into a straight vertical drop of 36", It then has a short 90 run before going upward to the level of the 1st ceiling drop 90. Here, the line tees. One line goes back into the ceiling. The upward line continues from the tee to a point 10" above the level of the two side-by-side cold line 90s, then angles over and down to the cold connect on the wh. So, what the heck is all that about and do we have to live with it? Or, can it be redone in a less complicated configuration so we can reclaim some more wall space in the laundry room?

    Reply
  211. Lisa on

    Hello, I had a frost free water spicket installed, last year worked fine. It had to be installed upside down bc of the limited space below.
    This year I go to turn it on and nothing! No water, no leaks From the the pipe so it dont think it froze. There is no shut off valve so it’s not that!
    Could it be a bad facet? Or bc it was installed upside down ?
    Please HELP....

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Lisa, A frost free hydrant has to be installed properly to drain when shut off otherwise the water is stuck in the pipe and can surely freeze. We install them with a little pitch going downhill out of the faucet to release the water. If you are trying to turn it on and can't it may have split but you would not know it till it was turned on. If your able to turn the handle and no water flows the plunger or stem attached to it could be having an issue from winter damage. I would seek a professional out on this so no damage occurs. The water to the house needs to be shut down and the parts removed to inspect visually.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  212. scott on

    Hi

    I have a grundfos water pump and pressure tank and it just started spraying onto my basement floor. PSI is at 52. I turned it off and it stopped. What's your advice?

    Reply
  213. Michelle L. on

    Hi Dave, I own a condo on the top floor (2nd floor) of the building and a copper pipe that supplies water to a sink in the bathroom apparently was having a leak issue but the leak was not occurring anywhere within the confines of my condo unit. The pipe encountered a leak under my subfloor but in the ceiling of the unit below mine. The same thing happened about 9 years ago and it was discovered that the leak back then was the responsibility of the Home Owners Association because the leak was not occurring in my unit and the part of the pipe that was leaking was not in the downstairs unit either. The same thing has happened again and I opened a claim with my insurance since the owner of the downstairs condo did not seem remotely interested in filing a claim with her insurance even though I have NO damage whatsoever and my insurance contacted the owner and told her she needed to contact the HOA. Well, this past Saturday the owner of the downstairs unit had a plumber come out and they completely cut the copper supply line and capped it and now I have no water running to the sink in my bathroom at all. How is it possible that the owner of the downstairs unit has the authority to cut a water supply pipe and cap it instead of fixing the pipe. I have no access at all to the part of the pipe where the leak supposedly was and now that the pipe has been cut, there is no way of even seeing what that part of the pipe looked like. I own my condo unit and I was simply told the plumber would be out to shut off water in order to do repair work. Nobody once said the pipe was being cut and permanently capped. How can someone else authorize a pipe like that to be cut?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Michelle, I here your frustration and totally understand. The pipes that serve your unit must be in the below unit ceiling running horizontally and coming up vertical to serve the sink area. He would have had to shut the entire building off to accomplish this task if you never gave him access to your main water shut off valve. The only way you will be able to repair is coordination and approval with the unit below to run a new line to the sink. The HOA may have given permission if you weren't home or didn't provide repairs in a specific amount of time because they would have needed approval to shut everyone down or homeowners would have been mad without notification unless it was a blowout. I really don't know all the circumstances but have seen HOA's get involved if they could not get a hold of someone and damages were occurring for the sake of units below. I have even seen doors opened from locksmiths to stop damage from water heater and frozen pipes if owner or tenant could not be reached.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  214. Sharon on

    Hello Dave, my hot water heater only runs cold water, even from the hot water side. I have checked my breaker system and all are on. I have a small sized electrical system. Do you think that it's time to purchase a new system. Any ideas of what the problem could be?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Sharon, It sounds like the elements may be burned out and in need of replacement? I would also say if the water heater is 12-years old or greater go ahead and replace it. The thermostat may be tripped as well and may need to be reset which is located inside the top panel.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  215. Keith on

    We have a leak behind the wall of the tub when the faucet is turned on and it drips down stairs. I Cut a hole from down stairs to see where the leak is coming from but can't seem to tell where the leek is coming from due to boards in the way. I do know the pipes are above the boards. There is a closet behind the plumbing of the tub/shower. Should I cut a hole behind there or do you have an idea what could be leaking. Thanks.

    Keith

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Keith, I would not cut any more and concentrate at the fixture itself meaning the valve and trim areas. I would check the tub spout when transferred to shower and make sure water is not spraying backwards. I would check the gooseneck on the shower head to make sure its sealed good as well where it its sealed in the wall and also make sure your overflow plate and washer behind it is tight if tub is ever filled to that level. A good test it to run tub only and see if it leaks if it doesn't try the shower next. It may just be something that can be repaired from the bathroom itself.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  216. Janet Carstensen on

    Is it true that dishwashers, jetted tubs, (seals?) and pressure balance cartridges need weekly or monthly use for maitaining part longevity, or do they wear out with more frequent use?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Janet, Great question! I personally feel lack of use for a period of time will cause dry rot without greasing seals like cartridges but frequent use also has wear and tear. I would say Chlorine in the city water also has an affect with washer and seal failure along with the environment conditions. Tough question and could go either way

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  217. Katie Lench on

    Hi Dave we have no hot water in the bath kitchen sink or washbasin lost both cold and hot in bath Wed but came back Fri we have cold in all places

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Katie, It sound as if the only thing you don't have is hot water at this point? I would want to check and see if water still comes out the hot water side but is just cold when running and if that's the case start at the water heater. If no water comes out of the hot side of any fixtures you would want to check the cold water side at the heater at the valve entering, and the outgoing side of the heater to see if you have flow. If your not under any kind of renovation and no one has turned any valves on and off it makes me wonder if the well or city water is the issue while being repaired and created another problem with debris or something. I would call a professional on this one if you don't seem to be getting anywhere and also see if any neighbors have had any issues.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  218. Cheryl on

    I have a sink in the bathroom that omits a nasty smell. I use baking soda, vinegar and lastly bleach down the overflow opening. This smells comes in this time of year only. Please give me a pleasant smell solution.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Cheryl, First, make sure you have a proper P-trap installed under the sink. This trap holds water and provides a seal against sewer gases getting up into the bathroom. Without a P-trap, gases will leak in constantly, and will be displaced by water down the drain which can force the gases up into the bathroom even if normally it's not detectable. One more thing it could be is the overflow drain. Depending on the design of sink, the overflow can hold a small amount of water at the bottom where it T's in to the main drain, which can become stagnant. Run water down the drain and you'll force some air up the overflow (to make way for the water coming down), which will have that stagnant smell.

      To diagnose this, plug the sink and begin filling it; you shouldn't get any musty smell at first because there's no air movement. Once the water level hits the overflow drain, you will start smelling the musty smell for a while because the water is displacing the gas, which wants to rise above the water and so will move up into the bathroom. If this is the problem, you can ameliorate it with some foaming pipe snake; pour it down the overflow drain and it will clean out any caked-on gunk which contributes to the smell, and which may be trapping the water. The real fix is to make sure there's no "damming" effect of construction defects at the bottom of the overflow drain (a lip of porcelain, issues where the overflow meets the metal drain downpipe, etc).
      Does it smell when you turn on the tap and catch the water in a bowl (so it doesn't go down the drain)?
      If so, it's something in the faucet. Take off the aerator cap and look for gunk inside. If this doesn't work, it's something in the basin, drain, trap, venting, or overflow drain. I also recommend the following: Take out the drain stopper and look down the drain pipe for gunk. Clean it out with a snake or unraveled coat hanger if you can. I would also see if the sink is vented by means of an auto vent versus fresh air to outdoors they can fail mechanically and are usually installed under the sink and easily replaced if that's what was installed for you bathroom venting.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  219. Jackie Duick on

    Hi Dave this is Jackie Duick . I have been facing high water bills and of course the water co. is not at fault, yea right, I am using so they say 11,968 gallons of water in the last month. My yard guy does my yard every week and has not seen any indication of water problems when he mows.
    ]My water meter is as old as the house that was built in 1959 maybe that`s the problem. I realize prices go up but our first water bills were $18 to $25 now my bill is $73.89. There is no leak inside I have checked up and down stairs. Faucets outside do not leak or drip.
    I wash clothes every 2 weeks and do not cook because it`s only me. I drink bottled water. My bill last month was $59.76, also I have 2 septic systems and were taken care of in 2011 after my husband passed away. Any suggestions Dave to keep me from attacking the water co (only jest).
    Thank you Dave for your time.
    Jackie

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jackie, How is my favorite customer! We need to make a visit to the house and see what's happening may just be toilet related. You can put some food coloring in the toilet tank and see if it finds it's way to the bowl without flushing which would you have something leaking in the tank. We could also clock the meter and see if it's running with nothing in use. I would just give the office a call next week and let's see what the cause is if anything?

      Blessings,
      Dave

      Reply
  220. Michelle Davis on

    Hello Dave,
    I had a brand new water heater installed on February 19th by E.R. Plumbing and a few days later turned on my A/C. That is when I noticed the condensation pipe leading from the A/C is touching the new water heater. I have a photo. I placed my hand on the water heater and there is a slight vibration in the water heater when the AC is running and I am concerned -- will this affect the new water heater in a negative way? I contacted E.R. Plumbing and was told a technician will come back to make an adjustment on the pipe. Will this adjustment be on the water heater pipe or the condensation line? Thank you.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Michelle, I looked at the pictures and it looks like its just touching the relief line of the water heater. It would not have any affect on the water heater but could cause a vibration noise and that would be a nuisance. We will offset the relief line or bump the heater over some which is and easy fix but your fine and the office has you reached out to you for sometime this week I'm told. It's a tight space but we can make it better so you don't have to worry, but it's not hurting anything to answer your question and we will take good care of your concern..

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
      • Michelle Davis on

        Dave, thank you for this information and it does seem the A/C is running a bit louder than usual. I made the appointment to have it adjusted this week and I appreciate your concern and the quick response. Thanks!

        Reply
    • David Parker on

      Perfect! You can do that so sounds like you did a great job. I know the braided supply lines don't always reach the angle stop but can fit right on the compression coupling and you can extend with copper like you did on the other side.

      Reply
  221. Peter smith on

    To whom it may concern.i installed 2 3/8 brass compression coups on my kit faucet water lines I used 3/8 copper tubing to stops. Can the coup come apart under pressure thank you

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Peter, We use brass compression couplings all the time when needing to extend the lines on supply tubes. As long as you installed copper to copper your fine! If you went copper to plastic you would need a different feurrel to tighten things up.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  222. Dawne on

    Hi Dave, we had a leaky bathtub spout so we replaced it, some time later we installed a New shower head and then the spout started to leak again so we replaced the faucet again that was about 2 months ago now the spout started to leak again

    Reply
  223. Jana Jamieson on

    Near the top of the water softener tank, it is hissing 24/7. I believe it was quiet before. It does make a louder noise around midnight when it is circulating. Is it supposed to be quiet?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Jana, I would make sure the discharge tubing is not kinked or obstructed. I would see if you can see the end of the drain line and if water is constatly draining? If it is draining all the time the control valve is not holding tight and need to be addressed..

      https://youtu.be/M1gO4DLuE6o

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Raymond, Sounds like you may have to replace that cartridge but could also have galvanized piping and need to address the line itself? I would say its really hard to tell without being onsite but that would be two-things it could be. I would look at the type of piping you have first if you have a basement or crawlspace before addressing the cartridge.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  224. Carolyn Brown on

    I am getting ready to purchase a home and in one of the showers the sellers had installed a hand held shower head and the hose comes from within the wall. Since they did this the existing fixed shower head no longer functions. How do I fix it so that both shower heads will work?

    Reply
  225. Joe on

    My friends mom lives a older mobile home they were telling me that they had no water in the kitchen which is at one end of the house straight back is the bathroom almost to the other end when looking under I found the water leak I noticed that it had galvanized pipe in it that was the first time I've seen that in a mobile home my question is is that one long piece of pipe all the way back to the bathroom or is there connectors in between so many feet

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Joe, That's a tough question without looking underneath? I would try and trace the line if you can see it but sometimes it's hidden with insulation around it under a mobile home. If the house doesn't have anything else going that direction it could be just a branch but pay attention to where hose connections and fridge connections are located. The galvanized is defiantly and will continue to be an issue especially with age.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  226. Jackie Mendow on

    I have a well my house is above ground I lost water 3 days ago after a freeze been Sunny for days I have water everywhere but my kitchen please help!!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Jackie, If you lost water to the whole house and know only the kitchen is down is it on an exterior wall and is the temps still cold where you live? If you have water everywhere else make sure the kitchen door is left open and maybe use a heat lamp. If you touch the pipes coming out of the wall are they cold? You may have some other underling issue if freezing isn't the cause and it could be faucet related if both hot and cold aren't working. you could turn the valves off underneath the sink and disconnect the supply lines from the faucet and point them in a bucket to turn on and see if you have flow up to the faucet itself.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  227. Jackie MendowJackie on

    I have a well my house is above ground I lost water 3 days ago after a freeze been Sunny for days I have water everywhere but my kitchen please help!!

    Reply
  228. Jaime Schulte on

    Hi DAve, I bought a house with a well about 3 years ago. When i bought the house it had propane and i have since replaced that with natural gas and replaced the water heater. I noticed when i bought it that there was a 3 gal electric water heater in the basement below the kitchen, never really thought much of it. Well now i am finishing the basement and the 3 gallon water heater is a nuisance so i removed it and capped the lines. It was fed from the main hot water line and went through the water heater and Tee'd back into the hot water main. When i capped it i lost all hot water pressure in the kitchen and bathroom(furthest points from main water heater). Why is this? Can i do something without re-installing the small water heater? I am scratching my head over this. Please help

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Jaime, I would say further testing is required. It sounds as if the kitchen sink area and bathroom were always an issue even before house purchase. The issue could have just been at some point length of time it was taking to get hot at furthest fixtures form large heater. I would want to cut the hot line and install something like a hose connection to check the pressure before it ever went into the small water tank? The issue could be sediment no telling how previous owner took care of sediment. We see well water lines and fittings completely clogged with sediment so tracing back to a fixture that is working properly if you have basement access is the first thing worth checking and re-piping from that point to kitchen and possible bathroom or vise versa. I'm not sure how the distribution lines run but if overhead and to kitchen first than bathroom try and get pressure to kitchen first if that is achieved the bathroom will be resolved as well possibly? If piping is galvanized that is another issue but sounds like hiring a professional to trace down where the pressure drops would be the first thing we would check. The more pressure achieved the faster the hot water will get to point of use..

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  229. CHUCK MCDERMOTT on

    Hi Dave,
    I have been in my house for over 36 years with a well. I have never had a problem except a cracked pipe at the last pipe connecting to the well pump. Had that pipe & the pump replaced and everything has been fine. In the last couple months I have noticed when showering that the water flow decreases significantly and after 20 to 30 seconds return to full flow. A few days ago after flushing the toilet the water that filled up the bowl was yellow with initially no other yellow water. A half day later the water coming out of the kitchen sink was also yellow. Two days later the weater is all clear again. Should I be concerned that I may have signs the well getting low on water supply?
    Thanks,
    Chuck

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Chuck, I'm not sure but sounds like the pressure switch is acting up and maybe the expansion tank needs to be checked. I would think you have a sediment filter on the system as it leaves the reservoir tank? It sounds like its depleting the reservoir or getting close to it before it contacts and fills the tank again. The water at the bottom of the expansion tank gets pretty bad remember its not filtered. I would have a professional look at it you could also have a leak on the riser pipe?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  230. cary silver on

    hi Dave

    my name is cary silver and I have a question about a problem i am having in my one bathroom lower level of house in a grade entry split level home.

    The hot faucet is running hot water but very slowly the cold water faucet is ok. what can I do to troubleshoot problem. all other faucets throughout house are all running fine. Thanks for your input.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Cary, I'm not sure where you live but if this happened during all the cold weather its probably frozen. The hot will actually freeze faster than cold and maybe that specific area is near an exterior wall. I think running it would help it eventually get to speed thawing but don't leave the house with it on. The only other thong it could be is cartridge related, galvanized piping, or the angle stop and supply line having debris in it? I would think frozen if in a cold area and just on the hot side so keep letting it run.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  231. Daisy on

    Hey Dave I have a quick question, I live in a mobile home & for some reason our master bathroom shower has always had low cold water pressure. It has a 3 knob faucet in the tub/shower. I already took the hot/cold diverter out and checked it and it’s fine. I took the stem out of the cold water side and it was a very low flow compared to the hot side. There are no leaks under or in the mobile home. It looks like galvanized pipe that was used. What else can I do to remedy the problem I’m kind of tired of taking super hot showers and scalding my buttcheeks ever time I shower . Thanks in advance .

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Daisy, It sounds as if the galvanized piping would be the issue if that is indeed the pipe you have? I would replace the pipe to the shower diverter you will never get water restored if galvanized is the issue. I like the test you did so you just need to bring a new line up to the cold side of the valve to remedy and may want to include the hot while your at it if a wall has to be open for access? I would have to think both are galvanized and will fail at some point and would not want to open the wall twice. You could install and access panel for future use if you did just do the cold or wanted to change the entire valve at some point?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  232. Kelsey on

    Dear Dave, first Thank You for your GO TO website. I have searched everywhere for answers!
    My husband took apart our antique porcelain shower head that goes with our clawfoot tub. He cleaned it
    & replaced it bright & shiney. Now it has no pressure at all and just runs out the bottom of the head! HELP please! How does he get pressure back into the shower head so it will spray again. Thank you!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kelsey, I would remove the head and just hold the hose in the tub without the porcelain shower head installed. If you have water coming out of the hose he has done something to the head maybe check and make sure that the washer that sits between the head and hose is installed? If its spraying where the screws together something is blocking the head creating backflow pressure or the washer was never installed that seals the connection and that's why it sprays everywhere?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  233. Veronika Freeman on

    Hi,
    Googled my question and saw your site, like what I've read so I have a question.
    My water in the entire house stopped flowing 13 days ago. Yes, in Upstate NY we've had single digits and below for several days - but we've live here since 2009 (-50 the day we moved in, and no one had been here running water for months) and have NEVER had any freezing issues.
    Called plumber and he tried to than pipes inside (none frozen). He went out to look at well and we noticed the lid was not fully on and there was frost in the well, so I'm immediately thinking that well pipe is frozen.
    Does he try to thaw it? NO! He sends his guy to get a new cellar pump to try, then when that's not the issue suggests we could jettison the line but that it WILL refreeze and so we should put in a submersible pump in the well (for $2000) and excavate the yard to lay new pipe deeper down. I think our pipes are already 3-5 feet down - AND - they run under the garage and driveway I'm guessing - as this house was built in 1820 and the straight line between both goes under much newer garage and paved driveway.
    Am I correct in thinking that probably if we jetted the line (either with another plumber's help or youTube video) closed the well tight, put a box with insulation in it over the cover, and let water drip when it's going to be sub zero temps - that we should be ok, as we've never had an issue before?
    He is stoning me, he is obsessed with the fact that the line WILL freeze again and we basically need to spend thousands of dollars to alleviate this issue.
    Thoughts? I'm ready to do something myself....

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Veronika, I don't see how a line could be jetted unless it's sewer and were talking about a well system. Have you thought about a larger Hot Box either built or bought with a heat lamp and maybe some heat tape and thicker insulation? I don't see doing anything so extreme without protecting first to the best of your ability. I'm sure others in the neighborhood have the same setup so look at theirs as well and see how yours measures up when it comes to frost protection.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
      • Veronika on

        Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! I'll start by asking my neighbor, who's been here at least 40 years... and hoping to have a "well guy" take a look this week.
        V-

        Reply
  234. Veronika Freeman on

    Hi,
    Googled my question and saw your site, like what I've read so I have a question.
    My water in the entire house stopped flowing 13 days ago. Yes, in Upstate NY we've had single digits and below for several days - but we've live here since 2009 (-50 the day we moved in, and no one had been here running water for months) and have NEVER had any freezing issues.
    Called plumber and he tried to than pipes inside (none frozen). He went out to look at well and we noticed the lid was not fully on and there was frost in the well, so I'm immediately thinking that well pipe is frozen.
    Does he try to thaw it? NO! He sends his guy to get a new cellar pump to try, then when that's not the issue suggests we could jettison the line but that it WILL refreeze and so we should put in a submersible pump in the well (for $2000) and excavate the yard to lay new pipe deeper down. I think our pipes are already 3-5 feet down - AND - they run under the garage and driveway I'm guessing - as this house was built in 1820 and the straight line between both goes under much newer garage and paved driveway.
    Am I correct in thinking that probably if we jetted the line (either with another plumber's help or youTube video) closed the well tight, put a box with insulation in it over the cover, and let water drip when it's going to be sub zero temps - that we should be ok, as we've never had an issue before?
    He is stoning me, he is obsessed with the fact that the line WILL freeze again and we basically need to spend thousands of dollars to alleviate this issue.
    Thoughts?

    Reply
  235. Brent on

    Hi Dave. I can understand charging a dispatch fee for emergency repair, but I was surprised to find out you charge a $69 fee to come out for a scheduled consultation for a whole new water heater system. This would be a job worth several thousand dollars. The other company I called (I want two quotes) does not charge for that. So this is really just more of a comment: if you are able to schedule a job a few days out for the chance to install a fairly complex water heater system, I think your chances are greater of getting that business if you don't charge for that, since most companies, regardless of industry, don't charge people for providing quotes. The reason is that if your quote is wildly out of line, or your tech is unable to offer a good solution, your potential customer just wasted $69 and is left with a bad taste in his/her mouth. Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Brent, I really appreciate your reaching out and personal take on the service fee. We have a ton of internet companies now advertising like Home Advisor, and Google Home Services that get multiple quotes which is great and understood for the homeowner but we as a company pay for that lead. We cannot however justify running around doing competitive quotes with such magnitude for free or see treating anyone any differently as our costs start as we answer phones, pull permits, and dispatch guys while fueling up the truck and some days run an hour away. We have charged dispatch fees for years and if it was a major issue we would have to adjust to the market or wouldn't be in business. We however have a high closing ratio because we charge a fair price and our reviews across multiple platforms speak for themselves. If any of our clients were upset with me or my quotes in any way, or we were way off another contractors price comparable to our size we would always gladly give back that fee no question asked. All we want to do is create Raving Fans, provide remarkable service, serve our community, and personally lead from the heart. I know what others charge around the area for certain tasks because it's my 20th year in business in the Charlotte region. We have a high closing ratio because were almost never as high, and even if we were my team adds the extra perception of value because we are true pros and plumbing is all we do. The clients end up saving way more than a dispatch fee we have seen the quotes and hear the stories. My techs and staff are well trained and taken care of that's why we have no turnover and the proper techs out serving you. We actually have some techs that have been around 19-years basically since inception. We serviced over 8,000 clients last year just imagine if a big portion of that was for free? How would we profit and how would the guys have good health insurance, pay, and benefits to keep them around. The client who balks at the $69 service fee misses the value we bring to the table and basically end up paying more because they felt the fee was unjust and never get the chance to experience our value or find out what the price would have been. I see it as a cost of doing business with a reputable company that always takes care of his team, clients, and community. "We do truly Care" and your opinion has been noted and is respected.

      Blessings,
      Dave

      Reply
  236. Grey on

    Frozen pipes? Maybe?

    We came home after being gone for a week (it’s been very cold) and all our water is working EXCEPT the second of two shower heads on our master bath.

    Hot and cold work everywhere else in the house, including the sink and other shower head in the master.

    But the second shower head (farthest from everything closest to cold) only gets about half the volume of hot water and no cold water at all.

    I shit off the cold to th bathroom and am letting the hot run but nothing is really changing.

    No idea where the pipes run between the two— but no water leaking in the house and had good water pressure everywhere else in the bathroom.

    So... now what?

    And the shower heads have one handle — all the way on is hot barely on gives you some cold.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Grey, The pipes defiantly froze and the valve must be on an exterior wall or your on a crawlspace and an air vent is close to the pipes serving that particular head. I'm not sure where your located but hopefully the temps start rising back up this week. I would think maybe putting a space heater in the shower area on extreme nights would keep the walls warmer because what you now know is that side of the wall gets colder for some reason which could be how it was insulated during construction? The pipes are supposed to be installed on the interior side of the wall with insulation placed behind the wall.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  237. Kate Gill on

    HI, a few weeks ago my kitchen sink backed up with my upstairs neighbor's dishwater. When she ran her dishwasher, my sinks overflowed. The landlord called a plumber who rooted out my sink, there was no clog.

    Then the plumber said the problem was outside and the pipes leading to the sewer needed to be repaired because they were not draining into the sewer. They came back, dug up outside and fixed the pipes, I assume?

    Last night, I heard a gurgling sound again from my kitchen drain, While there is no backup or flood in my kitchen sink, if I peered into the drain with a flashlight, I could see water below, and steam rose from the drain as if from a hot dishwasher cycle.

    I"m afraid they didn't really fix the problem and I'm going to flood again. Thank you any help is appreciated.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kate, Any gurgling is of concern! I don't feel like the outdoors would have been where the issue would have been because that should be the main line heading to the city lines. The internal branches run under the slab, crawlspace, or basement in most buildings and the sewer main runs outside. I would be cautious for sure if the problem was outside and feel the bathroom toilets and showers would show signs first because they are the lowest fixture rims when working on something outside. Think about it if the sewer main was stopped up outside what is the closest rim to the floor in the house its never the kitchen sink that's an area much taller than a walk in shower, tub, or toilet rim. I'm not saying another issue wasn't present but don't feel good about what your telling me. I feel the kitchen stack and horizontal line underneath would be where the issue was and they snaked it in your statement but feel they may need to do it again. I would have them back out if any more gurgling is going on for fear of running over and having a shared stack. The shared stack means the neighbors above could run their sink and dishwasher and it could come up in yours if the stoppage is underneath your unit somewhere and clogged? I don't naturally know everything and why they did whatever outside but would just watch out for gurgling that is out of the norm!!

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  238. Fernando Silveira on

    Hi Dave,
    I am having issues with my gas hot water boiler. I crank the thermostat all the way to 80, but it only warms up to about 65. I checked the water temperature, and it marked 185 degrees. Then I assumed that was the reason and opened up the small box near the boiler and moved it to 220 degrees. However, it does not go up.
    The pipes near the boiler are extremely hot, and the baseboard units in the rooms are hot as well. The circulator pump appears to be good. The zone valves are brand new. I have noticed that the flames come out of the little compartment where the pilot is. Do you think it might be sooted up and that could be the reason the water is not warming up past 185 degrees?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Fernando, I would want to make sure no crossovers are happening by testing. We see check valves fail or not get installed properly all the time which can cause mixing and inability to get to temps. I would hire an HVAC man capable of working on boilers license wise to help you get to the bottom of the issue and provide maintenance as well if soot is noted or it hasn't been maintained.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  239. Brandon Wade Frampton on

    Hi Dave.
    Will hot water redirect into the cold water supply if pipes are frozen?
    Had a freeze and using portable heaters to heat up wall. This trick has worked in the past. Today, tried same thing. Only our cold water is coming out VERY hot. Lines have not been swapped and no work has been performed on HW tank.
    Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Brandon, Hope you had a great Christmas! It could cross over in the cartridge that is a possibility but not very common. It sounds like you are doing the right thing with the room heaters. I would say if that particular sink always freezes up more of a stream be left running on cold nights versus a drip and of course keeping the cabinet doors open. I would say when water is restored shut the hot water heater valve off only and see if all hot water side of faucets shut down properly to test for any crossed lines nothing should come out after drained down? The other thing would be if you had a Grundfos Comfort system for faster hot water the bypass under the sinks are meant to cross over?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  240. Regina Ray on

    Question: I live in a condo and one of the residents in unit 205 hears water gurgling in her sink when the resident in unit 305 uses her washing machine. The resident in 305 does not hear anything. Who's responsibility is it to find the cause? What could the problem be?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Regina, Anytime your hearing gurgling its not a good thing and should be checked out by a professional. I sounds like you share the same stack and would be interesting to know what's going on in unit 105 below as everything travels downhill. I would see if the HOA would handle the issue because its a common shared line. I would snake from the unit 305 in this case before damage occurs below in one of the units and again check the lowest unit and see what they are saying as well.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  241. Glenn on

    Dave: I had a leak in my shower when the Delta diverter spun around instead of being in the tub or shower setting. I also have hot/cold turnoffs. I paid a plumber over $400 and he said the head of the diverter in the wall was worn and he had a hard time connecting to the handle. He said he should cut thru the wall to do it right but did not have the time. He somehow got it to work. A month later I have water in my family room below. Get a new plumber or call the one I used? Do I have to have the wall cut open? We just had the bathroom and bedroom on the other wall painted.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Glenn, If I'm understanding you right you have three handles and the one in the middle is the diverter transferring from tub to shower. I would think you could order new cartridges and handles if needed without going into the wall. I would need to see a picture to help further but we do at times have to replace valves from behind the wall. I would read the companies reviews when choosing whom you hire but in his defense it sounds like he was upfront telling you it really needs to be replaced and from what your saying above he wasn't very confident in his repair? I don't like the fact that he didn't have the time nor confidence in repair and now you have damage. A second opinion never hurts or asking if the company you used would be willing to discount the new valve with the damage that occurred from his last repair.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  242. sherry mcclain on

    I have residents that have no cold water flow in shower only.the tub is seperate it has cold.I removed the pfister shower valve thinking it was the problem but there is no cold water to manifold .its a very short distance from tank to shower,new property no buildup.i have even blown nitrogen thru lines but did not work.it is an electric water heater with expansion tank. Do you have a suggestion?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sherry, It sounds like the loop from the manifold is not connected? I hate to say this but if absolutely no water is coming out of the cold side shower only and never has you may need to cut the wall and trace the line with an electrical fish tape. The fish tape will lead you to the area it was supposed to be connected to and you may have to open that wall to tie it in? If the tub is close and accessible maybe you can connect at that point. I like to find the closest area where hot water is located and just re-route or trace where the current line is ran to identify the issue. The water need to be off while pushing a fish tape through it just in case it breaks something free?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
      • sherry mcclain on

        actually it hasnt always been this way,everything worked fine till a week ago. i see no sign of water intrusion anywhere down below or elswherre

        Reply
        • David Parker on

          Sherry, I would clock the meter to see if it's spinning when not in use to verify nothing underground is leaking? I would turn the water off to the house first and pull the cartridge to the problem shower. I would turn the water to the water heater off and have someone in the bathroom watching. I would turn the house water back on without the cartridge installed keeping the valve on the hot water heater off and see if any water comes out of the valve body. If the individual says water is coming out something is going on with the cartridge if water was present before?

          Thanks,
          Dave

          Reply
  243. Linds on

    Hi Dave, my hot water circulator seems to be erratic. The box is running, the clock is right. Some sinks get instant hot but not always.
    Could the variable be we drained the hot water heater incorrectly a few days prior?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Linds, I have attached the installation manual for the grundfos comfort system if that's what you have? The Watts system would operate the same way but not sure what brand you have or if you have a real return line? If you have the bypass type please refer to page 4 of the manual attached and test. The draining of the heater could have caused an issue if the pump was running and no water was in the line? If you have a real return line with an aqua stat or timer system a check valve may be bad.

      https://us.grundfos.com/content/dam/GPU/Literature/COMFORT/LUPTL043-1005-ComfortSystem-I%26O.pdf

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  244. Jess Mclellan on

    I live in a group of 3 units and whenever any of the 3 units uses the cold water or flushes the toilet there is a loud ongoing groaning noise in my bedroom wall/ceiling. The usual plumber is not sure where to look since all 3 units are making the same noise.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Jess, It sounds like the building pressure regulator or some of the toilet flush valves are acting up? I would start with the water main if all three units are making the noise and see if they have the regulator. I would say if it wasn't doing it before it should be something that can be figured out.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  245. Sarah on

    Why are the kitchen and downstairs bathroom faucets not running nor are toilets flushing but downstairs bathtubs and showers as well as upstairs bathroom sink and tubs running fine??

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sarah, Not sure the age of the house but sounds like you could have a water distribution problem. Is it the hot or cold side or is it on both? Do you live in a cold climate where freezing cold be an issue.

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Viv, I almost sounds as if a toilet is re-filling and the flapper that connects to the chain is leaking? I would check each toilet you can use food coloring and put some in the inside of the tank to see if it shows up in the bowl. If it does the flapper needs to be replaced your loosing water.

      Reply
  246. Heather McLeod on

    I have a hot & cold fill washing machine which is great. However, my hot water tank burst & I have been left with just cold water. Can I still use my washing machine as normal?

    Reply
  247. Gina Hyatt on

    A plumber replaced the diverter in the shower. Ever since, after a shower I hear water gurgling in the pipe in the wall. I loosened the connector that holds the shower head to the pipe and water came rushing out of the faucet. Every time the shower is used, I loosen the connector to let the water out. Forgot to loosen it after a shower and the next day water came gushing out of the faucet with great force. Can this damage the pipe? Should I have the plumber back? Should he repair at no cost to me?
    Thank you,

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Gina, If it were my plumbing business and one of the techs worked on the shower cartridge and ever since you were having issues. I would expect you to call so we could make it right. I'm not sure what the original issue was or if that part is fixed but we surely wouldn't want you dealing with something that wasn't happning before. I would recommend at least calling if he has a reputable company he will give you honest feedback. I don't feel your damaging any piping but it needs to work properly and clearly something your not use to is happning.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  248. Ed Kaiser on

    Grundfos recirc pump with under master bathroom transfer valve in conjunction with Moen posi-temp cartridges throughout. Getting cross over at faucets, these two not compatible?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Ed, The comfort system will allow water to travel through the cold side that's how it returns. The water should be hot on the cold side for a brief amount of time and than end up being full cold. If you have cold crossing into the hot that would be an issue creating warm water or having a problem achieving hot water now. I would turn off the angle stops under the sink where the bypass is installed and see if it's still crossing. I would than shut down the water heater valve only and open any hot side faucet no water should run from any faucet hot side when valve at heater is off. We have had some bad shower cartridges causing crossover but not frequently and Moen is a good brand so should not be any issues that can't be rectified.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Charlette, Using enough boiling water to unclog a drain could damage your pipes. Unless you use gallons of boiling water, it's going to cool off as it flows down a room temperature plumbing system. If you do use gallons of boiling water, you are likely to distort the tubular drains and their seals under the fixture. We all pour some boiling water down the drain at some point so moderation is key.

      Reply
  249. Melanie Patterson on

    Hello Dave, I recently pulled the outdoor water spigot out of the ground. It is connected to the main water line that enters the house. The spigot was fixed and it has pressure. The water pressure inside the house is very low to all connections. I am sure that debris entered the line and is what is causing the low pressure. All filters have been removed to sinks but pressure is still low. Is there a way that I can get the debris out of the line using the outdoor spigot? This is where it entered the water line.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Melanie, You may have a pressure regulator on the house main that is the issue and would catch a lot of the debris if the line was broke? If that was the case you would remove that and probably install a new one which would be located near the main water shut off or under the crawlspace if you have one? I would say if you don't have a PRV valve it will get tough blowing the lines out if your tackling yourself. We sometimes have to remove the valves or cartridges to rectify any pressure issues.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  250. will huffman on

    Hey Dave, I have a ball valve on the main water supply line inside my mfg. home. it has started whistling when I use water. I can shut the valve off and it will stop, or i can wait appox. 30 seconds and it will stop on its own. Does the valve need replacing? Thanks!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Will, It actually sounds like you may have a pressure reducing valve somewhere making that noise which would be a more common occurrence than a main ball valve whistling? I'm not saying that can't happen but would see if you have one on the home which is usually close to the main valve, under the home, or near the water meter?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  251. ryan casper on

    Hi,

    I wanted to see if by chance your company is bidding this job, Holler & Dash 2725 South Blvd. Charlotte, NC. 28209. We are still accepting bids until noon tomorrow (Oct. 18th).

    Ryan Casper
    JOMCO Construction Inc.
    Project Estimator
    678-725-1803

    Reply
  252. Marsha Sweet on

    Our house was built 8 years ago & we have low volume toilets. Two of them are making a noise we are called phantom flush. We did the food coloring test & there is no leak into the bowl and the flapper is tight. What else could be causing this noise?
    Thank you

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Marsha, I'm sorry was in the mountains over the weekend. We call a phantom flush when your just sitting around and hear the toilet refilling. The cause of this is always do to loss of water in the tank. The flush valve mechanism may need a new diaphragm. I would also pay attention to the pressure in the house which should not exceed 80 PSI and the temperature of heater. We have some valves out in the market that serve as expansion valves and will release when steam rises and gets into the cold water distribution system. If that was the case you would just change the type of flush valve and get an expansion tank installed near the water heater on the cold water line to solve expansion a different way.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  253. Christina on

    Hi my plumber poured something in area of the pipes in front of the house In regards to some roots down there from an old tree we dug up... He told me not to turn the water on for 5 hours.... After the first hour I'd forgotten and turned the water on for about 20 seconds... Will what the plumber poured down not work now?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Christina, He probably poured a product down the drain like RootX which foams up and is better applied at night so you don't rinse it out. The product kills on contact but doesn't remove roots right away and will grow back at some point. I would recommend repairing whatever is broken causing the issue but would not worry about accidently forgetting.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  254. Linda Gutierrez on

    Hello Dave. I have had 4 foundation pipe leaks in the past 6 months. At this point I'm just want to call a quits with the house but why does it keep happening? What should I do just replace all the pipes ? And the insurance doesn't cover it is there a way they can? Thank you so much in advance i appreciate your time and advice.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Linda, I'm not sure what type of piping you have but surely sounds as if a re-pipe is needed. The insurance will only pick it up if damage is visual in the home so doubt anything under the slab would be covered. I know of nothing you can do short of replacing and would not want to be afraid to leave the house for fear of an above ground leak because the same type of pipe is used above and below in most occasions. The reason it's happening is dependent on type of pipe and water system meaning well or city serving the house and quality of water?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
      • Linda Gutierrez on

        Thank you for your response. The pipes are copper the house is like 20 years old they say that the reason it's happening is because the foundation is settling in and putting pressure on the pipes. They recomend me to re-pipe through the attic do you agree? And re-pipe in that kind of plastic . I assume it's a city line.

        Reply
        • David Parker on

          Linda, I don't know that I would say it's from settling? I would say they may have used type M copper and not sure if you are on well or city water. if you have a well the PH level may be low and needs a neutralizer? The attic would be the way to go if one-story and on a slab foundation with insulation installed on anything in an unconditioned space.

          Reply
  255. Joyce on

    Hi Dave,
    My shower drain is backed up and the shower basin has overflowed flooding the tile floor
    and out into the hallway. A slight stream continues on without let up disallowing me to dry the floor.

    There is no tap turned on and I don't know how to stop the water flow.
    I have covered the floor with towels to sop up the water til a plumber arrives but no luck.
    They get saturated and I need to throw more towels on and on and on.

    I'm worried night time will present big problems for morning surprise. Can you tell me what I should do about stopping the water flow?

    Can I turn off the water supply some where til help comes? Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Joyce, It sounds like a stoppage and turning off the water is the best course of action till a professional arrives. If your not in any of the storm areas it could be a clogged line and toilet running which would continue to overflow if anything is running?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  256. DC Chumley on

    Question my house was built in 95, it has a gas water heater that was replaced sometime around 2005, is an exspansion tank required and a gas drip leg required to be on the water heater?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      DC, The requirement in Charlotte requires an expansion tank or expansion valve, and sediment trap on the gas line at the water heater. It would only be if you changing you heater that it would need to be brought to today's standards.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  257. Mary Fowler on

    There is a small plastic pipe that sticks out from my second level it is near my laundry room I just noticed at times I see water drip from it is that normal?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Mary, It sounds like a secondary or primary line from a condensate drain. I'm not sure but if its tied into the washer box and goes down that drain its normal. If its dripping anywhere besides into a drain its probably the secondary drain and you need to see if you have water in the pan of the HVAC unit in the attic which may need to be cleared?

      Reply
  258. Joe Castle on

    Hi Dave,

    I am having an issue with sediment in the guest bathroom tub. It is the farthest from the water filter. The sink and toilet appear fine, but there is always a red sediment in the water when I turn on the tub water. We are on a well system here running a .01 micro flyer. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Joe, I would see if it's on the cold or hot only? To actually have sediment in the line remember the tub faucet draws more flow than other fixtures which could be why you only notice that fixture? I would also wonder how old the expansion tank is because it could be full of sediment? The filter is after the expansion tank reservoir so it collects sediment and sits in the tank. If you just have a basic whole house sediment and rust filter you could get one that regenerates and cleans itself and can handle more sediment. I'm not sure how dirty the filter is when you swap it out but if your seeing the same red particles it's between the expansion tank and filter you currently have.

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Denise, It seems to be a cartridge issue? I would need more info because when you say it comes out of other faucets that's odd if the handle is not on? I would have a professional look at this

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      If you have hot water, you should have cold water - cold feeds the hot. Some sort of debris has gotten into the cartridges or valves that is blocking the cold water lines to those specific fixtures or appliances. You need a professional plumber to check this out.

      Reply
  259. shane smyth on

    hi dave
    we have a problem with our upstairs cold taps and toilet cistern. about 2 weeks ago the mains water supply had a major burst and there was no water supply for a day to alot of houses in the town. once fixed though all of our down stairs taps hot and cold were working but only our hot taps upstairs work both cold taps and cistern in the bthroom upstairs there is no water coming out could you offer some advice please and thanks

    Reply
  260. Janet on

    We are in need of a new repeller on our well pump, the place we formerly went to for plumbing needs has closed, we were wondering if you knew of someone to repair the impeller or that we could get a new one that is not plastic.... Thanks in advance...

    Reply
  261. Shelli on

    Hi Dave
    My question is after replacing a single handle shower valve more than once Moen 1200 and Moen 1222 I have a the same problem.hot great but he cold water begins cold turns to luke if I take a different plastic piece that sits flat and tighten it up I can have cold good water coming in I have been told many things paid many to only have the same outcome plz any ideas

    S colorado

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Shelli, I'm not sure if this will help and more videos are available on You Tube for the limit stop adjustment. You have to make sure it's installed properly and that nothing is crossed in the house. If you turn the water heater off at the valve you should have no water coming out of any hot sided valve except for residual water in the system. The cold water will stall work but the hot should stop unless you have a crossed line.

      https://youtu.be/rjufnr061t0
      https://youtu.be/3EYCDcCNK3w
      https://youtu.be/0i96DV_8d1c

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  262. kristy on

    My toilet flushes and fills right up but does not drain its a brand new townhouse it does this in my upstairs and downstairs toilet. Please needing urgent help to fix as i can't use the toilet

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kristy, If your located in Charlotte we can help you just give the office a call and they will dispatch someone for you. The office number is attached and sounds like a venting or stoppage issue?

      Thanks,
      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  263. sarah nunnally on

    I have hot and cold water everywhere in the house expect the kitchen sink and there I just have hot what could be causing this

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sarah, The first thing to do is disconnect the cold water supply line that feeds the faucet and see if water is coming out of the valve under the sink. If you have water coming out of the cold water angle stop the problem is in the cartridge and may need to be cleaned or replaced. I would shut the water off before unscrewing the supply tube from the faucet and than point it in a bucket and turn the water on to see what kind of pressure you have.

      Reply
  264. Kim on

    Hi Dave, as in the past, when our kitchen sink started to run slow, we installed a new faucet and hoses. Have been here 25 yrs and this is the third one we have replaced. 2 handles with sprayer. Our cold water comes out forcefully again, but now the hot water is running slower than ever!. Never have has this problem before. What could the problem be? Thanks in advance.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kim, It sounds like the angle stop could be bad underneath sometimes the washers deteriorate and clog the line? It may also be you have galvanized water lines or sediment in the line. I would hire a professional on this one to check the water pressure from the hose itself before it ever reaches the faucet with a bucket. If you turn the water off and take the supply tube off from the faucet on the hot side and hold it in a bucket and turn the stop back on see what the flow is like it will help identify if the issue is the faucets or before it ever reaches the faucet.

      Reply
  265. Lex Jones on

    I live at The Ratcliffe condo in Charlotte; our community manager, Stacy, includes your business on a list of companies with a positive reputation in our community.

    Our water heater is original equipment (think 2002-3). Presently, it shows no signs of problems, but I know that the likelihood of issues is growing over time.

    What would be the installed cost of a good quality hot water heater--about 50-gallon capacity--must fit under HVAC unit in mechanical closet?

    A part of me would like to consider a tankless approach, but there seem to be more cons than pros to that option. Thoughts?

    Thank you.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Lex, I would not even consider the Electric Tankless you just wouldn't be happy with it. We would need to have the height and width of your current area and a picture as well to quote. I would say your looking around $1,650 sight unseen and if the new heater will fit the space.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  266. Chris on

    Hi. I haven't run the shower in our downstairs bathroom in 15 years. What should I do before running it again (i.e. replace any seals)? Thanks!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Chris, Wow! That's a long time you most defiantly will want to replace the seals and cartridge. I would also thing the shower drain needs to be tested with water. Any drain when not used for a while will eliminate sewer gases if the trap is not maintained as water evaporates.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  267. Sherry on

    I replaced my hot water tank today. All lines work except I'm not getting any hot water at all in the shower. When i turn hot water on nothing comes out. Cold works fine. All other faucets work too.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sherry, I'm sorry for the delay just got back fro vacation which was out of the country. I'm hoping you got things working if you had hot water in all the other fixtures the problem would just be isolated to the shower fixture and probably the cartridge?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sherry, I'm sorry for the delay as my family was on vacation and out of the country. I would say if you have hot water at all the other faucets the issue would be isolated and probably cartridge related. I do hope you got it taken care of.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  268. Sharon on

    Hi Dave
    Can a malfunctioning pressure reducing valve cause your water tank to break? my Gas hot water tank broke and I was told the pressure reducing valve caused it.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sharon, A faulty pressure regulator and extreme pressures can increase chances of water heaters bursting especially if an expansion tank is not installed. I never say it is the underlying reason because other things come into play like draining the heater once a year. A water heater has to work harder through the sediment if not maintained causing the heater to lose thermal efficiency, super heat, and fail. We do recommend pressure be set below 80psi and is a local code requirement.

      Reply
  269. Mary Sweet on

    We are trying to replace a kitchen faucet. The hot and cold water has been turned off. When the hoses are disconnected warm water comes out of the hot hose. Not a drip but a small steady stream. We even tried turning off the water from the main shut off. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Mary! The angle stops don't sound like they are working so you shut the house water off and water still kept coming. The house valve if round is a gate valve and may not be holding either so shut it off at the water meter. It sounds like you may want to address the valves soon but the meter should solve the water running issue. I would also note if you have a recirculation system make sure you unplug it.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  270. Tim on

    My wife and I just purchased are first house last year and the other day are water company contacted us saying we have a slow leak somewhere so I started to look for a shutoff valve to the house but can't find one going in to the house only one in the meter box so i started to dig up the line to trace it down. it goes from one side of the yard under my driveway and also under my front porch slab then i lost it was it required when my house was built in 1985

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Tim, It was a requirement for sure! I would check under cabinets and in pantry and coat closets. We could send an electrician fish tape up the line and trace where it goes if you have it dug up and local to our area? The first thing to do is test from meter to that valve hopefully somewhere in the house. The other thing to do is make sure no toilets are running by turning the valves off at the toilets and looking at the meter. The water heater should have a valve as well so shut it off and see if it stops spinning? If it does when you shut that valve off it means it's on the hot side under the slab.

      Reply
  271. Missy on

    Hi Dave - my parents' home has a lower level shower/bath that hasn't been used in about a decade. Are there some precautions they should take before running water through there again? They live in Minnesota...so not sure if freezing temps could make a difference as well. Thanks for your help!

    Reply
  272. Natascha on

    Hi Dave. We recently bought a new home 4 months ago and have struggled with hot water issues in the kitchen. We have had 2 plumbers come out- the first said there was no issue that we need a recirculator because the hot water heater is upstairs...the second said we needed a new faucet and checked the lines under the sink...I now have a hole in the drywall under the sink...well we replaced the faucet...didn't fix the issue...water would get lukewarm after running it for about 10 minutes, which was exactly what it did prior to replacing. Today we installed a recirculator- the kind with a unit on the water heater and then a pump under the sink. Now we just get lukewarm water faster. Every other faucet in the house gets super hot...but not in the kitchen. I'm about to call the warranty people again...any ideas? Two plumbers can't figure it out and I'm getting really frustrated!

    Reply
  273. Brian Bloxsom on

    Hi Dave,
    My wife and I bought an off frame modular house 9 months ago. The house sat empty for approx 2 years and is 10 years old. We have a gray/black sediment in the the toilet tanks and it keeps coming back after being cleaned out. I do not have galvanized piping in the house. I have a hardware store inline filter where well line comes in. I have a 5 micron filter in it and it stays clean. The sediment is gritty but disappears when I rub it between my fingers. It had accumulated in the tankless hot water heater also and was slowing our flow to the house. Any ideas what we are dealing with? Thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Brian! Sounds like you have well water. The sediment filter is something you may want to increase in size and check more frequently. The sediment has to come from the source for sure. The flow will increase by keeping clean and cleaning aireators and water savers in shower heads.

      Reply
  274. Shirley Vesser on

    Hi Dave-

    First winter in our new manufactured home in Priest Lake Idaho. It is a secondary residence. This has been an exceptionally cold winter. When we came up today we noticed in both bathrooms the shower/tub shower had initial hot water pressure and then nothing. The sinks in both bathrooms as well as the kitchen work fine on the hot setting. Not sure what would cause this.

    Thank you!

    Reply
  275. Honey Jackson on

    Every time we turn on the hot water in one of our bathrooms, the shower in that bathroom begins dribbling. It never happens with the cold water. Then we noticed it really dribbling a lot when the washing machine was filling on the warm cycle. Also, a few weeks ago, we noticed the hot water pressure in the entire house was reduced. Then we started running out of hot water during a shower in that particular shower. My husband turned up the temp on the water heater, which fixed only the shower temp problem, but we still have the dribbling and lack of hot water pressure. What do you think we should do?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Honey, It sounds like the cartridge in the shower needs to be replaced. I don't know the brand but that would be the starting point! I would be cautious with turning a heater up if you have kids that only makes things hotter. The heater may need to be looked at if your loosing hot water after a while but if another bathroom is present in the house see how that works first under the same conditions.

      Reply
  276. Crisi Eddins on

    Hi Dave! We had a 50 gal.rural gas water heater that we replaced yesterday with a new 40 gal. natural gas water heater. Now we have no hot water pressure....the cold has great pressure. I tried turning all of the hot water taps at once & letting the run for 5 minutes....no change in the water pressure from the hot water taps.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Crisi, The valve on the cold side of the water heater is your starting point. The valve is either old and the gate is broke or not open all the way? I would be first making sure it is turned on all the way. I would say if that doesnt work shut the water main shut off to the house down and replace the valve serving the heater. I can't imagine it being anything else from what you are saying.

      Reply
  277. Wendy on

    Hello I live in a duplex home. I noticed that our pipes would be hot when no one was using the water. So I turned off the valve (connected to the cold water coming into the heater). This made the sinks, and shower hot water supply from coming out.

    Later that day. I noticed my neighbor taking a shower and my heater got hot. Also you can feel the water coming out of my heater. ( at this point the valve is still shut off)

    How is this possible. They have there own heater?

    We're only suppose to share the cold water supply.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Wendy, If you have the hot water valve off at the heater you should have no water coming out of any hot water faucet. If you do something is crossed but that's the first thing to do. The home should have its own hot water heater and not connect to any neighbors. I would try the test mentioned above first before going any further.

      Dave

      Reply
  278. Greg Bean on

    Dave, great service you have here! I have 3 bathrooms, gas hot water heater, and a recirculating pump with dedicated return line. In one bathroom only, both the shower and lavatory faucet turn cold after several minutes. It is the bath located furthest away from water heater and pump. I simultaneously ran the faucets in the others and they were hot. Potentially related, I replaced the cartridges in all the Delta shower faucets. Very strange and cannot find any reference to this on troubleshooting sites. Thanks!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Greg, I would like to know if you have a storage tank or Tankless heater? We need to make sure nothing is mixing so turn the valve off at the water heater and make sure no water flows from the hot side of any faucet. The check valves could be bad as well or may not be installed? You need to make sure you have one protecting the hot side and one protecting the cold from cross connection and mixing.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
      • Greg on

        Dave, thanks for the response. I have a tank hot water heater, 2 years old. I shut off the valve as suggested and water did not flow out of the hot water side of the faucet. With re to check valve, there is only one on the dedicated return line prior to where it joins the cold water line. There is not a check valve on the cold water line.

        Reply
      • Greg on

        Dave, as it turns out, the impeller in the recirculating pump was shredded and the plastic bits wrecked havoc with the check valve. We will be replacing the impeller with a brass one. Thanks for your advice and good luck in the future!

        Reply
  279. John on

    Dave,

    I just installed an upper insert for my tub and replaced the Moen fixtures as well.

    Prior to I shut off all the water to the house and closed all the valves to the water heater. When the work was done I turned on all the valves but when I turned on the cold water inlet the bathtub started to run. The bathtub also runs when I turn on the bathroom sink between hot/cold but not when only on cold or only on hot.

    Any thoughts?!

    Thank you!!

    Rookie Plumber

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      John, It sounds like the valve is in upside down or turned around somehow. I would make sure the direction of flow is proper to the hot/cold inlets, tub spout, and shower head because that can be the issue? The problem sounds strange for sure so start with verification of installation first.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  280. Kim Kinsey on

    Dave,

    I live in a very old building in an apartment that I own (co-op). It seems like at least twice a year they shut the water down on my plumbing line for repairs. In the evening and at night my bathroom pipes howl (all year long - not the heat pipes).

    Well, the most recent time they were planning on turning off my water, I took a nice shower the night before. After they turned the water back on, a lot of very dark debris (dark brown, the color of rich potting soil) and brown water came out of the taps for a long time. When I took a shower, I didn't have enough water pressure. Hardly any cold water comes out of the bathtub spout. And, in order to get the T-type diverter on the spout to work, I have to turn the handle on the mixer all the way over to the hottest setting.

    The maintenance men and superintendent at my co-op don't understand what has happened. The management company person seems to think that it's all in my head, or that I need a new tub cartridge and/or new spout/diverter. I have no leaking from anywhere in my bathtub, and the temperature does not fluctuate on me when I'm taking a shower. The only problem is a lack of water pressure from both the tub spout and the shower head.

    Please, tell me that you have some ideas, of what might have happened, or what the superintendent can try to do.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kim, It sounds like you may have galvanized water lines? If the color is brown and on hot and cold showing this discoloration. If the sink faucets have good pressure the shower should as well. I would remove the shower head and check for dibris. I would run it without the head on and see what volume is coming out. I would say if it's still slow remove the cartridge and check it out? The big thing here if type of pipe building has if galvanized the lines could even be clogged with buildup and need replacing?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
      • Kim Kinsey on

        Thank you so much for your quick response, Dave!!! 🙂

        They removed the bathtub pressure balance cartridge, and told me that I need a new one, because they say without it there is enough pressure coming out of the pipes. (Yes, there is enough pressure in the bathroom sink.)

        I asked a different workman on an earlier visit if all of the debris that I saw coming out of the spout the day of the water shut down (to work on the line), and stuck in the sink's aerator, could have gummed up the tub's cartridge and ruined it necessitating a replacement. He seemed to think so. (However, he also didn't seem to know anything about "washerless" (ceramic disk) faucet cartridges, or how to put the mixer handle back on my tub, with the set screw. My handle kept just falling off after he left!)

        Reply
  281. Marc L on

    Hi Dave
    We just installed a Recirculating Pump with a sensor under one of our dual sinks in the bath.
    After the installation, the faucet without sensor is flowing extremely slow. More of a trip. Do we need another sensor?
    Many thanks.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Marc, I answered this the other day but don't see it went through? I would need to know the brand you installed? We use the Grundfos Comfort system. It doesn't make since that the other faucet when no work was performed under it has little to no pressure? The spout may have fibrils in it it both hot and cold aren't producing much water?

      Reply
  282. Chad kihlstrom on

    Dave I have just replaced the thermal coupling on my water heater I can get it to lite but after heating the water tank once about a minute after the pilot light goes out again what is my next step to a hot shower

    Reply
  283. Valerie on

    Dave,
    My boyfriend replaced his shower head on Monday. The first attempt he left an extra washer in the pipe coming out of the wall so the water was backing up and banging in the pipes and no water was coming out of the head. We finally realized the mistake and took out the washer and the water seemed to be flowing fine (only cold water was tested at this point). The next morning, and ever since, we have not been getting hot water out of the shower faucet or shower head, it is lukewarm or cold. He has oil heat, which I am not familiar with, but we haven't had any problems with that recently and he hasn't seen any signs of a leak. Nothing but the shower head has changed. Any ideas why the sudden lack of hot water?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Valerie, If you have hot water in the bathroom sinks something is wrong with the shower cartridge? I would start with that. If you have water coming out of the hot side but it's cold water it will probably be the cartridge. The big thing is if the sinks have water so should the shower!

      Reply
  284. Peter on

    Dave,

    My master shower (on 2nd fl) would spurt water minutes to hours after turned off seemingly randomly. I noticed that it did it more frequently when my kids came back from college and it would happen soon after they took a shower in their bathroom (other side of house, 2nd fl). I replaced the master cartridge and it does it less frequently but still once a day, maybe less, since my kids went back to college. How can a shower that is turned off spurt water minutes to hours to even days later?

    Thanks,
    Peter

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Peter, I see you replaced the cartridge. I'm wondering if you have a hand held shower or an odd shower head or gooseneck that the head attaches to. I would take the head off and see how it performs? I have seen even teflon tape cause wicking as well. I know that's a lot but try removing the shower head and see? If it still runs the cartridge or actual diverter is bad..

      Dave

      Reply
  285. Monica Johnson on

    Hi Dave! We do not have water to our downstairs toilet or sink.....but we have it everywhere else in the house....including the shower in that same bathroom. What do you think could be causing this? Thank you!!!!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Monica, It sounds like something is frozen if your in a cold water climate? The fixtures for that bathroom may be on an exterior wall so open the cabinets and get some heat in that bathroom if that may be the case.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  286. Jocelyn on

    Hi Dave,
    I am having an issue with my downstairs shower. I am not receiving any water. I am receiving water everywhere else in the house (upstairs shower, all faucets, sink by washer/dryer). Not sure what needs to be replaced so that I can receive water. Thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Jocelyn, If you have water to the toilet and sink same bathroom the first thing we would do is check the showers head which may have dibris built up? If that is clean we would pull the shower cartridge and clean or replace if found to be issue.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  287. angi holmes on

    Hi Dave! We have a two story house sitting not lived in, water heater off, when run upstairs sink, the front load washing machine below has water in it which the bathroom sits right above. Also some of the bathrooms have no water pressure at all is this because the water heater is off and why the ones that do is stinky.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Angie, The smell would be sulfur and would come from the water heater and hot side. The bacteria causes that from infrequent use and can be solved by a treatment of clorhine or hydrogen peroxide. The low pressure could just be a faulty regulator valve or adjustment. The drain is a different issue and would have to be piped wrong or backing up! I would have to see this for sure if your saying the water is in the marching itself when a sink is ran? If you are local just give us a call and we will have a look at things..

      Dave
      704-846-5371

      Reply
  288. Mike on

    Dave,

    Had a gas water heater located on a brick pedestal in my garage beside the wall for the kitchen go about 8 years ago. When it broke, water came into the kitchen. I dried it all out and had a new water heater installed. It had a six year warranty. Now that it is 8 years old, I am worried about water coming into the kitchen again. Are there any signs to know when the best time is to replace it? Can a drain pan be put under a new water heater directing water into the garage rather than the kitchen?

    Thanks,

    Mike

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Hey Mike! I'm not sure if your on a slab or have a crawlspace? I would think if the heater is up against the garage wall a pan could be installed with a drain terminated in the garage which would be better than kitchen floor. If you have a crawlspace it's even better? The heaters usually last anywhere from 10-15 years on average depending on water quality and being serviced. The heater will not have any signs to the seeing eye they just fail..

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  289. Debbie on

    Dave,

    I wish you were in Fort Worth, Texas as I have a list I would love help tackling. Current issue is our kitchen faucet. The faucet is a Moen single handle and five minutes ago we replaced the cartridge as it was suggested by Moen since the water there is cold. We have an electric tankless water heater as that is the other question usually asked and all of the other sinks, showers, etc get hot water.
    After replacing the cartridge, we turned the water valves back on, then because of no hot water we turned the cold water valve off just to see if water from the hot side is running, which it is. Then we turned the hot water valve off and turned on cold to see if somehow the two were crossed but still only cold water comes from the faucet.

    Do you possibly have suggestions that we could try so our kitchen can have hot water returned?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Debbie,

      I would need to know if that sink ever got hot water? I would shut the electric Tankless valve off and make sure no water flows out of any faucets. If you still have water flowing from the hot side of fixtures something is crossed. I would expect when just the heater valve is shut off cold water would be all that is on to the fixtures and nothing flowing from hot side of faucets. I think this is the starting point..

      Reply
  290. Carol on

    Hi Dave, My water heater has been making popping noises and I'm wondering if it is safe or if I need to do something to it? It's a gas water heater about 11 years old. Thanks!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Carol, The popping noises are usually from sediment at the bottom of the heater built up over the years. I would say if you haven't been draining it yearly you may want to consider replacement. I would say it's to hard removing sediment now if not maintained over the years and would stir things up into the fixtures when re-filling..

      Reply
  291. Julie on

    I have a tankless water heater. The water pressure to our shower is low and sometimes the pipes ring while taking a shower. Our home is only 6 years old. What can be done?

    Reply
    • David on

      Julie, The pressure reducing valve may have an issue on the house? I would start at that point and also see if any other fixtures are low in pressure? If it's just one fixture having an issue you may need to have the shower cartridge looked at?

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
  292. Lisa on

    Hi! I live in AZ and have a 2 story house. It's 10 years old with three bathroom, 2 upstairs, 1 down. We've been here 7 years and about a year ago one sink in the master bath stared streaming water very slowly. I figured the screen may clogged or something and just didn't hound the hubs to fix it since there was another. Not long after the bathtub went to about half flow. It's still that way and the one sink wont flow at all now. Hubs randomly ran into a plumber who said "Oh, I bet your filters are clogged" We weren't aware there were filters in the bathrooms and can't see any anywhere. Of course the plumber wants to come over to do it but thought I'd check online first and found your very helpful site. Any ideas, suggestions greatly appreciated!

    Reply
    • David on

      Lisa, It sounds as if you have sediment in the water system are you on well water? If so a simple rust and sediment whole house filter will help. I would check the aireators first at the end of faucet spouts and unscrew them and see if indeed it's sediment?

      Reply
      • Lisa on

        Thanks for the reply but no, we have city water. I thought hubs checked those but I'll double check. Would that stop it totally? Like completely dry?

        Thanks again.

        Reply
        • David Parker on

          Lisa,

          If you have city water and multiple fixtures with low pressure and some that are fine we would concentrate on the fixtures having the issue. The tub may need a new cartridge? The sink will probably just need to be cleaned at the aerator, supply lines and possibly cartridge? The hubby may want professional not sure what's going on or why but sure this is driving you crazy..

          Reply
  293. Sabrina Willoughby on

    I had a plumber out two days ago an he snaked my toilet an the main sewer line or side. He wasn't able to find anything. Sewage is still backing up into my tub an I have no water in my toilet. We think the vent line on the roof is clogged. Will the plumbing company snake those?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Sabrina, The plumber should snake and possibly run a camera? We will go on the roof if it's a one story only really dependent on the pitch but in most occasions it can be figured out possibly through attic if pipe is accessible?

      Reply
  294. Thayne Brown on

    I have a stupid question, do you have to turn off the water to replace a tub/shower drain, overflow, and shower hardware. I know you do for the control handle?

    Reply
  295. Ewan on

    Thanks for this good Articles and also to tell you that's my
    first time posting here,but definitely i returning
    for more. great stuff

    Reply
  296. Erica on

    Hi dave,

    I recently bought a house and there was no water heater in the home. It takes a gas water tank. We put it in and now we don't get water in the kitchen or bathroom sicks but the shower works also i have noticed rust coming out when you turn on the hot water. No one lived in my home for a year before i bought it and we get water from a well. Can you help

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Erica, We would probably have to look at this? It could be just sediment clogging the aireators that's not uncommon with wells. The other thing would be age of pipe do you have galvanized piping it tends to get build up and eventually fail? If you changed the heater and have a rust color I would lean towards galveized piping. I do think you may need a professional hearing you? If you have water in some areas working fine but not in others you start breaking down the individual fixtures having the issue.

      Thanks

      Reply
  297. David on

    Jason,

    I would have a look at my water meter and make sure it's not spinning when things aren't in use. The moisture may just be from the cracks in the concrete. The stains if coming down a wall are hard to say? I would flush toilets and listen to see if the stack comes down that wall? It could have a screw in it and leak when things are ran upstairs?

    Reply
  298. Jason on

    We were in process of replacing our kitchen floor. When I removed the linoleum near the baseboard we had an odd looking patch of slab. The 7 inch area of slab was broken in pieces, but I found no moisture. I can tell there are blue and red water lines coming down the wall into the area that was broken. If it was a leak shouldn't I have seen moisture on the surface of the slab? the baseboard was not wet and I haven't seen any unusual spike in our water bill.

    Reply
    • David on

      Doug, It would really depend on where it was capped? If you capped the tub under the crawlspace and it ran up through a exterior wall it may have caught a hose connection outside? I would think it would only be the one closest to where it was capped.

      Dave

      Reply
  299. Susan Burton on

    We have a 13-year-old water heater that has never been drained or serviced (I know, I know). Today I started noticing yellow/brown water in one tub upstairs and in the toilet in another bathroom. Could it be related to the water heater? Or something else? The water heater is in the attic and I was up there today but didn't go near the water heater itself. Thanks in advance for your help!

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Susan, The brown or discolored water is concerning if it's in the cold water supply as well. The hot water can have this after sediment and sludge is built up in the heater but would only pertain to the hot side. If the house has some age on it you may have some galvanized lines or water service. The only other thing would be a water main break down the street but neighbors would be dealing with the same issues more than likely?

      Thanks

      Reply
      • Susan Burton on

        That was my concern, since I didn't think the toilet was connected to the water heater in any way. The home is 13-years-old - original water heater. We've lived here the entire time with no issues. Haven't seen any evidence of a water main break (and I walk the neighborhood almost every day), but I will check with the neighbors.

        Reply
  300. David Parker on

    Jim, No venting will be required just sounds like they are giving you a high pressure 2psi system. The regulators get insalled at each appliance and no venting will be required!!

    Thanks

    Reply
  301. andrea on

    hi I have water from the kitchen sink back up into the dishwasher then I cut the dishwasher on and then it back up back into the sinks, I have snake the drain and used two drain cleaner. The hose
    for the dishwasher is hanging up high, what else can I try. please help

    Reply
  302. Leigh on

    My toilet was leaking from tank, seem like from bolts, but only 10 minutes after toilet was flushed and only a couple of teaspoons. Had a plumber come out, he replaced everything in tank and piece between tank and toilet. Did not leak when he was here after several flushes but then 30 minutes later there was a teaspoon of water. Now is leaking from right side bolt. Lots of air bubbles around bolt head. Plumber says might by crack in tank. What do you think? Thank you so much for this service. Leigh

    Reply
    • David on

      Leigh,
      I guess if the plumber has changed all the gaskets and bolts it could be a hairline crack in the tank. I'm not sure what brand of toilet you have but some of the old American Standard toilets use specific bolts and washers.

      Thanks,

      Reply
  303. Ellie on

    Hi Dave,

    I've looked through some of the questions people have asked but none are what I need answered.

    I live in S. Fla in a second story condo for about 15 years now. I've never had plumbing or water & sewer issues but for the last couple of years I've noticed a foul odor under my kitchen sink. It used to be sporadic but it's all the time now and the smell is getting stronger but I don't have any problems with drainage, stoppages, moisture or leaks. In that sink, I have a garbage disposal and my dish washer drains into it. I hardly ever use my dish washer but in the last couple of weeks I've used it a lot and it doesn't seem to make it any better. Anyway, my concern has increased because one of my downstairs neighbors just had they main line snaked out. They had to use over 60 feet of snake to break through the stoppage(this is the 3rd time in less than 2 months). They are not directly below me but I guess I wonder if their issue could be somehow related to the odor I'm getting in my sink. The cleaning out of their line didn't help my odor issue at all.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Ellie,

      You may have a studer vent under the sink which is something commonly used instead of a vent through the roof? I would look underneath the sink and see if you see that type of application? If so change the vent it is a mechanical fitting and can fail. I would goggle it so you know what it looks like. I don't know how old your building is but if the waste arm is cast iron or galvenized it could rot from sugers and create a hole in the arm which will give off a smell as well and could leak? I would also say slow drains can create back pressure and contribute to smells but that would be from above the sink. The last thing is to make sure all the waste nuts to the p-traps are tight where it comes through the wall. Any friendly bacteria you apply down the drains will help with smells from inside the pipes and garbage disposal before it gets to the trap seal.

      Thanks,

      Reply
  304. Jim G on

    Decided to go ahead and replumb, turns out that the new escutcheon/handle kit had the wrong screw hole pattern anyway even though it was made by Moen and supposed to be a Moentrol replacement.

    Reply
  305. Jim G on

    Hi Dave - I have a moentrol mixer valve with a tub spout diverter - I'm converting to a shower-only system and need to get rid of the push button diverter stem. Can I just remove and plug, or...? I know I need to plug the tub outlet.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Jim, You could actually just cap off the tub spout. Are you working in the wall? If so the proper shower height is 4ft to the handle so the valve would need to be raised and If that's the case change the valve to todays standard which is an anti scald valve. That way when someone flushes the toilet you don't get burnt!

      Dave

      Reply
      • Jim G on

        Hi Dave - was hoping not to have to replumb, and guess I forgot to mention that the problem is that I can't fit a shower-only escutcheon plate with the diverter stem in the way. Was thinking that I could just cut off about 1 1/2 inches, don' think there are any water-pressure-exposed parts in the protruding stem.

        Reply
  306. Linda James on

    Hi Dave,
    Several months ago you gave info on how to keep the garbage
    disposal smelling clean and fresh. I remember the "rock salt", but what was the other ingredient? Thanks.
    P. S. Your company is the BEST!!

    Reply
    • ER Plumbing on

      Rock salt and ice - run cold water as you grind it all up! Try five cups of ice with 1 cup of rock salt.

      You can also try baking soda and ice or white vinegar and ice - all work great!

      Thank you!

      Reply
  307. art person on

    I am planning to buy an 1100 square ft two-level condo--I have learned that one other unit (out of 15 in this 1989 vintage building) had an issue where copper plated steel straps reacted with the copper piping and caused serious leaks and extensive water damage. The piping is in the floor on each of the two levels. What would be the best way to handle this if I end up closing on the unit? I assume replacement of the pipes? What would be the best and least expensive way and very roughly what price range would I be looking at? Thanks Dave!
    Art

    Reply
    • David on

      Art,
      We would have to look at something like this! A re-pipe can be tough depending on the layout? We cannot provide a quote without knowing what were up against otherwise were shooting from the hip and may be way off. I would have someone look at this before purchase if you have a concern. We can provide a free quote but need a site visit.

      Thanks,

      Reply
      • art person on

        Thanks Dave. A follow up question: have you run into this problem involving this kind of strapping reacting with copper piping and eventually causing leaks? Is it (was it)common? Because I was wondering why that kind of strapping would ever be placed with copper piping.
        I appreciate anything you can tell me.

        Reply
  308. Susan on

    We have well water. Sometimes the water is off when I get home from work, the store, just being gone a couple hours. It will also shut off while we are using it. If we go downstairs and flip the switch back on [sometimes this takes several tries] the water will start back up and work fine, until the next time it shuts off again. Do I need a new switch, tank, pump? Please help, I'm getting tired of jumping out of the shower to turn the water back on. Thanks for any help you can offer.

    Reply
    • David on

      Susan,
      It sounds like a pressure switch issue? It could also be a at the pump in the well casing underground which may be overheating for some underlying issue? I don't know if you live in Charlotte but McCall Brothers is who we use when a pump has to be pulled. We can deal with things above ground but leave the pumps to the well guys.

      Thanks,

      Reply
  309. Nirman Mulalic on

    Dear Sir,

    I'm not sure if this is something you can give an answer to, but I don't know in which category this belongs.

    What is the difference between parallel piping supply and series piping supply. I cannot paste a drawing of the piping that I did, but I will try to explain it. However, I split 1"pipe in 3/4'' and 1'' pipe. Length is about 50 meters. I connected the pipes in a manifold which supply building 3/4'' pipe, and the pool 1-1/4''. I had water in the building, but almost no water in the pool. When I blocked 3/4'' supply pipe to manifold and left only 1'' pipe, a got water both in the building and the pool. I don't understand what happened. Was it due to parallel piping or something else.
    Thank you.

    Reply
  310. joann on

    when the toilets are flushed , its backing up into the tub and shower, when the water is running in the sink ,if flows into the tub I know I have a blockage ,but where

    Reply
  311. Carrie on

    How can I tell if my hot water heater is not working so well any more? I think my hot water heater is getting old but I can't tell if needs replaced or if I'm just impatient with how much hot water we get. Sometimes we run out if two of us take showers at the same time. Do tankless water heaters take care of that problem or is a regular hot water heater okay?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Carrie,
      I'm not sure if your heater is gas or electric? I would say if it's electric an element may be burned out? The electric or gas heaters will build up sediment after time and you have thermal loss. The Tankless units will give hot water and keep on giving. I have one and love it!!

      Reply
      • Carrie on

        Thanks, Dave. I may be calling you soon. My heater is gas so I think it must be sediment build up. It may be time to bite the bullet!

        Reply
  312. David parker on

    Richard,

    It sounds like a small storage tank with a Grundfos Comfort System would be better suited for you? The pump has a timer and returns from the cold water side at the furthest point of the house. The tank will help with the cold water sandwich your experiencing. The pricing would depend on the layout of the current system and how many bypasses we need under the sinks.

    Thanks,

    http://us.grundfos.com/products/find-product/comfort-pumps-up-10.html

    Reply
  313. Richard Blair on

    Hi Dave: I have a natural gas tankless water heater, (it is functioning as it should ), I have at least a 45 second waste time waiting for hot water, also shut off the hot and turn it on again and get the cold water surprise. Have talked about recirculating pumps, passive loops and a point of use water heater (small size) connected to the cold water line before entering the Rannia. What would be the most efficient way to go, so as not to waste water or electricity or natural gas. And what would such a system cost, +/- ? Thanks Rich

    Reply
  314. Jackie Duick on

    There is a plumber name Dave,
    who may cost a lot but in the long run you save;
    His workers are diligent and nifty,
    and can fix your problem in a jiffy;
    So call on Dave the "plumber man",
    if they can`t fix it no one can.

    P.S. Dave
    I hope you and your family are doing well.

    Reply
  315. Loyce Dettman on

    Tankless gas water heaters - I've heard they do not handle calcium buildups very well and need to be flushed out every 6 months. Is that true or is there a brand that handles that issue?

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Loyce,

      All Tankless units need to be flushed once or twice a year depending on water quality? A storage type heater recommends the same thing. A water softener will help with buildup as well. The process is very simple and takes roughly 30 minutes.

      Reply
  316. Robin on

    Dear Dave,

    I live in a Charlotte condo and just had a new electric hot water heater installed last month by my friend who is an electrician. I was thinking everything was ok, but now I find that my washing machine which is less than 6 months old is running cold water when the warm water selector has been selected.The water in the shower and kitchen sink gets hot water, so I am not sure what the problem could be. The water in the bathroom sinks does take a little longer to heat also. I will appreciated your knowledge and help. Thank you, Robin

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Robin, I guess my first question would be does it ever get hot to the washer? And have you checked if the cold setting is actually the hot? We have some clients cross the hoses in the back of the washer. If you have hot water everywhere else something is happening at the fixture. I would say if it just takes time to get to the washer run a fixture close by before starting the hot cycle. I would also recommend a return pump if it's just a matter of travel time?

      Thanks,

      Reply
  317. David Parker on

    Ann, I need to know what kind of drain your referring to? A bathroom sink drain need the stopper removed from underneath the sink. I am guessing hair may be the issue if it's a tub or sink? We carry something strong that can burn through the hair but would never recommend a homeowner application that would need to be a professions for safety reasons.
    A coat hanger works best if trying to hook and retrieve hair.

    Thanks,

    Reply
  318. Ann on

    How do I clean a drain if I can't get the plug to come out of the drain? Is there some trick to getting the plug out of the drain? Any sort of drain cleaner I can pour down there to obliterate the crap that's plugging up my drain down in the pipes? Thanksin advance for any and all advice.

    Reply
  319. Russ Bullock on

    Merry Xmas to you and your's Dave,

    We have moved from 609 White Oaks Circle, Monroe,NC to 6922 Cinnamon Circle, Mint Hill, NC. You did a great job on replumbing my old home. What is the charge for installation for a new natural gas vent free fireplace. I have natural gas water heater(located right behind the wall where the fireplace is located to tap into.)
    Thanks for your expertise again,

    Russ Bullock

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Hey Russ,

      I can have a tech come look for free it really depends on the type of fireplace you have? The inserts are harder to pipe than a brick fireplace. I would just give us a call and have us stop over for a free assessment...

      Merry Christmas

      Reply
    • David parker on

      Tim,
      That depends on the layout of the house and would be something we need to look at? We sometimes just build a wall and install the unit in the attic if the gas is sufficient. We also like to install them anywhere outside if you have a crawlspace or even under the crawlspace if you have at
      least 4ft of height? We also can put them in garages or storage closets? We just need to get some eyes on it and walk you through the process of what works for us and you!!

      Thanks,

      Reply
  320. peter on

    One of my two gas water heaters (Rheems model 41V40s-40. The upstream heater is not even on. The downstream heater is leaking at the rate of a drop every ten seconds. Will flushing it, (I flushed out about a gallon or so but it still leaks)alleviate the problem .
    Thanks

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Peter, The water heaters are tied in series and the first heater is the most common one to fail as it works the hardest. The draining if the heater won't help anything at this point it sounds like it has a crack of some sort? The second heater may just need the pilot lit but is probably the same age as the other heater? I would turn off the leaking heater and drain it if it's in a location that can cause damage. The heater that is not lit right now would have to be piped in by itself if you try and use it alone and if it's repairable?

      Hope this helps?

      Reply
  321. Bonnie Jones on

    Another Bonnie posting here...
    Your plumber noticed that the pressure from Charlotte's water system is extremely high in our neighborhood. Couple this with the fact that our house was built in 1985 with plastic piping and we know that's a disaster (although I'd like to understand the problems with this litigated system that's installed). Anyway, our neighbors had an upstairs pipe burst while on vacation. Made me think I should look into it further. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Bonnie, It sounds like your referring to poly pipe which does have issue. I find more issues with the fittings that were used if they are plastic? I would just have my system looked at if you have known issues in the area? I don't think the law suits are ongoing anymore and have been closed out? I know if you have that piping I would make sure my pressure is regulated to below 80psi but that doesn't mean you cant still have a problem?

      Thanks,

      Reply
  322. I Rice on

    Our house has a Rinnai tankless hot water heater with a propane fuel source. We are converting to natural gas and wonder whether our propane model can be converted or whether we have to buy a new water heater. The model number is R85i, REU2532FFU-US and was manufactured in 2005.

    Reply
  323. Mark on

    When I shut off the cold water intake for my hot water tank, cold water started flowing from my bathroom tub faucet. How/or why?? Really puzzling. Thank you, Mark

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Mark, I'm not sure besides maybe you have a pressure balancing valve which needs equal pressure on both sides to work properly? I would have my cartridge replaced because we change heaters all the time turning the shut off at the heater and don't have water running out a valve on it's own. I know you should still have cold water but no hot to the shower valve once it's shut off at the heater unless something is crossed. I would test it again and see what happens but it seems cartridge related?

      Reply
  324. David Parker on

    Justine,

    I don't think you would have a problem boxing them in? The access needed would be for the water main shut off or a pressure reducing valve if it's in that area? You can always install an access panel if you ever need to reach those items?

    Thanks,

    Reply
  325. Justine on

    Hi Dave,

    I've got my sanitary/storm/water line coming into the house at the front fondation wall. I need to know how I can go about covering these up so that I can finish my basement with a new renovation. Can I build out a 'closet' around them or do they have to be totally accessible?

    Thanks

    Reply
  326. Katie Bauer on

    I am replacing my shower fixtures from Moen Monticello to Moen Kingsley Moentrol (R). Do I need to replace the shower valve, or can I use the existing one?

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Katie,
      I'm not sure which Monticello you currently have the posi temp or the Moentrol? How do you turn your handle when you asking for water? Do you pull it out and turn it left to right or in a counter clockwise motion?

      Reply
  327. Ron on

    I have a complex issue. We live in an upstairs apartment, and have had the same problems for almost 2 years. Periodically, but often our kitchen sink will back up into our bathtub. We have snaked it, used expensive drain cleaners, dawn dishsoap (that my landlord swore would work), but still this is a problem. It seems like the kitchen sink, bathtub and bathroom sink are all connected. Our landlord hasn't done anything to fix the issue and we're getting really irritated. If we run water in the kitchen sink it will slowly fill up. As it fills in the sink the water starts to come out of the bathtub drain and fill up the bathtub also.

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Ron, I'm sorry to here the owner is not taken care of the issue properly. The kitchen line is probably full of grease and needs a proper cleaning. The system is attached in some way on the same branch to be coming up in several areas. The only way to address this issue is with a proper snake and a freindly bacteria product that eat's waste and helps clean the lines.

      Reply
  328. David parker on

    Jocelyn,
    I would get a small Closet Augger Snake for the house from Lowes or Home Depot if your handy? The cardboard is probably lodged in the trap or throat of the toilet and a plunger can't retreive the item.

    Thanks,

    Reply
  329. Jocelyn on

    Hey Dave. I'm having a bit of toilet trouble. I believe that a piece of cardboard got flushed down the toilet and now it is clogged. I tried a plunger but it didn't seem to help and I tried feeling for it but nothing. What should I do?

    Reply
  330. Charlotte on

    I put on a hand held shower and now when I use it cold water continues to run from the tub spout. Is it the shower head or is it the spout or is it the taps that are the problem? Had new washers put on the taps and a new spout recently, before the shower head was installed.

    Reply
  331. David parker on

    Wayne,
    The basket comes with a black rubber gasket that seals underneath the basin, a thick paper washer, and a die-cast metal lock nut to clamp the basket onto the basin. There is also a smaller lock nut that connects the sink tail-piece (the first part of the drain system) to the basket. The cardboard washer would be for friction. The putty on the top is the main sealant for sure and the rubber would be a backup and vibration barrier when the garbage disposal is used.

    Thanks,

    Reply
  332. Wayne Crocker on

    Dave,
    I think my first post timed out and disconnected. If this question is a repeat, just ignore it. My question is about kitchen sink strainer installations. The rubber washer that is used on the underside of the sink when installing a strainer, is it really necessary and what is its purpose. Does not the plumbers putty used on the topside provide all the leak prevention? Thanks.

    Reply
  333. David parker on

    Mardy,
    If the diverter pull out is on the tub spout change the spout. I would say if you have good pressure the diverter should transfer. We do need some decent water pressure so hopefully the system is not galvenized? The faucet will sometimes have diverters in the wall and if that's the case you would have three stems? I would change out the diverter stem if you have that type of application?

    Reply
  334. Mardy on

    Hello Dave i just replaced the valve stems in my bathroom but know the shower diverter is not working when i turn it water still comes out of the faucet and very little from the shower head what can i do......

    Reply
  335. David parker on

    Jamey, I would have you test the pressure at the hose connection at the back or side yard. The pressure would be different at the two fixtures because of water saving devices installed in the faucets. I would also make sure the expansion tank is set to the right pressure and is not water logged. You can check the pressure tank by pressing the valve at the top where you would fill air. We should have no water coming out of that area when being pressed. The only other we would check for is weather the water heater is getting very hot or set to a high temp? The control valve could be out of calibration and causing it to over heat and run the relief??

    Thanks,

    Reply
  336. jamey on

    pressure release valve has been leaking. Changed the release valve twice and got a expansion tank but it is still leaking. We checked the psi and in the kitchen it is at 60 but at the washer and dryer it is 120. What could be the problem and why are they so different and what should I do?

    Reply
  337. Helen on

    Last time we had plumbing work done, the tech said our water pressure was too high, so he adjusted it. Now all three toilets don't do a good job of flushing sometimes, if you get my meaning. We have to carry a bucket of water to add to the flush. Embarrassing! What can be done to correct this?

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Helen, The water pressure should not be higher than 80psi in the house. The toilets should still perform if they are decent quality? We can turn the pressure back up as long as we don't exceed the 80psi. I have the Toto toilets at my house and have low pressure because were on well water. We have no issues and the pressure is 65psi. I think you may want to consider changing the toilets if they are not performing under a safe pressure level and all three are performing the same?

      Reply
  338. David parker on

    Pat, I think the diverter in the faucet is the issue causing the hammer noise. I would find out what brand of faucet it is and have a diverter shipped to you. We can help with the install or order if we know the make and modelof the faucet. The grey water system is a complicated issue depending on the layout of the house? A two story for example is much harder to achive the goal. A one story house with a crawlspace is best case senario. The systems very and we see some installs that reclaim the water and fill the toilet tanks back up for a new flush. We would have to look at the job and see what your looking to do for sure.

    Thanks,

    Reply
  339. Pat McConaha on

    Nice site! I may need your help as we remodel this old ranch house of ours!

    My first question has to do with a hammering that we get at our kitchen sink. We get the hammering when hot or cold is used. The hammering stops as soon as we use the sink sprayer. Any thoughts?

    We are also looking at redirecting our grey water and having the toilet be the only thing that drains to the septic. Are we asking for trouble with that?

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice you may have!

    Pat

    Reply
  340. JR on

    Dave,

    I'm thinking about a whole-house water filtration system. However, the main water supply comes to a cut-off valve located in a closet in the interior of my house. My assumption is that any sort of whole-house filter will need to be inserted at this main supply line. Because I want the filter to actually be located in my garage, does that mean that the main water supply needs to be re-directed to the garage and what all is involved with that?

    Reply
    • David parker on

      JR,
      We see this a lot where the water main is in a closet inside the house. I would say if you have a crawlspace we can move it with no problems. We just extend the piping to the garage, pipe it through the filters, and return the line back into the main distrabution system. I know you will need to change the pre-filter at some point? The garage makes since and gives you ease of access for any filter replacements needed.

      Reply
  341. David parker on

    Tom,

    I would say doing the demo should save you some money but be careful, and where your safety equipment! Having the right tools will make a differance as well. I would say when it comes to shower bases leave it to a professional the potential damage is not worth the headache if improperly installed. The water damage would be easy to spot after pulling up the tile and old pan material. The flooring may need new wood if it's leaked for a while? and keep an eye out for any discoloration a professional may have to deal with.

    Thanks,

    Reply
  342. Tom on

    Hey Dave,

    I appreciate you giving our free plumbing advice here on your site - it's very helpful. I have a question for you. I'm thinking about renovating my master bathroom (in fact, I think my shower has been leaking for a while - the caulking is pretty bad)and I'm wondering: Is this a job I can tackle myself? How will I know if there is water damage or not? How tough is it to replace a shower by myself? I'm pretty handy, but I've never tackled anything like this before. Thanks for the advice.

    Reply
  343. Roberta on

    Dear Dave,

    My family has been considering a water filtration system for a while because our tap water doesn't really taste that great. What kind of water filtration systems are the best? Is there much latitude in what kind of water filtration system are available? What factors should I consider when choosing a water filtration system?

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Roberta,
      I would first have to ask you if your on city or well water? The treatment really depends on what your water quality test comes back like. I would say a good pre-filter and carbon system will handle most city water systems. The pre-filter will handle things like sediment and rust. The pre-filter also can be managed by the consumer every three to six months with ease. A carbon system can give the house great quality water for several years without any maintanance and removes items like chorline. We like to purchase water filtration systems that taste great, keep us healthy, and little maintenance is required. I also know it's a great investment knowing what your family is consuming and bathing in.

      Reply
    • Gerald Pino on

      i am getting surface water just below my 6in. well caseing the advise i am getting is to put a 4in pvc pipe and pack with spmekind of a product that for this type of job my question does it work .

      Reply
  344. David parker on

    Kelly,

    The term on demand is getting hot water when your asking for it! The tankless heaters do this,an example would be when you turn the hot side of the faucet on for any hot fixture it senses flow,ignites,and starts heading towards you. The great thing with tankless is multiple fixtures can be ran at the same time and everyone has all they need,as long as they need it! We like Rinnai and Noritz units and I actually have one at the house. We can give a free estimate if you ever need one? We need to have a look at the current installation and layout of the house to determine the best fit.

    Thanks,

    Reply
  345. Kelly on

    Hi Dave,

    What is an on demand water heater? Are they any good? If we need a new water heater, what kind do you recommend?

    Thanks for the advice,

    Kelly in Matthews

    Reply
  346. Catie on

    Hi,

    Thank you for taking the time to look at my post. I'm desperate for an answer to my shower issue. I recently bought a house that was in the middle of renovations. The old owner had moved the electric hot water tank out in the garage for more space in the house. Since the garage isn't attached we decided to have the plumber install a recirculating pump so that the 50 gallon electric hot water heater didn't have a problem getting water to the house quickly. I finally moved in and realized that I have hot water in both of my sinks, but only about 30 seconds of hot water in the shower. Originally we thought maybe the cartridge was bad in the single handle shower control so we replaced that as well as took it apart to make sure the red scalding thing wasn't set too low. When that didn't solve the problem we decided to look at the dip tube in the hot water tank thinking it needed to be replaced or that a heating element wasn't working right on the tank so we weren't getting all 50 gallons. Well, our contractor ended up messing up the dip tube so we bought a brand new Whirlpool 50 gallon hot water tank. Still no hot water....I've been taking cold showers for a month now and I don't know what else to do. As soon as I get out of the shower I can turn on the sink and have hot water there so it's really mind boggling. The plumber who did the work isn't returning phones call to come back out, so I'm resorting to the internet to see if someone can help...I'm hoping someone can help me so I don't have to keep boiling water for my son's bath!!!!

    Thank you for your time!

    Reply
    • David parker on

      Catie, The shower should be connected to the same water heater. I would say if you have hot water in the sinks you should have hot water at the shower. I'm concerned the plumber crossed the lines in the shower or has the valve upside down in the wall? I am also concerned that the plumber never tied the hot into the valve if it's new? The thirty seconds of hot may just be from the water circulating system? The problem is either within the valve installation or the way the plumber piped the lines. I would say if the house is on a crawlspace you can trace the lines to make sure there tied in correctly underneith. I would also say if the bathroom is upstairs it's going to require some drywall removal to verify what was done. The bottom line is if you have hot water everywhere else it's not the heater. The water heater will give you 75% usage before it tempers down at 120 degrees if that's what the heater is set at? The amount you should be getting from a 50-gallon heater with just turning the hot side on is about seven 5 gallon buckets full before it starts loosing temp. Hope This Helps!

      Dave

      Reply
  347. Kim B in Huntersville on

    The sink in my master bathroom is draining slowly. We haven't had problems with any other sinks in the house, just this one. Any advice? Any drain cleaners I should use?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kim,

      Sinks are a pretty common stoppage and the first thing we check is for hair and soap buildup in the pop up drain. The way to disconnect this is from underneith the cabinet. The way to free the pop up is by lifting it out and this can be done from the middle of the drain assembly where it attaches to the rod coming down from above in the cabinet. We just loosen that one nut and pull the rod out that attaches to the drain enough to pull the stopper out. We use a hanger at this point if the hair is deeper down the drain and create a hook. The job is complete after cleaning it out, and replacing the stopper and rod assembly. I bet there is a You Tube video on this precedure? I would allways do a paper towel test after this by running water and having a paper towel in place below to make sure no leaks are present after the repair.I would also say drain cleaners can be dangerous and caustic so be careful if going that route. We see hair causing most problems unless your bald like me?

      Reply
  348. David Parker on

    Anthony,

    The pipes are probably moaning from the pressure reducing valve. The valve protecs the home from extreme pressures. A failed valve can make this noise on both the hot and cold side. I would have it checked out because you don't want to much pressure in the house and the noise can be a nusiance.

    Dave

    Reply
  349. David Parker on

    Natalie,

    You could have a few different issues going on? I would first of all want to make sure the drains at the sink are working? I would also make sure the strainer at the bottom of the dishwasher is clean. If both those items are clear and free you need to make sure the drain hose is not kinked and is looped up high under the cabinet before it ties into the drain to prevent a back siphon. The hose could also have food waste stuck in it creating a partial or full clogg. If all these items have been checked you may want an appliance man for repair if it's worth repairing. I would say if it's got some age on it put the money in a new one instead of repairing an item like the dishwasher pump which could be costly?

    Dave

    Reply
  350. Natalie on

    Hi Dave,

    My dishwasher isn't draining all the way. What should I do to get it to drain? Do I need to replace it? Is this a dishwasher problem or something wrong with my plumbing overall? Advice, please!

    Reply
  351. David Parker on

    Tina,

    Are you on a Well System? if so it could be the hot water tank anode rod failure and a bacteria issue. The hose that comes from the dishwasher and connects to the garbage disposal drain needs to be looped up high under the cabinet as well. I am leaning towards the water heater because of the stench in the other sink. The other things that come into play are the venting system or food and scum buildup in the lines. We could address this with freindly bacteria products.

    Dave

    Reply
  352. james davidson on

    My water heater pilot light went out. I noticed water in bottom of tank, i.e. a leak. A plumber told me gas and direct ventr were most expensive; w/o looking at installation ! Any difference in cost of waters heaters, direct vent vs other? Jim D

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      James,

      The heater sounds like it has an internal leak causing the outage. The year of the heater can usually be identified by the first few serial numbers. The direct vented heaters that penetrate the wall sideways with the flue are more expensive for sure. The heater cost more because the way it vents. The heater brings air in from the outside for proper combustion and exhausts through the same penetration. I would go tankless if it fits your budget and you plan on living there a while? I would go back with the same heater that's currently installed for ease of installation if your trying to keep costs down? We cannot install a standard heater in a direct vented hole it would have to go through the roof.

      Dave

      Reply
  353. Tina on

    Hi Dave,
    Every so often, usually after running the dishwasher, there is a smell like sewer coming from the sink area. I also seem to get that same smell from our upstairs bathroom as well. It's not all the time, but when it happens, it's horrible! What would cause this and what can I do?
    Thank you!

    Reply
    • ER Plumbing on

      Tina,

      Are you on a Well System? if so it could be the hot water tank anode rod failure and a bacteria issue. The hose that comes from the dishwasher and connects to the garbage disposal drain needs to be looped up high under the cabinet as well. I am leaning towards the water heater because of the stench in the other sink. The other things that come into play are the venting system or food and scum buildup in the lines. We could address this with friendly bacteria products.

      Dave

      Reply
  354. Kyle on

    What if it is leaking around the supply valve and tubes? Can I fix that myself, or should I have someone come out and look at it?

    Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kyle,

      That's a comfort issue! I would always hire a professional when dealing with water. We get most of our weekend calls from homeowners trying to solve issues themselves. We are always here if you do run into problems!

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Kyle,

      It sounds as if the toilet will need to be pulled up and a new wax ring installed. I would first make sure nothing is leaking around the supply valve and tubes? The tank to bowl nuts and washers should be checked as well.

      Dave

      Reply
    • David Parker on

      Bonnie,
      The water heater is one of the most important fixtures in the house so it's great you're even asking. I would have your water heater drained at least once a year to help remove the sediment that builds up if your anode rod fails. I would have a professional out every three years for a full service. We do a lot of internal cleaning and external checks for gas pipe and flue leaks.

      Thanks,
      Dave

      Reply
      • Bonnie on

        Thanks, Dave. But how do I drain it? Do I cut the power off? Do I shut the gas off? Is it safe to do this on my own?

        Reply
        • David Parker on

          Bonnie,
          Let's start with an electric heater. The breaker panel will need to be shut off to perform this task because we don't want to burn out the elements. The hose will need to be hooked up at the bottom of the heater and ran to a drain or outside. The valve can be turned off at the top of the heater and the relief valve on the heater will need to be opened so the heater will drain. We can do the same thing with a gas heater by turning the gas off but you will have to relight the heater after completion. The drain valve can then be closed after the heater is drained and the shut off's on top of the heater cut back on. I also want to mention to let the air out of the faucets as your filling it back up until no more air is present. We are now ready to turn the power back on at the panel and relight the heater if it's gas?

          Reply
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